Il Fragrance Delecto - The Scented Mask of Kilian Hennessy

by Marian Bendeth, 22 May 2008

Image:Marian Bendeth

Not unlike his family namesake, Killian Hennessy is Cognac-smooth in temperament and possesses a noble air of composed authority. His roots in the fragrance industry were harvested through years of associations with illustrious perfumers such as: Alberto Morillas, Jacques Cavallier and his partners-in-olfactory-crime, Calice Asancheyev-Becker and Sidonie Lancesseur. He has also formulated creations with venerable perfume houses such as the towerful Christian Dior, the creative turrets of Giorgio Armani and darkened cellars of Alexander McQueen (think Kingdom)!.

Many have called Hennessy’s countenance “Byronic”. After meeting him in person I could understand the analogy but I have another take. Listening to his rapid-fire replies in a soft French dialect to my questions, Hennessy’s subtle uber-confidence is quickly apparent He sometimes pauses, steeped in thought, his elongated steepled fingertips and brooding dark eyes reveal a hero/anti-hero who has jumped off the pages of a Guy de Maupassant erotic novel. The lover/villain now resides in a modern-day Parisian pied-à-terre, but still embodies the French/Gallic genetics of early Nineteenth century clandestine escapades. One could actually imagine Hennessy darting into narrow cobbled alleyways for a rendez-vous with a subculture of Absinthe and Rum which are found in his scents. Make no mistake, his intensity and passion is no marketing ploy, his sincerity for the creation of perfumery is sacrosanct.

The By Kilian Products

Hennessy explains his coffret By Kilian “L’oeuvre noire” (Black Masterpiece) is predicated on the vision of Faust meets Beaudalaire imagery, a poetic come philosophical olfactory vision. Hennessy’s absolute and authentic passion for French literary giants and Greek mythology are carefully blended with the notion of wicked rap lyrics of a Fifty Cent or Lil’ Wayne who use the word “Henny” as the punch in their lyrics. This vision provides a dark moody stomping ground for those who like to “chill n the crib” and juxtaposes edgy accords for those with a penchant for dripping luxe.

If one prefers another take on the sniffing factor of the blends, think of delicious aperitifs and liqueurs of the finest quality. They are to be sipped, sniffed and savoured, never gulped. There is a revelation of complex accords that Becker and Siddonie create that twist and turn in directions that are enlightening and provocative.They reflect distinctive depths and perceptions not obvious when first testing on the skin and lead the nose down roads unpaved.

The three sets of duo scents have their own headings and subtitles with disturbing and alluring names that reflect a purism of French romanticism meets the netherworld of abstract accords.

For complete breakdowns of the perfumes, check out the By Kilian website:

The Ingenues:

Love by Kilian - Don’t be shy (Floral/Oriental)
Perfumer: Calice Asancheyev-Becker
Think of an abstract fluffy cloud of marshmallow, haloed by simmering neroli, Sambac jasmine, rose, spiky Iris with smooth dusky undertones of warm vanilla and musk.

Beyond Love by Kilian - prohibited (Floral)
Perfumer: Calice Asancheyev-Becker
A dripping tuberose shadowed by gardenia and paler orange blossom petals.

The Parisian Orgies:

Liaisons Dangereuses by Kilian t- ypical me (Floral)
Perfumer: Calice Asancheyev-Becker
Inspired by luscious Damson plums, rich, sweet and erotic lying on a satin chaise lounge of geranium, sugary peach, petals of Damascus Rose, playful Ambrette seeds and hot cinnamon sitting on a satin pillow of sandalwood, animaliic musk and lip-whetting vanilla.

Cruel Intentions by Kilain - tempt me (Woods)
Perfumer: Sidonie Lancesseur
A quixotic splash of Bergamot , demure Rose Centifolia, papery Papyrus hovering above erotic Oud wood, sweaty Guaicwood and dirty Vetiver.

The Artificial Paradises:

A Taste of Heaven by Kilian - absinthe verte
Perfumer: Calice Asancheyev-Becker
An olfactory oxymoron of lavender meets absinthe, green-on-green with swirls of Turkish rose, warm orange blossom, dry patchouli and earthy oak moss.

Straight to Heaven by Kilian - white cristal
Perfumer: Sidonie Lancesseur
Hot spicy rum suctioned through a fat metallic hollow cylinder of patchouli notes, cedar, and tangy Brazilian rosewood.

The visuals of By Kilian are quite extraordinary in texture and opulence. Looking more like an artisan’s design creation in a billionaire’s penthouse than just a mere flacon, the scents are encased in a midnight-black silk-lined, black lacquered cognac tumblers and calligraphed boxes. Each case comes with its own lock and key avec French tassel (a talisman to ward off all evil), for the secrets one likes to keep hidden away.

All above available in 1.7 refillable spray and 34 fl oz refillable bottle

50ml/1.7 fl.oz refillable bottle: $ 225.00
50ml/1.7 fl. oz refill $ 95.00
1 Litre/34 fl.oz fountain $ 2,500.

By Kilian candles have a protective shield engraved which protects under the Fallen Angel in a protective Greek motif.

The Interview

I met with the enigmatic Hennessy in Toronto, to get to the root of his new extended journey in perfumery and his culminated views and disseminations on the industry:

MB: There is an obvious black and white theme to femininity, masculinity, romance and sexuality to your scents. Does an ingenue theme denote naivety or the ultimate artisan’s muse for you? Or Straight to Heaven with White Cristal, is that your interpretation of the dark side of humanity? Are these names and subtitles (and oh Kilian, why the subtitles???) autobiographical?

KH: Yes of course! Partly because it reflects you I am…partly because it is what I believe: human beings are complex beings that carry within themselves “tradition” and “revolution” and want both at the same time! And it is this tension, this duality that I am trying to express.

Each of my 3 themes are composed by 2 fragrances that are the black & white sides of a coin or the soft & hard sides of any personality. Should you want to choose to just have a Taste of Heaven or go straight to it! …Should you be tempted by just Dangerous Liaisons or by Cruel Intentions….What should you be willing to do for love? or would you be ready to go beyond?. Always the choice, but you are not always obliged to be the same one all the time. Maybe it is just a play, an act…a way to become someone else for a while.

And the subtitles are essential in that sense because they narrow down the story I want to tell…. They are also what bring the modernity! Liaisons Dangereuses could sound a bit historical (reference to the 19th century book by Choderlos de Laclos) without Typical Me…. Love could sound a bit naïve and boring without Don’t Be Shy.

The subtitles ARE the hip hop humour….they are the modernity of the brand!

MB: When you left the corporate world of fragrance, what differences were you absolutely resolute and bent on making and were foremost in your mind when developing the By Kilian scents?

KH: I was determined on showing that Haute Couture fragrances with a real “parti pris”, fragrances with no limit in price; fragrances with a soul, fragrances that would open a new olfactive territory that would make a difference and would be perceived as such by the customer.

I was also determined in re-creating a perfume (and I mean not only the scent but also everything around it) the way my predecessors used to make it in the 19th or 1st half of the 20th century: a global creation! A creation combining the Art of Fragrance with the Art of Glass and with names that would say actually something....not something about what the scent is composed with, but rather the emotion the scent should provoke.

I was determined in assigning, giving to my fragrances almost a political ending, a political finality (the way "politis" meant for Ancient Greeks.....). A great perfume is a global creation designed to please the spirit as well as the senses. Perfume is like a messenger who opens the doors to the dream world. A perfume worthy of the name is more than just a beautiful harmony that appeal to the senses. It goes further… And it is this attribute that has given perfume its mythical force throughout the ages, because it reflects the invisible, like Art does!

Consequently a great perfume must reflect its time, its era! In other words, reveal the sensitivity of a society for which it acts as an echo!

An authentic creation must be more than a pale imitation of tried and models from the past. That would be only sterile plagiarism! It would be equally dangerous to let the perfume industry become a producer of utilitarian odours, with no poetry!

There is a need for TRUE perfumes with a fragrance and a soul!!!!!

MB: Can you explain the correlation between the written word or music such as hard-core hip hop lyrics in imagery and your style of blends?

KH: No correlation at all with the scent. My scents are a creation on their own. The humoristic rap feeling of the names has another reason and meaning.

The reason: to bring modernity to my creation. The meaning: I believe rappers are the new poets. THEY are the reflection of our society.

But this would be too long to express here....

MB: Would you call yourself an aesthete? A precisionist? If so, how have these traits invaded and assisted your choices with your new company?

KH: Oh yes!!! To the point where it is difficult for my family because they also have to be seeking for this aesthetic!!! To be totally honest, I do not understand how people cannot be seeking for precision and aesthetic in everything….it makes life so much more beautiful!!!!!!

MB: Who is your customer? How do you see the blends and names of your scents affecting the customer’s view of themselves?

KH: I have no idea who is my customer…and I don’t want to know…although my curiosity craves for it!

MB: Are there any particular notes or blends in your coffret that excite you the most? Why?

KH: Yes I realised that I have a signature …almost in all my scents: vanilla and animalistic notes! Sexy amber!

MB: For you, is fragrance a force of habit? A lifestyle choice? A reflection of one’s imagination or self esteem? Or a revelation of one’s apparent taste and good breeding?

KH: All of them!!!!

MB: Which vintage fragrance in your opinion should last for an eternity and always be maintained as an original formulation with the original materials?

KH: Feminite du Bois by Shiseido

MB: I find it odd that you chose Feminite du Bois..an obvious Cedarwood characteristic, when your scents have an Amber and Vanilla/Animalic accord. This scent is so different from yours!

KH: Yes and No ….. Féminité du bois is a combination of Liaisons Dangereuses (the fruity rose part) and White Cristal (the woody).

MB: What has surprised you the most since the launch of By Kilian fragrances? Is there a anecdote that you can share?

KH: The reaction of people to my fragrances…the way they leave with it…the way they understood them…..what they bring to their life.

One day, during a Personal Appearance at Bergdorf Goodman, a young woman came to me and asked me if I was Kilian? When I said I was, she told me that she bought “Straight to heaven: white crystal” two weeks ago and that each time she wears it, something beautiful happens in her life…. It cannot get better than that.

MB: If your fragrances are an extension of something innate within your psyche, what exactly would that be? And what direction do you see it traveling to for the future?

KH: Oh my god….this one is a novel on its own!!!!!

MB: If you could compare your scents and flacons to a particular Artist, who would that be?

KH: It would be too presumptuous to answer this question myself….even though I know who I would LOVE to be compared to!!!!

Artiste and Perfume provocateur/voyeur, Kilian Hennessy’s By Kilian fragrances smell of passion and beyond.

About the author

Marian Bendeth is a Global Fragrance Expert based out of Toronto, Canada. SixthSen@aol.com

All articles by Marian Bendeth

Categories: By Kilian