Fragrance Reviews by ubuandibeme

Ahhhh, the quirky sweet and powdery note of violet...I adore this version, and it is very appropriate for the cooler midwestern Autumn weather! Decidedly feminine, smelling reminiscent of Carons' champagne bath fragrance. You know, these "splash" series frags from MJ are meant to be light. Refreshing. Not like a perfume or extrait. They softly impart a hint of fragrance, and I for one am glad to own a few! Thumbs up, for achieving what it was created to achieve.

Foetidus is exactly correct; Mecheri's is a softer, gentler patchouli. Which is precisely why I love it! I'm ecstatic to have found a patchouli that leans more to the feminine. A bit less raw, yet still dry and earthy - slightly sweet. Thankfully, there were no florals added to this elixir, now Patchoulissime can play together with a slough of floral fragrances! If you are a 'patchouli devotee', this one may disappoint. For some men, this one may be too mild. For me, this patchouli is just right! Full bottle on it's way ~ two thumbs up!

Damascena is a pretty and extremely feminine rose scent. It is fruited and tinged with spice. What I really like about the Keiko Mecheri range of fragrances is they are not sugary sweet, yet they are sweeter than say Annick Goutal's creations. For some odd reason, the roses in Damascena remind me of the mild rose notes within Rive Gauche by YSL. This perfume exudes an aire of class, but youthfulness too. Not your grandmother's rose ~ very wearable!

Venturing outside my flowery 'comfort zone', I've found that Sanguine is quite pleasant. Citrus and musk are not at the top of my wish list, but in this blend they are delicate and refreshing. Applied to the skin, musk dominates and the citrus fades too quickly. When applied to clothing, Sanguine's soapy fresh blood orange citrus lasts and lasts! I did say soapy. The citrus here is extremely clean, and bright, yet it remains subdued and lives in harmony with the musky base. Well balanced and user friendly, I'd recommend trying this for an easygoing change of pace.

Notes from Luckyscent website: Jasmine, Peony, Pitaya, White Rose, Amber, Myrrh, Patchouli & Sandalwood.

Though not listed, the opening of Marcadam comes off as a blast of licorice! I adore anise/licorice notes in my fragrance and this one not only suprises, but satisfies! My only complaint is the topnotes fade much too quickly. After that attention getter, the flowers burst forth in a creamy bouquet, drying down to an ambery sandalwood base. This fragrance ends up on my skin almost exactly like Casmir by Chopard. Rich, cozy & classy.

Mint, mint and more mint. Then a bit of minted jasmine. Then, a little more mint.

This was my JM White Jasmine & Mint experience. As a fragrance note, I don't personally enjoy mint. I think this is why many Creed's have been off putting for me, as many of them seem to contain that blasted herb. Bulgari's Au The' Verte also seems to possess the dreaded mint - but for some reason the Bulgari is likeable. Well, at least the jasmine here is beautiful. It is dry, which is to say "not sweet", and very fresh smelling. All prejudices aside, this is a unique and lovely combination. Close wearing with decent staying power. Easily unisex, I actually might prefer this one on a man.

Fleur de Liane is a vibrant green patchouli, fern-like and verdant! I detect a floral heart, bright in character and somewhat similar to lily of the valley yet non-descript. Slightly acquatic as well. Patchouli in the base for sure! In fact, the patchouli outlives the green essence of this edt by a mile. At first I thought it boring, but after wearing it for the day it leaves me feeling refreshed as I catch a whiff every now and again. Thumbs up, but still not completely certain if it's full bottle worthy.

What an interesting creature! First impression: This must be a cross between Tabac Blond and Shalimar.
Well, if there's going to be any crossbreeding, those are two of the finest. Olive Flowers is an 'oriental perfume essence' that begins with a bit of an "off" note, for me at least. It comes across as cinnamon, but paired with oppoponox, very different. As it dries down, I'm enjoying it soooooo much better! It is deeply rich and leathery, like Ernest Daltroff's 1919 creation (Tabac Blond) yet it possess a smooth and ambery warmth akin to Jacques Guerlain's 1925 treasure (Shalimar). It's been so long since I've sniffed a "new" frag that has such substance, Olive Flowers is exciting, gutsy, dramatic & mysterious.

Bond No.9 has completely copied:

Christian Dior's Dolce Vita
Shiseido's Feminite du Bois
Serge Luten's Bois de Violette

Mostly, Dolce Vita - as this Andy Warhol Lexington Ave. favors the sweet in the spectrum of sweet/fruity/woods.
It is nice, but I can only give it a neutral as it is a clone ~ several times over.

This is a fairly unique take on citrus! I adore the grapefruit/floral blend here because the grapefruit remains the star, even as the rest of this bright, fruity composition reveals itself! As it wears on my skin, I'm reminded of Ralph Lauren's Pure Turquoise - I believe it's due to the patchouli mixed with brighter topnotes...mmm it's good. Funny too, how the grapefruit notes are described as 'acidulous', because there is a definite acidic tone, which adds to the realistic impression of the grapefruit. For a lighter fragrance, the lasting power of AAPamplelune is very good, and somewhat unexpected. I'm not sure if I'd buy the full sized bottle, but I do have a mini that suits my citrus needs just fine.

Odd. I do detect the smell of cold cream...you know, the old fashioned kind that smells of lanolin and rosewater. Plasticky and synthetic for sure. Sorry, I just cannot wrap my senses around this frag.

Gave this one an obligatory sniff at the department store counter...it smells like Juicy Couture's original fragrance. My daughter immediately declared it "a complete Juicy rip-off", so there you have it.

KM's Loukhoum smells like almonds dipped in rosewater then rolled in confectioners sugar! There is a powdery sweetness that rests better on the skin than Montale's Sweet Oriental Dream - which like Trebor says, is toooooooo sweet! Mecheri's Loukhoum is more like Annick Goutal's Vanille Exquise to the 10th power, or at least to my nose! I love that this parfum possesses the warmth and closeness of a vanilla based fragrance without coming across as a traditional vanilla. Upon repeated sniffing & snorfling of my wrist, there is also an association in my memory of the original formulation of Heaven Sent. I think it's the powderiness and touch of rose. This is undoubtedly a winner, and one of the very best blind buys I've ever made!

Bought this blindly, due to Quarry's review, and I'm here to say ~ she's right on the money! I'm quite finicky about the scent of roses. Paris by YSL was a longtime favorite, but now seems a bit dated. Guerlain's With Love is easy to wear, especially nice too, that it is an eau de toilette. Extremely polite, not cloying whatsoever. Grab some now, while you still can!

Mikeperez23 has written my thoughts on Serge Noire very accurately! I will add to his review, that SN reminds me of how the final crackling embers of a bonfire smell, and for all the notes of smoke, spices, and honeyed woods it possesses a remarkable balance!

"This smells familiar" was the first thought in my mind after sampling Calvin Klein's newest offering. The opening of Secret Obsession is fruited with the scent of plums. Now, from my own personal olfactory experience, many times notes of plum, peach and apricot smell very much alike to me. In this case, SO's plummy top note smells like a twin to the note of apricot found in Daim Blond by Serge Lutens. After observing the fruit, some flowers burst forth. The floral heart of this blend is very pretty. It is gentle and well blended. In fact, I'd say it's a stunning cool weather blend of jasmine, orange flower and tuberose. Secret Obsession's base also suprises me. It is very much like Shiseido's Feminite du Bois, and also the rich woods in the 'bois series' of Serge Luten's range. I think it's alluring and memorable. Since I already own Daim Blond and Feminite du Bois, I will hold off on purchasing SO until my supply of those two dwindles. For those of you who enjoy the Lutens frags, but haven't yet purchased them, I'd say hold off on doing so until you try this perfume. It is not just a 'substitute' - it is completely comparable! Absolutely bottle worthy, two thumbs way up!

This perfume is strong! Imagine the lovely, sheer Narciso Rodriguez for Her reaching puberty. DY is like a full grown, full blown NRfH! This stuff does have a sort of 80's vibe, as it is extremely potent. The waterfloral opening is quickly overrun by the Rose/Wood/Patchouli trio - which also gives off hints of Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has A Gun. The musk here makes everything stick, and let me tell you, it holds on forever! A bit overbearing for my senses...kind of like a wicked step-mother. The best part of this scent is the bottle. It is very attractive and accurately reflects this jewelry designers' trademark style. I'm 50/50 on this one. Be forewarned: this perfume could very easily take over the wearer.

Viva La Juicy! is a nice follow-up (timed well too) to the original Juicy Couture fragrance. This company really knows how to hit their target market, which by my estimation is the 18-25 year old girly crowd. Overall this one's a fruity floral with gourmand undertones. I'd call it a " gourmet bouquet "! Here are the listed notes:

Top - Wild Berries & Mandarin
Middle - Honeysuckle, Gardenia, Jasmine
Base - Amber, Caramel, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Praline

The fruited topnotes are pretty non-descript, other than the fact they do come across juicy. As far as the flowers, I get the Jasmine note as the most prominent. It smells alot like the jasmine in the original Coach fragrance, bright and somewhat vibrant. The basenotes are what gives this juice it's flavor ~ caramel, vanilla and praline add just the right comforting touch to the lively fruits and flowers ~ warmth and depth provided by Amber and Sandalwood. I also adore the grafitti style script on the packaging, it feels spontaneous and fun! I'd say give it a try.

The reviews posted here, of Un Jardin Apres La Mousson, are among the most thoughtful and accurate I've read! My first impression of fragrance notes within UJALM is salted water, assorted greens - maybe even some linden - pepper, cardamom, and melon. It is sheer in character, like the others in the Hermes Jardin series, and dry too. Can a fragrance be dry and fresh simultaneously? If so, UJALM fits that description. It is interesting to smell notes that seemingly oppose one another, working together in harmony. For example, an acquatic note taking on a dry feeling. Or, juicy melon combined with pepper. That is the "fire & ice" sort of tension that makes this fragrance captivating. To my nose, this elixir is most intriguing! I'd call it a work of art.

Not Pleasures, not intense...more like 'watered down'! I just don't get this one.

Violet comes first to my nose, and wow, it's pretty! Perfectly sweetened by juicy ripe plums, I am reminded of the rich fruited notes of Christian Dior's Dolce Vita and also YSL's Yvresse(Champagne). The flowers, spices, grass, fruits, wood and leather are a symphony for the nose. Seamless and utter beauty...this is exactly how I'd expect a perfumers wife to smell!!! My favorite of the Malle label!

This is an interesting spicy floral! It's more of a spicy iris than anything else. The opening is spicy like the retro fragrance Tigress, at least from my memory. It quickly evolves into a powdery floral ~ iris ~ with hints of sandalwood and cinnamon in it's base. I'd also say it leans more to the feminine, but some imaginitive risk taking fellows could pull this off as well! Nice for cool weather wear. Distinctive.

Creativity abounds! This fun gourmand from Neil Morris represents the smells of an outdoor cafe'. Beside the sweets and dark roasted coffee, there is the smell of late summer heat and touch of greenery. The later reminiscent of Ralph Lauren's Safari! I'm with Nukapai, don't think it's in for regular wear, but it is an enjoyable olfactory delight!

VERY FINE! The previous reviewers in this forum have my complete agreement! Angelique Noire is heavenly, I even detect traces of it 12 hours after application. Also, not listed but I swear it's in there...just a touch of tonka, more noteably at the very end of AN's lifespan. Love the balance here, between the bright bergamot/powdery sweet angelica/deep vanilla-tonka notes Fresh, sexy, mouthwateringly sweet, and most definitely on my wish list!

It is with extreme sadness I type this commentary, as my hope for this jasmine has been crushed. I adore indolic florals. Never have they come to my nose smelling like "mothballs", that is, until now. Jasmin 17 begins sweetly, and similarly to Diptyque's Olene. Within only minutes after spritzing, starts to give off that mothball/ashtray sort of smell. The prettiest components of this juice vanish too soon, leaving the mothball/ashtray odor to morph into it's final repugnance: the smell of gingivitis. I know, it's not nice, but it's true. The smell of unhealthy (almost rotting) gum tissue. It permeates. I have never smelled a perfume quite like this one.

Watery and weak, definitely not worth the pricetag. For a mild fragrance, there are sooooo many others to choose from that won't run you broke!

The first time I sampled this fragrance I thought, "hmmm, I bet Vibert would like this one." Then, lo and behold, I find his review with a thumbs up ~ how funny! The opening for me was kind of medicinal. Looking through the listed notes within this blend, the specific offender eludes me. Well, fortunately those topnotes fade rather quickly, and we are onto better things! The jasmine here is weak. Bummer, because I adore jasmine. The nicest part is the base, which reminds me of Belle en Rykiel by Sonia Rykiel. Rich, but not cloying. Complex yet easy to wear. I'm half & half on this one. Once the first 20 minutes pass, I'm enjoying it, sort of.

I'm pretty much loving this perfume! Let me confess, notes of incense have never really been my sort of thing. Usually I find incense frags either 'churchy' or 'musty/dusty', making me feel solemn and sneezy. In Juozas' blend, the incense is top-loaded with jasmine (one of my faves) creating a brighter character overall. The basenotes are luxurious heavy hitters, giving staying power and overall balanced longevity. This is clearly a winning scent, for men and women alike. Also, this is one fragrance you won't smell on every Jack or Jill who passes by, very unique!

A fruity floral that smells acquatic/lactonic (say that 3 times fast!). I would never know there is any vanilla in this blend, I really cannot detect it. A beautifully balanced feminine scent, with a definite De la Renta feel! The name is absolutely appropriate, as this perfume conjures images of elegant gowns sewn of the finest fabrics accented by perfect ruffles & pleats. I will have to get at least a small vial of So de la Renta to have on hand should I need to feel especially pretty!

Such inconsistant comments here. Be forewarned, I'm going to add to the confusion.
For me, the florals in Cinema are light and powdery, when combined with the predominant vanilla base, creates a fragrance almost identical to Kenzo Amour. "Almost", because Cinema is slightly sweeter. It is close wearing and comforting to my senses. If I didn't already own Kenzo Amour I'd purchase this in a heartbeat! Love the bottle too.

Elegant, chic and modern ~ this white floral/patchouli combo is winning in every way! For starters, the white ribbed bottle with gold accenting is stunning. It is also a great vessel in which to preserve the integrity of this juice while giving us the option to display the bottle as a work of art. This perfume contains all the glamorous flowers too ~ rose, peony, jasmine, along with ambrette seed and the perfect amount of patchouli. For those discriminate in sillage and longevity of their fragrance, I'd say Ford has attained perfection there as well. I'm secretly hoping this one will remain under wraps for awhile, so I can be the head turning one smelling especially fabulous!

Acquatic fragrances are not usually appealing to my senses, but this Rain scent by MJ is wearable and pleasant. It is very light, but not lacking. There are certain occasions when I don't want my fragrance to be noticed...such as when closely holding a newborn baby, or visiting a sick friend. It is those times when the splash series comes in handy! As far as the actual "Rain" smell, well, it is acquatic with notes of lightly powdered greens - delightfully opened with the help of some citrus, which fades almost immediately. Fresh, but not perfumey, and not a flower to be detected. For me, this eau fraiche fills a vacancy in my wardrobe perfectly!

Well, I adore Antonia's Flowers signature scent edp and also Tiempe Passant edp, so I had high hopes for this beautifully named scent. Sorry to say my hopes were shattered. Sogni del Mare is a citrus/bergamot/seawater fresh eau de cologne that truly smells like my husbands deodorant...you know, the one that's called "fresh scent". Absolutely un-original in the most dull and predictable way. Don't get me wrong, this scent won't offend anyone. There's just no reason to use it. Unremarkable.

The sweetest and most flowery of the Tom Ford collection, this orange blossom is fantastic! That tiny little flower opens this frag with a bang, and then a nice little suprise of citrusy lemon joins in for a fresh & bright white floral treat! It gives me the impression of Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien being infused with neroli ~ completely beautiful! Did I mention it is sweet? Even so, it isn't a bit cloying IMO! Excellent sillage and longevity for a citrus/floral. I highly recommend trying this little gem.

Candied violets and patchouli? Yep, that's what you'll get with Tom Ford's Purple Patchouli! Must say that I love it though, and find the patchouli base to be just the right potency.

Mikeperez23 has written accurately about Tobacco Vanille! When I first sniffed this perfume, my nose was highly impressed by the authentic tobacco notes. Tobacco marries well with vanilla too, so this combo is an easy winner. I must add though, that in preparing to 'share' some of this frag, about 2ml spilled onto my countertop. Because of this mishap, I got a clear cut, no holds barred whiff of this stuff and was overwhelmed by the smell of cloves! Now, when I sniff TV I can only detect cloves...For a boozy tobacco vanilla frag I would insist upon trying Guerlain's Spirituese Double Vanille ~ IMO it surpasses Tom Ford's version, just a bit!

Smokey tea with a slice of lemon...then settling into a smokey, spiced wood. Very comforting, dry and warm. For me, it leans toward the masculine, although it is completely wearable by either gender.

Wow, this is a very different gardenia! The opening is camphorous, like the topnote with that same effect in Tuberose Criminelle by Serge Lutens. Heavy on the indoles, Velvet Gardenia is not a sweet or green girly flower, it is definitely wearable by a man. One could acquire a taste for the close wearing raw floral component in this juice, as it is a unique representation of gardenia. As it warms on the skin, the slightest tinge of sweetness appears, but I would never think of classifying it as 'sweet'. Also, it is creamy. Maybe that's where the velvet part comes into play. The drydown brings another Lutens association: Sarrisins. I don't get any cheesy note whatsoever, nor any plastic. But then again, I am a fan of indolic white florals! My advice is to give this one a fair shake, I love it for it's bold & different portrayal of the gardenia flower.

Antonia's Flowers is a sleepy little niche house that puts forth some gorgeous floral frags, but sadly, this one is not one of my faves from them. The opening is sharp, almost pure rubbing alcohol, but fades fast into a clean and soapy scent. It smells like a fabric softener dryer sheet! This reminds me of a fragrance Avon used to make years ago called Clean Cotton in their comfort scent line...in fact, it smells VERY much like Clean Cotton! If I concentrate hard, I do smell the rose here. With the combination of sage, cedar and vetiver in the base, I feel it would be best highlighted as a masculine floral. As my sample wears on, I find myself tiring of this scent...

Another lively fresh floral from Antonia's Flowers! I adore the perfumes of this house! The EDP opens with a quick burst of grapefruit, slightly soapy, clean. As the topnotes fade, my nose detects sweet pea and peony flowers. This gorgeous juice rests upon my wrist sweetening as it ages, and projecting well in spite of it's delicate bouquet. The sillage and longevity is amazing. My personal feeling is that it shares a bit of character with Clinique's Happy ~ particularly in the drydown. I would also hold this one well above Lauder's Beyond Paradise, if you like your frags fresh, clean and bright. Difficult to find, but well worth the search!

I've found no satisfaction in the limited edition spin-offs of the stunning original Opium. Some things are better left alone, like the Mona Lisa, how could it ever be improved upon? Impossible. It is what it is...leave the masterpiece as it was created!

Not gardenia. "Candied tuberose" is more likely to describe this super sweet Goutal. I almost bought this one unsniffed, and was relieved after having the opportunity to sample it first. Although I adore sweet frags, this one just doesn't move me...

This heady perfume, of the 'purple patchouli' persuasion, is excellent! I love the sparkling manner in which bergamot opens this stunner! Given it's name, the main flower here should be iris...but my nose keeps getting rose instead? Not a bother though, this rose is extremely pretty. A dry, almost peppery-chypre-ish rose...if that's possible! Love the rich basenotes too, patchouli, tonka and styrax. Perfect for the cool fall days right around the corner. Oh yeah, this one won't break your budget either. A winner in every way.

From the beginning, notes of lemon, bergamot and freesia burst forth! Yes, it does remind me of opening the door and walking into a florist's shop! Fresh, bright and a touch soapy - in a good way! I don't detect any anise here, as others have mentioned. The drying phase brings the most lovely muguet fragrance I've ever smelled...not too sweet, definitely not cloying...the green notes presented here are along the lines of Sheldrake's greens in his wonderful floral creation (for Serge Lutens) A La Nuit. The tenderness of Antonia's Flowers reminds me too of L'Artisan's La Chasse Aux Papillons, extremely polite in it's floral presence. I cannot imagine this scent offending anyone...even those who don't love flowery fragrances! In the category of "fresh/floral" this one ranks right at the top!

I never actively seek citrus type scents...citrus top notes seem prominent in too many frags, I don't usually find anything special about them...usually! Until now. Comme des Garcons has created an AMAZINGLY good citrus frag here! I clearly smell grapefruit, right from the opening. Juice from the pulp, oils from the peel, lively & bright - absolutely fresh! Appropriately named, it is energizing too! It evolves into tangy brightness, with delicate florals and tinge of greens to adhere to the skin. I am enamored with this citrus, and feel a purchase coming on!!!

Found notes listed as:

Top: Green Tangerine
Middle: Cardamom, Pepper, Nutmeg
Base: Leather, Musk, Amber

I regularly wear Serge Lutens' Daim Blond - which I classify as a slightly fruity/soft suede fragrance.
Histoire d'Eau by Maubboussin is incredibly similar! The leather note is soft and subtly infused with gentle spices. Delicately sweet. This can also be found for purchase on-line at about 1/5th the cost of a Lutens...I definitely recommend this sleeper!

A wintertime wonder! Warm, rich, mouth-watering, comforting and compelling - simultaneously! What a gorgeous blend, slightly reminiscent of the deep fermented fruits found in Badgley Mischka, or even Frapin's fragrance...a slight vanilla here, and the base comes across with a touch of cedar, creating an aromatic finish. Could easily be unisex.

From the EDP ~ An extremely sweet version of linden...reminiscent of Redken's Pique from the 80's. Not my sort of fragrance, but for sweet linden lovers ~ this one would quench your desire!

Osmoz lists the notes of Vol de Nuit Evasion as:

Top: Rose, Peach
Heart: Jasmine, Iris
Base: Vanilla, Amber, Precious Woods

From the first drop on my wrist, rose is the most prominent note in this blend ~ and it's spicy! Almost like a clove or carnation character to it...balanced by peach, just a touch, and it's not very sweet. More subtle, and dry. The jasmine and iris peek through, but the rose never leaves center stage. The drydown comes off a bit generic, and slowly fades away...VdNE would make a nice introduction fragrance to someone just getting into the world of perfumes, and may also be a "safe" gift to give. I'm giving a thumbs up because I think it is pleasing in general, but I won't be purchasing this one.

First off, I'd like to get it off my chest that I'm not a Guerlain-o-phile, Guerlain-a-holic, or fan of Guerlain frags in general...in fact, most offerings from this house that DO appeal to me are not the popular ones. Whew! Now THAT'S out of the way, let me tell you Chamade is an absolute masterpiece! Yep, the blend of notes here is sheer genius. Chamade's florals are singular, yet immediately form a bouquet, that evolves sweetly, with fluid motion. 'Balsamic notes' in the base just send me over the top for this juice! I am sampling the EDT version and find it possesses quite ample sillage and good longevity. After this, I may become a Guerlain lover after all!

In the same vein as Philosophy's Amazing Grace, or Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue, or even Coty's Wild Musk or Jovan's Musk! Clean & soft skin scent (musk), with a bit of sandalwood in the drydown...for the price, any of the 4 comparables listed above would be a better deal and give just as much satisfaction.

Impressive! I'm not usually one for re-working originals...especially when they're wonderful already...but I adore the addition of jasmine to this gorgeous blend! It works very well with the base of amber, vanilla and nutmeg. In fact, the original essence of Organza is still completely intact here. I have purchased a full bottle without hesitation!

Ava Luxe's Turkish Vanilla is creamy, nutty, milky, warmly spiced and definitely unisex! Reminds me alot of Fragonard's vanilla fragrance...it also lasts a long time! I can see myself using Turkish Vanilla to give a boost of sweetness to other scents. This is one I will love playing with!

I can only elaborate upon Vibert's eloquent commentary by adding that to my nose, this L'artisan is a true "lipstick rose" - even moreso than Malle's! It is absolutely adorable!

Pookerella's right, about the cotton candy! Really, sweet vanilla is all, pure and simple. Not a frag for me...I much prefer my vanilla deeper, drier or much more embellished!

My first impression of this fragrance is that it smells like a vanillic version of Victor & Rolf's Flowerbomb! After giving it some time to develop, it showed a more chypre side, giving a unisex edge to the blend, which I'll chalk up to it's dry version of patchouli! Strangely, I like it! I may (hmmmm, maybe) even buy a bottle...even though it looks a bit cheesy.

As far as vanilla's go, this one's so-so. What I really smell here is cinnamon with vanilla, and it's sweet, like those cinnamon red-hot candies. Giving a neutral because I can't really think of an occassion when I'd like to smell like this! (Kind of low on the wearability scale!)

This fragrance is without a doubt genetically related to YSL's Elle - released in the same year. The main focus of this fruity floral are notes of peony and jasmine...wearing on the skin as the shy little sister of Elle, who is a bit more bold and outspoken! I'd love to know the perfumer here ~ if I were a gambler, I'd put my money on the same nose/noses that are credited with creating Elle! Cinema Festival d'Ete is a great choice for a lighter type frag, close wearing and fresh!

This sensual fragrance begins in a very sweet, vanilla-ish manner ~ seeming at first a bit timid and fleeting...but just give LTBL a little time to mature on your skin and you'll be amazed at her tenacity. I could still clearly smell that gorgeous musk nearly 24 hours after application! It is soft, close wearing and stays fresh too. Comforting. Truly a polite and beautiful fragrance.

Well, purplebird7 and I are on the same page...bought this blindly...big mistake! The galbanum is short lived, morphing into a sickly sweet spicy scrubber. Wish I could have smelled the original...

I agree with Tovah in that Eclat d Arpege is along the lines of Scent of Peace and Light Blue... but the first association I made was Bvlgari's Omnia Crystalline. A transparent blend of flowers, wood and musk ~ light and refreshing. I adore Arpege, and this version comes accross very youthful and modern ~ extremely wearable!

I think Wordbird has put it best. To me, Kelly Caleche definitely smells like the inside of a used leather handbag that has picked up the scent of tissues, face powder, fruit gum, lipstick, and other assorted frivolities that may be carried by any woman with a purse! For a lighter, smoother leather fragrance my preference still runs toward Luten's Daim Blond. Worthy of a test spritz for sure!

I hate to be the party pooper here, but I'm not crazy about this Liu.
It does have prominent aldehydic notes, likening it to Chanel's No.5, however, it is completely void of any sweetness. This is by far, the driest floral I've encountered. To my nose, it is more like Wind Song by Prince Matchabelli ~ a musty smelling frag. The drydown leaves me smelling...er...uh...not so fresh.

A real grown up floral. All about the sillage - it's just right! I really get the lilies and peonies here too! Pleasures is the snowy floral perfection that Gucci's Envy Me (pink) and McClintock's Number 3 failed to attain. The balance from top to bottom is exquisite! For the many floral notes this fragrance contains it never comes off too sweet, too powdery or too dry. Lauder fans and foes should give this one a try, it's very wearable.

The way I understand it, this 1999 version of Lucien Lelong pour Femme was re-worked from the 1950's original...which I have never smelled. Notes listed for this bold floral-oriental are:

mandarin, bergamot, magnolia, lilac, fig
jasmine rose, tuberose, ylang ylang, iris
variety of orchids
sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, musk

Fully loaded with womanly glamour, this potion is powerful! I liken it's potency with that of Givenchy's Amarige or Dior's Poison. The orchid notes come across clearly, even though the rest of the bouquet is dominant. A bit "soapy" on my skin. I applaud this blend, but doubt if I would ever be excited to wear it.

My first thought upon sniffing Iris Poudre is "Wow, this smells just like Chanel's No.5!" After it settles, and the basenotes become more prominent, I agree 100% with Cedriceccentric who said: "If Chanel would have made a No.5 for men this is what it would have been like." I attribute the slightly masculine vibe to the tonka in the base - although it is quite obviously a unisex frag. A smooth, wearable aldehydic floral.

From the very first sniff, Iris Silver Mist is all about the iris. I grow irises, and they need regular thinning. When the rhizomes (or 'roots') are dug up, fresh from the damp rich soil ~ this is what ISM smells like! Incredible! Earthy, moist and a bit vegetal. Soon, the powdery facet of this frag kicks in, accompanied by sweet violet. I love the distinct evolution this scent possesses. As it settles, the iris, earth and violets are grounded in spicy woods that slowly ease...calming into a magnifiscent base, which retains the best of each note within it's composition. It is luminous. Iris Silver Mist is so very worthy of a sampling...if not the whole bottle!

Vanille Exquise is the loveliest amber vanilla I've smelled! So very "Shalimarish" ~ which is exactly what makes it sophisticated. At first, the vanilla does seem a bit thin (as far as vanillas go) but after a short time, the subtle amber notes make themselves known, warming on the skin, and combining exquisitely with the vanille! It does wear close to the skin ~ and it's heavenly!

Very different...for my nose I perceive a green, lemony rose. It also smells wet. Strangely, it took a few wearings for me to decide that I like it...but it's just not a frag for me.

This lush floral is full bodied and potent! At first it's all fruity/floral madness, but when the roses kick in ~ the rest of the flowers in this bouquet perk up! The mid section of this lovely scent is making me think of Lauren's Romance. The florals here never give way; they hold my attention and then cleverly draw my nose into the decadent and rich base. The roses stay true and fresh, very womanly and gorgeous!

Pleasures Exotic is the fruity variation of the original. Since fruity notes are not among my most favorite, I'm still loving the original best. But, having said that, PE is one of the nicer spin offs I've experienced. The fruitiness is not too sweet (IMO), the florals and wooded base still shine through and hold true to their parent frag! I'll use my sample, but won't purchase a full bottle of this one. Oh yeah, my daughter gave my wrist a sniff and said, "...it smells like a hair product...".

A new scent from Estee Lauder that will surely appeal to the masses! This silky smooth fragrance is warm, sweetened amber in a creamy honeyed & peppery base that comes off as softly powdered musk...a skin scent for sure! It's almost got an addictive quality, compelling me to sniff and snorfle my arm where it's resting. (Hopefully, my husband will have the same reaction!) After a few years of pinkish-fruity-patchouli's, this scent is oh so welcome!

This blend of sweet spices and floral - AND vetiver - is magic! Not typical by any means. I must disagree with some of the previous comments ~ the anise and licorice notes are amazingly good. It comes off less sweet than Angel ~ not trying to be a 'clone' ~ and it's very wearable. What an ingenious blend! I've tried it several times now and grow to love it more with each application. This one is worth the full bottle. Which by the way is a treasure all it's own!

My husband does woodworking as a hobby, and this Chene is true to the fragrance of oak! Smells like oak boards being cut, sanded, etc. Original, authentic and attention getting. Nicely done!

Feminite du Bois with a healthy dose of soft musk! I actually liked this one better than 'fruits' & 'oriental' ~ still, my favorite in Luten's "Bois series" is Violette, but this one would suffice as a replacement - in a pinch.

3 parts Feminite du Bois, 1 part Arabie.

Purplebird7's got this one pegged! I would say it's 3 parts Feminite du Bois, 1 part Amber Sultan.

I'm with Sofresh on this one ~ FdB must be the biological mother of Lutens' entire "Bois series", they are virtually of the same genetics. For a dominantly woods fragrance, I was suprised how much I loved this one in the heat of summer! It's exquisite! I wish it were available for retail purchase here in the USA!

Poivre Samarcande can be summed up in three words:

Smooth
Peppery
Dry

I love it on my husband! It's an obvious JCE creation, blended with exquisite craftmanship. Mr. Ellena really knows when to pour it on and when to use only the lightest touch. Thumbs up!

I first tested Casmir awhile back, and I believe the bottle was "aged", and I didn't like it too well. After re-testing, I now own some of this warm & comforting scent! The 2 notes that stand forward are vanilla and sandalwood, coming off very unisex. The amber/vanilla/sandalwood/musk/patchouli base is quite rich. While inhaling the aroma of this well crafted blend, a fleeting memory of Coty's Emeraude tinged my thoughts. It's not exactly the same drydown, but something in it is very similar. Also coming to mind is NR for women. Considering the cheap price, you really can't go wrong if you like vanilla & sandalwood! Thumbs up for sure!

Truly a "skinscent", wearing extremely close to the body without noteable sillage. Nice for the beach or boat, but beyond that I don't see the point. Maybe if I layered it with the oil it would bloom better...

Olene is simply the most indolic frag I've ever experienced! Serge Lutens' A La Nuit is still my favorite, which just happens to be the perfect blend of indolic jasmine and touch of green for my taste, however this Olene is worthy too! Olene reminds me of the opening indolic phase of yet another Luten's - Sarrasins. Ink smell, for sure! (I guess some may think it more 'mothball' smelling, but not me.) Olene possesses a unique sweetness as well, which I personally find better suited to feminine wearers.
If you like 'em bold - fragrant white flowers, heavy on the indoles - this one's not to be missed! Thumbs way up!

I think this one is the orange bottle with the yellow cap...

At any rate, it is simply ~ Clinique's Happy.

Bright, fresh and youthful...but certainly not original.

F by Ferragamo begins with a blast of candy sweetness, then settles into a lactonic symphony ~ in the back of my throat! Fortunately, it fades rather quickly. The base is weak. It leaves a dusty, stale smell like a cocktail table that has sticky-sweet-drink rings stuck to it, and it hasn't been cleaned in weeks. This frag is touted as a floral, with notes of rose, jasmine, etc...I'm not getting it.

I cannot say it any better than JaimeB! To his eloquent review I can only add how perfectly the aniseed note is presented ~ breathtaking! A timeless masterpiece that any perfume lover should seek out, sniff, marvel and appreciate!

For me, Joy is initially very rosey, with a hint of jasmine. I really get an awesome civet tone from the pure parfum...exquisitely incorporated, only slightly fleshy/indolic, very, VERY nicely done! Presented with an almost soapy character, it is an exhuberantly gorgeous floral. Slightly dated, but absolutely a masterpiece!

Un Cedre is not pleasing to this Luten's fan. It opens WAY TOO SWEET ~ like the opening of MPG's Centaure, or Ted Lapidus in the grey bottle ~ actually makes me feel queazy. I don't get any tuberose or cedar wood. The drydown is powdery sweet, what I'd classify as oriental, but it's still a big NO for me!

I'm in agreement with most reviewers here...this is a lovely skin scent. Baked earth, spicy carnation, tinge of green (muguet???) Highly wearable. I prefer something sweeter, but this Guerlain is very underrated ~ give it a try for sure!

I'm thankful Ayala reviewed this one, she is always articulate and detailed...for me, Deseo was suprisingly good. A beach scent is how I'd classify it, and it is extremely enjoyable to wear. Also, the bottle is much more attractive in person than in ads.

I'll make this simple:

edt = citrus, lavender, oopoponax/tonka with vanilla.
I enjoy it very much. My husband hates it.
Fleeting in longevity.

The way I understand this Angel La Part des Anges is an aged re-worked version of Angel in extrait form. I've read that Francoise Caron toiled over this one, and that the aging process for this frag took 25 days. I'm not quite sure exactly what the "aging process" for extrait de parfum consists of, but the result is ever so sweet! And I do mean sweet. My first impression of the latest take on "Angel" is sweet chocolate, almost fruity and a bit 'boozy' in character. Burnt sugar carmel for sure! In comparison to the original extrait, which I tested side by side, the original has a more powdery and ethereal effect. The original also contains that glorious burst of patchouli that I adore! Both are smooth edged, creamy, dreamy delights! Angel is a masterpiece that has eluded me...at least until now...just my luck, I'll have to cough up the big bucks for an extrait version ~ which is the only way I enjoy this treasure! (On the plus side, just a slight dab lasts all day long. So my dollars may actually be well spent!)

This fragrance is so very unique! I am one of the unfortunates who cannot wear it well. When I get a whiff of Angel on someone else, it's intoxicating...however, after about 30 minutes of his on my own skin, I smell like I've stuck a chocolate bar under each arm ~ not pretty! It just seems 'too much' for me to wear for any length of time. If this original Angel is not to your liking, I suggest trying the floral Angel's. I'm in love with the patchouli base! The drydown is sexy - in an angelic way! Oh yeah, my husband really likes it too.

05/2008 update :

Finally, I have found enjoyment in wearing this treasure...it's called EXTRAIT! Just a dab, lasts all day long! Absolutely stunning! The great thing about Angel is there are so many options available ~ you just need to spend some time finding the way to wear it that works best for you! Now I can love wearing this one along with the rest of you!

Trebor's review is wonderful, and I agree with him that this Guerlain is very "Luten-esque"! Spiritueuse Double Vanille has substance and depth yet remains sheer. The vanilla here is rich and smooth, with a note of pure sweet pipe tobacco complimented by the slightest bit of booziness and smoke. I too was taken by suprise, SDV is very easy to enjoy, and completely wearable by a man or woman.

Aaaahhhhhh, this is scrumptious! Violet and wood. The violet here is absolutely succulent! It is deep, rich and dark (as opposed to bright/fresh/dewey). I actually salivate when smelling this Luten's masterpiece. It immediately reminds me of Dolce Vita - only better! The funny thing is, after reading Perfumes The Guide, I discover they are related! Bois de Violette pushes all the right buttons for me...including the woods blend, which does not strike me as dominantly cedar...it is crafted well and comes off as very wearable by either a man or woman. Maybe just a touch more feminine. In any case, I emptied my wallet for this one...and have not a single regret!

I've tested the eau de toilette version, which may be why it comes off weak to my nose...never the less, it is not all that interesting. The cedar is prominently above the other notes, rendering them ineffective in this blend. I wish the jasmine was more than an accent here, as it is lost among the woods. (Cedar and vetiver.) I detect only a tinge of rose.
I'll give this a neutral, until I re-test a more concentrated version...

A moist and fresh green paired with delicately sweet violet, mmmmmmmmmmmmm, it's lovely! This is one of my most favorite springtime floral frags. Despite it's cool freshness, it wears fairly close to the body, but lives a long life none the less! This is a L'Artisan boutique fragrance ~ only available in L'Artisan Parfumeur stand alone shops. It is worth seeking out, I believe I will always have a bottle of this in my wardrobe. Anne Flipo does fresh florals so well!

What a sleeper! This fancy little frag is simply fab! Heliotrope here gives Belle en Rykiel an uplifting, open/airy feel. Perfectly complimenting the rich base ~ which is reminiscent of Obsession, in a lighter and brighter way! When I sampled this one, my husband got a whiff and said, "Ooooh, what's that?!" He's not one to comment on fragrance unless his opinion is asked for....so I give Belle en Rykiel top honors for getting, and keeping, his attention! Thumbs up!

This one's odd. The intensity of Tumulte is crazy...it is full speed ahead, at least for the first few hours! (Yep, this stuff lasts forever, in fact after 12 hours I can still detect it on my skin!) It comes off initially like hundreds of other fruity florals, yet it is strangely different. I cannot distinguish the individual notes, but likewise cannot compliment on the blending or harmonizing of this juice. My senses are overwhelmed, maybe even leaving my nose feeling like it's been assaulted...ultimately, Tumulte receives a thumbs down. It is un-wearable, and unappreciated on my skin. (*I also asked my husband to give it a sniff...he wrinkled his nose at it.)

Maurice Roucel is an outstanding perfumer, Tocade is excellent in composition. It is an oriental, with a powdery/vanilla kick. The notes are smoothly orchestrated. For a powdery vanilla, I find my taste runs more in the direction of Kenzo Amour. It is brighter in it's overall character...Tocade has more warmth, and would be better suited to a cool climate.

Vibert's commentary on this fragrance is stellar! A masterpiece indeed, but let me interject....

I will never wear this scent. It is not at all what I wish to smell like. A thumbs up though, as it merits applause!

Wow, so many distinct impressions of this creation...for me, Rose de Nuit begins as a lush, velvety, fleshy, almost over-powering rose that kept my nose completely interested for at least a good 10 minutes or more. Then very slowly, the intense galbanum creeps into the limelight. It is green, and dark, becoming steely in the drydown. In smelling this fantastic rose fragrance, Chanel's no.19 kept coming to mind. I think they share alot between them, with Chanel's version as a bright rosy green chypre and Luten's a dark, more mysterious rose chypre. Very nicely done.

I'm not all that familiar with Kenzo fragrances. Kenzo Amour is a powdery sweet vanilla. At first, it comes off as an ultra feminine take on Bulgari Black. The vanilla powder has a certain "smokiness". I quite like it! It's not like anything else in my collection. Also resembling Montale's Sweet Oriental Dream - this Kenzo is extremely wearable and much preferred to the Montale. The balance is incredible, I don't get overwhelmed with any of the notes. If I could choose one word to describe this scent it would be 'harmony'.

Well, I'm in the middle on this one. A "medium" oriental/floral, opens with a fresh burst of fruitiness then drifts into a mild floral. Funny to read lillies in there, I cannot distinctly smell them. The heart notes are powdery sweet, then the base kicks in - which is what turns me off. It's kind of like Fresh's Sake. Something in it just sticks to the back of my throat. I'll give this one a neutral ~ but just barely.

ZZTOPP's commentary regarding this Creed is perfect! I will be purchasing Virgin Island Water come summer 2008!

Well, summer's around the corner and I've got my VIW ready to go! This stuff has gotten alot of undeserved bad press. I'll tell you this: it does not smell like suntan lotion. It does not smell like a drink. It does not even smell like B&BW Coconut Lime Verbena. Nope. What it DOES smell like is zesty citrus...lime...fresh and bright. The coconut is creamy and light, not too sweet, and definitely not like any lotion. The delicate florals are barely perceptable, but give balance so that this playfully classy elixir never comes off 'foody'. VIW is also completely unisex! My husband and I love it on eachother! Remarkably tenacious, and perfect for hot humid weather or a balmy summer evening. This is the only Creed I own, because it's worth owning!

While Luca Turin may be right about the composition of this blend being "technically tricky", and ultimately a masterpiece in composition...my nose tells me I don't want to smell like Beyond Paradise. No matter the level of difficulty in it's creation, when I sniff this juice it is slightly sharp, soapy, and a bit heavy on the peachy/apricot note. (I can also smell Tommy Girl.) True enough, BP holds it's shape and strength throughout it's entire lifespan, but if a floral symphony is what I desire, I'm more likely to head for Lauder's Beautiful...which is velvety smooth and more pleasing to my nose.

Over the years, Estee Lauder has marketed some fantastic fragrances...Youth Dew, Cinnabar, White Linen, Pleasures, Beautiful, the list goes on endlessly. Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia is undoubtedly one of their finest! This is a high quality-high class floral! It holds it's own up against the likes of Carnal Flower (Editions-Frederic Malle created by Dominique Ropion). For comparative purposes I wore the two together for a side by side testing. Ultimately, CF - being straight forward tuberose, came off to me as decidedly more masculine than PCTG. PCTG possesses the authentic dewy sweetness of a delicate white gardenia flower, which in my opinion pushes this frag into the realm of femininity. Being a Lauder, I expected it to have a good amount of projection and staying power - I was not disappointed! A floral lover's dream, this is a must have - the bigger the bottle, the better!

My friend across the street has a patch of delicious mint growing wildly in her landscape, she lets me swipe some whenever I need it...Chevrefeuille smells like when I rub one of those fresh mint leaves between my fingers. It is lemony and bright! Slightly herbaceous with an everlasting type freshness. As for the honeysuckle ~ I don't get much at all - it is extremely subdued. This is a winning unisex summertime elixir! In fact, I might prefer it on a man.

With all the "living" notes in Versace, this fragrance cannot help but smell "ALIVE"! The opening here is fresh & juicy. I love that it's not too fruity. There is a thread of aquatic/ozonic sensation that ripples through, just enough to keep the livliness in tact. The base is primarily musk, balanced by cedar. It ends up powdery on my skin. Decidedly feminine, with a feeling attached to it that is reminiscent of RL's Romance. Moderate to bold sillage, excellent staying power. Can be worn easily by any age group! It's not my personal choice of fragrance to wear, but I think it's wonderful and wearable! Thumbs up!

Powerhouse of an opener! No kidding, I sparingly spritzed a small amount of this juice onto the back of my hand and WHOOSH ~ a cloud of Guerlain permeated the entire shop! It was the good fortune of everyone within a 100 foot radius that I chose My Insolence to try! If an explosion of perfume is innevitable, make it a good one. Almost right from the start I could sense the patchouli/vanilla/tonka base begining to simmer as the attention grabbing raspberry cloud shifted. I say that in a good way ~ the raspberry note here is as beautiful as it is potent. The sweet/tart fruitiness melds into the floral heart effortlessly, and is in perfect balance. Not too sweet, which I applaud. The jasmine shares an equal spotlight with the almond blossom, one not standing in front of the other, completely side by side. As an hour passes this fragrance stays close, which suprises me...it settles into a powdery oriental that keeps me sniffing!!! My Insolence is gorgeous, I highly recommend giving it a try. That goes for you adventuresome gentlemen too!

This is a strange one...the topnotes come off like English Leather. As the drydown progresses, mild incense notes waft in & out, reminiscent of L'Artisan's Passage D'Enfer but not as high quality. The strangeness is that after those two associations have cleared through, this scent is kind of nice. Wait just a minute...another two associations have come up - Fierce by Abercrombie and Dunhill (brown). Yep. That's all folks!

Very original! I love the geranium leaves as a tempered green among the bright clean lemon, sweet floral honeysuckle and aromatic lavender. Excellent balance - smooth too. For me Covet is neutral in gender, and fairly easy to wear. Another perfumery success for SJP!

I was all set to trash this television show fragrance, but after pressing the pump on the sample bottle, this juice hit my wrist and I was a changed woman! Not that Forbidden Fruit is any earth shattering concoction, but it is quite suprising. Apple is definitely part of this blend, pomegranate too, as well as a variety of florals...possibly gardenia, hyacinth, wisteria and jasmine for good measure! It is fresh and flirty. Don't hesitate to try it, and enjoy this hidden little secret for yourself!

Personal chemistry is really key with this Love at First Glow. For me, I love it on paper, but on my skin it doesn't work at all. The florals come off very sharp and soapy, not clean and fresh, just sudsy ~ like I need to rinse! I'm giving a neutral as I believe others will find this scent very refreshing and wearable.

Osmanthus is the star fragrance note here in Precious Heart. It is a delicate golden flower native to China, and posseses a fruity-apricot floral aroma. Osmanthus dominantes this composition. I have read Precious Heart also contains light cardamom and cedar. I never get the cardamom. The ced