Fragrance Reviews by lefay

I got a sample of this about a year ago, just revisited it, and fell in love. The oud is up front, rising from the skin like a bitter, smoky drug. Amber and leather quickly emerge, and then the notes melt together into a mysterious, narcotic vapor. There is an underlying but understated sweetness that may be vanilla, or just further development of the amber. Although it bears a passing resemblance to other ambery scents, this one stands out as deeper, more sophisicated, and in the end just lovelier. I began a mad search for it online, only to discover that it was a limited-edition fragrance that has been discontinued. How I wish I'd bought a bottle (or three) when I had the chance! I always seem to fall for the unattainable ones. How sad to discover my HG scent after it has vanished from the earth.

I'm not a fan of powder, and so had my doubts about this. But it surprised me. It has both a cool, mineral austerity and a wistful, abiding depth that reminds me of L'Heure Bleu in emotional tone if not in actual olfactory similarity. Infusion d'Iris manages to be sophisticated and well mannered while hinting at something passionate and ageless. It starts out as a light slip of a thing; then incense and cedar begin to emerge and anchor the soft floral and iris notes. Quite lovely, not a mainstream fragrance, and more original and interesting than Prada's original scent.

I just unearthed a sample I've had for a while, was smitten, and had to order a bottle. Coze starts off spicy and slightly herbaceous, quickly cools down to a white smokiness, and lingers for hours with hints of dark chocolate and vanilla (which curiously are dry here, and not overly sweet. I'm not a big fan of gourmands -- most are cloying -- but manages to be both restrained and seductive). Definitely unisex, in my view, but not for ingenues of either gender.

Gawd! The name is so enticing, and the reality so crass! I love many complex and "challenging" orientals, but this is not among them. On first blast it has a sickly sweet gourmand, boozy, faintly rotten animal pong -- after a few moments I detect an ambery accord similar to Prada -- and then it quickly devolves into something anemic, faintly metallic, and synthetic. Such a disappointment. I recommend sampling before buying.

I haven't tried this yet, but Aedes describes it as a "spicy, aromatic iced tea blend" and a totally organic EDT, and lists the notes as follows: jatamansi, grapefruit, cardamom, clary sage, rose and ylang-ylang; Indian papyrus, incense and guaiacum.

To my nose this is a foodier version of Prada. Given the notes listed, Badgley Mischka is surprisingly cloying -- it gives the impression of booze, sugar, and caramel rather than fruit, flowers, and woods. I am not a fan, but can understand how others might like it. Very glad I bought a small sample before springing on a bottle.

I wore this in the '90s and loved the wistfulness and elegance of the violet accord. A couple of years ago I bought another bottle (the EDT) and was stunned at the difference from my remembered, cherished scent: this was sharper, rougher, more powdery, and lacking the smooth translucence of the original (in fact, it reminded me more of No. 5, which I can't wear). Does anyone know whether Le Dix has been reformulated? Perhaps I need to try the parfum -- but if they've changed the formula, that may not help.

I second Ayala's review: this is warm, somewhat sweet and deep, and rather linear over the drydown -- and of course with that unmistakable Ormonde Jayne base. Has anyone else noted a striking similarity to Plus Que Jamais, which Guerlain released in 2005? PQJ may be a touch more foodie -- but otherwise these must have notes in common. Both are eminently wearable without being truly outstanding.

I just bought Replique (no doubt the reissued version) based on Moondeva's review, and my take on it is radically different. It is a powdery chypre, with somewhat harsh green/floral top notes and a slightly leathery, mossy base. I can't detect civet (the prominent animalic note in Tabu), musk or vanilla in this concoction, and would not imagine it as an inspiration for YSL Opium or any similarly lush, spicy oriental. In fact it doesn't strike me as an oriental -- or even a spicy floral -- at all. It does, however, have an old-school French sophistication on the drydown. I am more inclined to keep this in my collection as an example of a classic scent than to wear and enjoy it. Perhaps I have to keep trying it now and then.

No dainty tea roses here. Rose Barbare is noble and lovely -- a deep floral, conjuring images or red/black blooms, against a backdrop of woods and (to my nose) leather. This fragrance reminds me of Empreinte by Courreges (or at least my memory of it) -- profound, dry, soft (though not powdery), round and warm. It manages to be both dignified and enticing.

I bought this based on Luca Turin's rave review (which likened it to a less brassy Bal a Versailles) and was surprised at how unlike BaV this is. It is an utterly distinctive dry exotic floral, but with an insistent, sweet and indefinably herbal joss-stick-like note that persists throughout the drydown. Another reviewer referred to "tasting" this fragrance, and that was how I experienced it, too; it permeates the nose and mouth. It took some getting used to, and I still have to be in a very particular, bohemian frame of mind to wear it. I prefer L'Air, and look forward to trying Orris.

The fragrance notes listed here are actually the ones for Lucifer No. 1.

Having read Chandler Burr's piece in the NY Times about the making of Lovely, I was expecting something slightly daring and exotic and was disappointed when I actually sampled it. It's got a bit of fizz in the opening, an unusual floral accord (not too sweet, at least), and then musk, musk, musk. I wish SJP had ignored the marketing people and launched the mysterious, sultry fragrance she'd concocted for her own use by mixing three separate scents together. Maybe her next fragrance will be more compelling.

Chergui -- I want to devour it. A perfect balance of tobacco leaf, hay, honey, and very subtle herbaceous and floral notes. The tobacco is most prominent at first, and the hay and honey linger on the skin like late afternoon sun. One of the most compelling scents ever created.

Carnal Flower is one of those fragrances that changes fairly dramatically depending on my body chemistry (mood? hormones?). At times the eucalyptus is too sharp; at other times the musk is borderline cloying. But when the stars are all aligned, this is fabulous. Those floral compounds (indoles?) that mimic the scent of human skin are working overtime in this beauty. The scent stays close to the body, doesn't project much, but surrounds the wearer in a cloud of moist floral dreaminess. Sensuous, but understated.

Mon Coeur is a lovely blend of spring flowers, with tuberose at the forefront. It is reminiscent of Fracas and Versace Blonde, but is less flamboyant and narcotic than the former and more complex and refined than the latter. Has some depth and a sweet wistfulness.

A sexy, smoky concoction. I detect amber, most definitely, black tea, some kind of fruit (blackberry?), incense, and a strong wood note (gaiac?) similar to that in 10 Corso Como. (The wood smells aged and weathered, like that in an old church or seaside cottage, and seems to have a story to tell.) I'd assumed this was a cold-weather scent -- and maybe it blooms best in cooler temperatures -- but it's August 1st, and hot, and Scent Intense seems to blend seamlessly with the humid atmosphere. Not recommended for the timid or for lovers of lighthearted floral, oceanic, or sweet/fruity scents, this is a dark diva cloaked in mystery.

I just rediscovered this in the back of my fragrance closet after having tucked it away a couple of years ago. VE is a classy chypre with green and floral notes. Very wearable with casual or elegant wear. Dries down to a soft, incensy finish. It's a sophisticated alternative spring/summer scent to all the light floral, fruity, and marine accords out there, but is suitable for any time of year.

I had a bottle of L'Heure Attendue years ago and remember it as a "fizzy" woody oriental -- perhaps it had aldehydes that didn't agree with me. (Jan Moran's "Fabulous Fragrances lists the notes of this 1946 invention as [top] lily of the valley, geranium, lilac; [heart] ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, opopanax; [base] mysore sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli.) But a knowledgeable salesperson told me that fragrance used to be worn lower on the body, so that the scent would waft up and the overall effect would be softer than if it were applied near the earlobes and throat (for example). This trick seems to work for scents that might otherwise be too aggressive. But although the notes themselves don't seem particularly odd, the combination/proportions may make L'Heure Attendue one of those vintage concoctions that shows its age.

Unlike some of the more challenging fine fragrances (including some of the vintage classics), this is gorgeous from the moment you apply it. I've been so disappointed by designer scents (Vera Wang, et al.) that I wasn't expecting much from this one. But the warm floral top notes are stunning, underscored by woods, moss, and something faintly animalic. It manages to be both sophisticated and voluptuous somehow -- an elusive combination, in my experience. I'm trying this for the first time on a rainy spring day, and the sensation is of stepping into an exotic garden at the edge of a dense wood.

My initial impression was of heavy-handed musk (I wonder whether the overbalance of gardenia contributes to this). Very disappointing -- I was expecting something classier and more sophisticated from Vera Wang. It does improve (become softer and fresher) with the drydown, but still, this is almost indistinguishable from the dozens of other modern musky-florals on the market.

A classy green chypre that dries down slightly powdery. Sophisticated and confident.

This is lovely -- reminiscent of Donna Karan's (discontinued) Chaos, which was perhaps a bit more leathery and less spicy. There's a nod to Tea for Two, also, but Idole is unique, thanks to the floatiness that reviewer Leopoldo referred to and the subtle sweetness, which after a while seems faintly floral, although no flower notes are listed. I'm anxious to try Lubin's other scents.

I ordered this from www.arabianbazaar.com, along with two other (Al Haramain) fragrances. (These are alcohol-free perfume oils.) The descriptions on the website are vague, so I ordered rather blindly, based on a Basenote member's assurance of quality from this company. 1001 Nights (also listed as Alf Laila O Laila) is dominated by a woody note that reminds me of the wood in 10 Corso Como -- only in this case it is so forward as to obliterate all the other notes for the first few hours. This note by itself isn't terribly pleasant, to my nose (although I like Corso Como) -- it has a musty, slightly animalic character, like a wooden plank in a derelict building. After a few hours, though, the scent morphs into a smooth accord with florals (rose, I think) peeking through the wood, and it becomes suddenly soft and intriguing. And now, the next day, I can still detect a woody and slightly spicy note on my skin where I applied it. I'm sorry I can't provide a more detailed description of the actual notes, which in this formula may be unfamiliar to me. I need to give this a few more trials, but for now, because of the hours of dank wood smell, I'm giving this a neutral rating. I'd love to know what others think of this scent.

I just tried Je Reviens EDT for the first time, and while there's no mistaking this for a modern floral aldehyde (it evokes an earlier era), it does have a timeless quality. To my nose, it's a more "complete" version of Chanel No. 5 (which smells jagged and unfinished on me). An interesting study in contrasts: warm and cool, floral and spicy, with a powdery aura that drifts over the entire drydown. A special occasion scent, in my view. I'm curious to try the EDP and parfum.

Lovely, classic, and sophisticated, with no hard edges. A gorgeous and timeless leather chypre with floral, green, woody, and powdery notes. Wish I had discovered this years ago!

Similar to Sexual by Michel Germain. A warm woody-floral with a hit of fruit on top. Nice, but not extraordinary -- a rather typical modern oriental.

A very round and warm fragrance redolent of flowers and soft spice that also gives an impression of fruit in the top notes. Nice, but don't let the name get your hopes up. A just-short-of-cloying come-hither evening scent. Similar to Ferragamo's Incanto.

I really had high hopes for this (had sampled it on a paper strip), since I like to try gender-nonspecific fragrances, but I feel let down. Despite the "upside down" pyramid, on my skin this releases a blast of orange (lollipop) to start, which quickly gives way to a warm, somewhat blah woody accord with what smells like a hint of musk (maybe the ambergris). I just applied it a half hour ago, and the EDT is already fading away. Not bad, exactly -- it's inoffensive enough -- but not something I would buy again.

The first time I smelled this out of the bottle, my jaw fell open. Perfect, I thought; ethereal. It's a classic mossy chypre, a wooded glade at twilight. But it also seems to vary dramatically on my skin from application to application -- sometimes soft, sometimes sharp -- so I can only wear it occasionally. It can also have a similarly disturbing effect on my mood as Mitsouko, which I still consider a masterpiece. Unusual and elusive. Love the oblique bottle, and the black oblique cap.

My favorite sandalwood fragrance, by far. Perfectly balanced by unobtrusive amber and musk, it creates an aura of serenity and mystery. The cologne has very little staying power on me, however; I only wish it were available in a stronger formulation.

I wore Casmir for a while in the '90s, until one day I was suddently overcome with its sickening, heavy sweetness and couldn't stomach it anymore. (Two friends of mine had the same experience after wearing it for a short period.) To my nose it lacks complexity and intrigue, and is essentially a one-dimensional, cloying, fruity-vanilla onslaught.

I agree with donna225. Had a chance to try a sample of the parfum, and it is exquisite -- deep and full from the start. I get fruit, but more of a rich floral chypre feel, with woods, moss, and spices prominent. It does have the classic Caron accord, but is still very distinctive within that line.

Crystal Noir is described as a gardenia and amber fragrance, and although I smell those notes there's something else going on, too. It's more complex than it seems initially (and I was prepared to dismiss this as a one-dimensional modern oriental); it develops on my skin into something deep, smoky, not at all powdery, with a touch of a balsamic atmosphere way under the surface. It's not one of those passion-invoking classic orientals for me, but nonetheless subtle, warm, and quite sensual.

This reminds me of L'Heure Bleue (which I also adore), but without the heavy oriental basenotes. It has the same quality of wistfulness, of a memory half evaporated. One of the gems of the old Guerlain line.

Perfumery notes: Top notes of Italian citron, peach and clove buds. Mid-notes of coriander, ylang ylang, tarragon, jasmin, rose and gardenia. Dry down notes of benzoin, labdanum, musk, oakmoss and vetiver. It's classified as an oriental (because of all the spices, I suppose) but seems more in the character of a complex chypre to me. Slightly resinous, and definitely warm, round, and more womanly than "feminine"; to my nose the spices and wood dominate, and the florals subtly fill in the background. Not a modern scent at all -- more along the lines of the classics, but with a nice, slightly edgy strangeness.

L'Aimant was my first fragrance (most likely cologne strength) when I was about 13. (My sister wore Emeraude.) I wore it every day to school and carried the bottle, along with extra pens, in my purse, and one boy who was constantly borrowing pens from me admitted that he only did it because they always smelled so nice. I remember it as a soft floral on a woody base, and it made me feel grown-up and mysterious. Though it pales in comparison with my current favorites, L'Aimant was my first conscious perfume experience (apart from my mother's Shalimar) and marked the beginning of my love affair with fragrance, so it will always evoke sentimental memories for me.

Absolutely one of the most elegant, sophisticated fragrances ever created, No. 19 is Chanel's masterpiece. Miles above No. 5, in my view, in its construction, balance, and overall tone. This is a true chypre, to my nose, and not a green fragrance, because of the prominence of smoky woods, moss, and leather throughout the drydown. Not a cozy, come-hither scent by any stretch -- it is inherently aloof, although it does have a dark emotionality at its core -- but one to be worshipped and admired.

With high expectations, I sampled this classic years ago (I think in EDT form). The scent as I perceived it was redolent of men's urinal (or New York subway station at 2:00 am in July), with decaying roses thrown into the mix. As other reviewers have noted, this may have been due to the inferiority of the EDT formulation, or to the aldehydes (are some of us biologically predisposed to hate these?); I may even have gotten a bad sample, although a friend of mine had the same reaction when she sampled it elsewhere. I hope to test the parfum one day so I can satisfy my curiosity. Joy was not for me, and was so rank to my nose that I can't even give Patou the benefit of a neutral rating on this one.

Like "takemyhusbandplz" (great name, by the way), I love Byzance's packaging and opening fragrance notes -- but the drydown is musty on me as well. I have a friend on whom this melts down into a scrumptious vanilla/incensy accord, and I was hopeful it would do the same on me. Oh well.

I'm generally not a fan of scents with predominant citrus notes, but Eau de Rochas is a beautiful exception because of its complexity and balance. (Scenteur7 summed it up perfectly.) This is an exquisite fragrance, and a particularly sophisticated option for warm weather.

Madame Rochas is the archetypal French floral: overtly feminine, lush, complex, beautiful, and refined. It is similar in style to Arpege, but more powdery and less woody in the drydown. My husband says "soap" (probably the powder, and his less-sophisticated nose), but to me this is a classic romantic fragrance.

I bought this EDT years ago after sampling it on a magazine strip (a first!). It has no sharp edges, is light and somewhat innocent, but has more character than most of the "young" (fruity-sweet, foodie, or watery) scents out there today. There's a fresh citrus note giving way to a soft, lovely floral accord (mostly muguet, to my nose, with some rose) and a sandalwood/mossy base -- though all the notes are pretty evident upfront. It isn't terrifically complex and doesn't develop dramatically on the drydown, but I unfailingly got compliments, and several of my male coworkers bought it for their wives and girlfriends after noticing it on me. Though it was my signature scent at the time, I feel that I outgrew it once I delved more deeply into perfumery and became a mad sampler of more exotic and complicated fragrances. Still, this is a lovely spring/summer scent that won't tax you intellectually or emotionally and will attract many admirers.

I first sampled this in the mid-'80s (found a small bottle on someone else's bathroom vanity and took a sniff and a dab; I'm shameless that way), and immediately fell in love. "The perfect fragrance," I thought. Since then I've delved into newer, stranger, and more intriguing scents, but this still holds up as an all-time truly glorious oriental.

Nocturnes (to my nose) is a complex aldehydic floral with a warm drydown and beautiful, wistful sillage. Unlike other reviewers, I don't perceive lemon, soapiness, or powder so much as creamy floral notes on a soft woods base. It is sophisticated, unusual, and emotional; one of my favorites.

This is an elegant, slightly spicy floral with a warm drydown. It is lovely, but rather undistinguished, and doesn't seem to last very long on the skin.

I sampled the EDT and found the musk to be almost sickening -- it was so pervasive and overpowered the other notes. (And I wore musk-based fragrances many years ago.) I had to wash it off within a half hour. Perhaps, as another reviewer suggested, the EDP is different, but with so many other voluptuous fragrances out there, I'm not sure this is worth another try.

Theorema is somewhat reminiscent of Angel, in that it has a gourmand element, opening with a burst of fruit. The sweetness dries down pleasantly to a warm, lush bed of spice/vanilla/amber, with something that reminds me of mango lingering in the background. Very feminine, to my nose, and assertive without being sharp. Nice.

Avignon is a paradox: a cold incense -- perhaps because it evokes for me a stone cathedral on a late autumn night. It is slightly brutish at first, then becomes more ethereal. The smell of ritual, old dry wood, and candle flame, in a bottle.

Spicy and assertive, with lots of notes vying for your attention at once (typically Italian, in that sense). Also strangely upbeat, for such a heavy scent. Not my favorite oriental -- like VintageVogue, I like a little darkness and ambiguity -- but nice to have around for those days when you're in the mood for it.

To those who think this is old-fashioned given its relatively recent release date, I believe Parfum Sacre was originally created decades ago and then reformulated in 1990. (The Caron Boutique site lists it as a contemporary fragrance, though; if you know the real story, please tell us.) A classic with lots of character and complexity, both assertive and soft: a peppery floral with a warm, powdery drydown.

I'm not sure which version I own, but since I bought it a couple of years ago I'll assume it's the new one. My husband thinks this smells like soap, but to my nose this is an utterly elegant, classic French floral with a woody, slightly powdery drydown (and I'm not generally a fan of powdery scents). Beautifully put together. Reminds me a bit of Arpege, which has more wood and less powder but the same sort of classic French construction.

I wore this for a few years before getting into more esoteric and challenging fragrances. I must say that although it's a straightforward warm woody floral without any particularly interesting quirks (other than the noticeable patchouli note), it always elicited compliments. The more concentrated forms are richer and deeper than (preferable to, in my view) the EDT.

I had a sample of the original a long time ago, which I loved, and then spent years trying to find it again. It resurfaced at Long Lost Perfumes, but either my memory fails me or the formula has changed; the new version doesn't have the same depth. This is a spicy fragrance with woody and subtle floral undertones. Warm and somewhat heavy; better in cool weather.

I second Paloma54; the word that comes to mind immediately is "strange" -- then "deep" and "mysterious." Not a modern fragrance in any sense; idiosyncratic, complex, and not easy to grasp. Never having tried the original, I found mine at Long Lost Perfume. I do love it but have to pick my moments.

Bought a bottle of this based on a review elsewhere and gave it away shortly thereafter. An undistinguished fragrance: not awful, but lacking grace and loveliness. I should have known; his clothing designs bore me, too.

I didn't "get" Fracas at first. Initially it hit me (more a fan of chypres and sophisticated orientals) like a truckload of white flowers. Then I began to discern the different notes -- like hearing an arpeggio instead of a tone cluster. I can understand why this is a cult fragrance. It is voluptuous and euphoric, a bundle of sparkling, almost narcotic florals on a bed of soft woods and moss. It now has a permanent place among my fragrance staples.

I agree with RoseAmber. More than any other fragrance I wear, Mitsouko changes in character depending on my mood and chemistry -- but it always induces a vague sense of melancholy in me. Nonetheless, it is a beautifully constructed, classy scent -- not sweet, rather assertive and angular (melting down to a warm, woody accord), not for the immature or insecure. Puts the modern Guerlains to shame.

Created for Princess Grace to wear on her wedding day, this is an elegant and well-behaved floral with notes of tuberose, violet, rose, and lilac. It lacks the depth of florals anchored by spicy or woody notes -- it just floats on the breeze like the fragrance of a spring garden. Lovely, well-bred, and uncomplicated.

One of the most sublimely beautiful fragrances ever created. The pure parfum is to die for. (I've heard younger people describe it as an "old woman's scent," but this merely reflects their lack of experience.) Vol de Nuit (along with L'Heure Bleue) has a piercing poignancy, evoking emotion and memory that remain just beyond reach. It is perfectly balanced, ethereal, and womanly -- not for the immature or insecure.

The woman I spoke to at the Caron Boutique in New York has never heard of Tabac Noir! Where can I find some (or get a sample)? Thank you.

Lovely from the first. Dry and pure (smells like Moroccan rose to me), slightly peppery and herbal. Soul-soothing, but not sweet. Love it.

I bought Alessandro Dell'Acqua based on the fragrance notes described above and elysium's review. I have to say that the top notes (on me) were so unpleasantly harsh, in a bug-spray kind of way, that I was ready to give the bottle away. After about 45 minutes or so the scent began to settle down into a somewhat soft floral with woody-spicy undertones -- fresh, like a modern scent, but complex in the style of the classics. The jury's still out, though, as I'm not sure the drydown is worth that first terrible hour or so.

Just received a sample of this fragrance. The top note is intoxicating jasmine; not cloying, but like the living flower. I found it to be a wonderful mood lifter. It melts down to a benzoin/soft musk accord that stays very close to the skin. This doesn't have the staying power, complexity, or depth of most Serge Lutens fragrances but is sparkling enough for summer and penetrating enough (at least right after application) for winter. One of the nicer jasmine-based scents.

Pleasantly bland. It has a kind of kittenish sexiness to it, which might be great on a 16-year-old, and dries down to an innocuous, undifferentiated (to my nose) powdery note reminiscent of (but less distinctive than) Blue Grass. Though the original Angel was not a masterpiece, it was groundbreaking in its time as a "gourmet" fragrance evoking mango and chocolate. This is just "bleh."

Haven't tried this yet; I've read about it recently and I'm intrigued. But I can't seem to find it either online or in US stores. Can someone help? Thank you!

A study in contrasts. Starts our rather sharp and bracing (not for the shy), thanks to the tangerine and ivy, and slowly melts down into an ideosyncratic blend of bitter and sweet floral and wood notes that leaves a strange and haunting trail. Instantly recognizable and very distinctive. I've gotten numerous compliments while wearing it, especially the parfum de toilette, which is all but impossible to find now. But be careful not to overapply!

Fresh, green, very wearable daytime scent with some depth. Starts off with a grapefruit note (to my nose) and settles into an unusual but appealing gentian/green accord. Lovely.

I found Cabaret to be cloying -- too sweet, and too undifferentiated. Perhaps I needed to give it a longer trial, but I gave away the bottle I bought. Other dramatic fragrances like Opium, for me, are more complex and interesting.

Cabochard is a distinctive, classy fragrance well suited to a confident woman (or man) who wants a break from floral/oriental scents. There is a definite animalic quality, but also prominent is the chypre accord of woods (balsams) and mosses, with hints of floral notes. Very bracing and deep, lovely in cool weather, and not for the faint-hearted!

I didn't like this on first try -- it reminded me of Nuits Indienne [sp?] -- but it has grown on me. (The scent on my skin also varies according to my mood and chemistry.) The effect is of soft woods and spices in an enveloping aura; it has both a bitter and a sweet element, neither of which takes over fully. I enjoy unusual/ambiguous fragrances, and this is becoming a favorite of mine.

In addition to the notes mentioned here, I detect anise, which I love but may be an acquired taste. Lou Lou has a poignant quality that is hard to describe. Though it's a relatively modern fragrance, for me it evokes 1920s Paris, a la Louise Brooks. It is both fresh and deep, and very intimate somehow (a real skin scent), and by some accounts has always been more popular among Europeans than Americans. Not for the mainstream.

On first sniff, I was put off. But this scent grew on me slowly. Rose predominates, along with an unidentifiable and odd fruity note (I read somewhere that it's passion fruit); as it dries down, it takes on a woodier, almost incenselike aura. It is clean and transparent, with no trace of powderiness, which is very appealing to me. Definitely an oddball fragrance, not for those who like sweet and uncomplicated smells, and very distinctive.

I love this classic fragrance, which to me has a noticeable animalic/leathery note smoldering beneath the flowers and oak moss. Best worn in fall and winter, I think. I once wore it around someone with an unsophisticated nose, however, who asked innocently where the litter box was. But I filed that away with other dismissive comments about gorgeous classics such as L'Heure Bleue and Vol de Nuit being "old lady" scents. (Some people think white zinfandel is good wine, too.) Besides, we wear fragrance primarily to please ourselves, don't we?

I wanted to love this "classic," but found the aldehydes unpleasant; on me they create a raw, ragged impression, as though the formula is unfinished somehow. No. 19 works better on me, but overall Guerlain has Chanel beat for sophisticated, complex, feminine fragrances.