Fragrance Reviews by mrclmind

Top: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, tarragon, coriander, clary sage
Middle: Clove bud, jasmine, rose de-mai, ylang, orchid
Base: Sandal, musk, vetiver, cedar, vanilla, benzoin

L'Heure Bleue is a classic Guerlain floral that I have come to love immensely. When I first tried it, the calyx type notes that came up were a bit off-putting, but then the gorgeous base started to shine through and I fell in love. Since then I have come to love all aspects of this scent. The floral elements are not typical, in that they smell more like crushed petals to my nose than aroma-chemical reproductions of a floral concept. The top note is fresh and spicy. The freshness is fleeting and the spicy element helps to weave the scent's development into the afore mentioned floral mid notes. There is also a spicy clove note in the midst of the floral composition that is so well formulated that it gives mystery and intrigue to the experience. The base notes develop rather slowly (I wear the EDP concentration) and begin as a sensual musk; then the delicate woods appear, until finally the delightful powder of benzoin which prolongs the dry down takes over. I love it and I wear it, and I smell great when I do. I take no heed of so-called gender labels when it comes to a scent like this.

I find this scent to be very well made. It is classified as a woody floral. Although the listed pyramid includes notes of Mastic, Violet, Geranium Leaves, Jasmine, Freesia, Orris, Musk, Amber Seeds and Ambergris, it could almost be called an orris soliflore. For those who are looking for a dry masculine floral, you may have hit the mother-lode with this one. I find that orris as a fragrance note becomes both boring and irritating after a time. I do think I will find occasional rotation in my wardrobe for this scent, but only on those days when I want a wistful hit of orris.

Beautiful, fresh lavender top note that lasts longer than most of its competitors. The rosewood/clary sage middle notes truly extend the lavender and prolong it rather than fighting against it. I particularly enjoy this scent's very extended long-lasting dry down of tonka bean, moss and musk. One of the best lavender scents I've encountered.

I used to own a very small fragrance house. We had a formula that was very popular, but prohibitively expensive to produce. It was based on an accord of Bulgarian rose absolute and henna absolute. There is something in this blend that reminds me so much of that accord that it's uncanny. I smell henna flower absolute. Who knows if it's really in there or is just an illusion based on the accord of notes from other sources. At any rate, I love it. I had no idea it was so powerful. I sprayed myself three times prior to a fundraising event tonight. I was rather self conscious most of the evening with the billowing clouds of sillage pouring off me. But is was so intoxicatingly gorgeous, I ultimately didn't really care!

Top: Orant, Bergamot, Pimento (allspice), Aldehyde, Lemon, Fruit Accord
Middle: Carnation, Cinnamon, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang, Fern Accord
Base: Patchouli, Amber, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Olibanum, Benzoin, Musk

I completely understand other reviewer's comments about JHL smelling like "old lady perfume," but I love it just the same. JHL is a very strong oriental which has a somewhat bewitching sillage. It has a very spicy/fresh opening that is not my favorite part of the scent. The heart is a gorgeous spicy floral which is quite compelling. The extended dry down continues the spice-fest and adds a balsamic and sweet anchor. Worn in moderation, JHL can be quite intoxicating and beautiful. Over-sprayed, it is just obnoxious.

On my skin this is a beautiful frankincense fragrance, my favorite frankincense scent in fact. The vanilla and the tonka are subdued. This is not a gourmand scent at all, nor is it appropriate to be labeled as a "feminine" fragrance, as it is truly unisex. The vanilla is dry and blends seamlessly with the tonka and frankincense allowing the incense note to be in the forefront. This is another winner from Patricia de Nicolai.

The comparisons to Parfum Sacre are quite understandable.

Top notes: basil, lemon and mandarin
Middle notes: carnation, orange blossom, pepper, cinnamon
Base notes: frankincense, vanilla, tonka bean

I am not a huge fan of the Serge Lutens line. I appreciate them, but they are not my style at all. As a whole I find that their compositions tend to have sharp edges and are composed to be very bold, with very discernible delineations of each note, rather than seamless integrations of accords. This is the style of this house and they do a great job with that particular aesthetic, but they are not generally to my liking.

Having said all that, Muscs Koublai Khan is a masterpiece. Anyone who has spent time with actual animal musk tinctures knows that many animalic notes in modern perfumery are far away from their natural counterparts. MKK is a massively successful recreation of true-to-nature animalic perfume notes. Although there are also non-animalic notes in the composition, they are purely ancillary to the 4 note accord of Musk, Civet, Ambergris and Castoreum. It is quite an accomplishment given that no animal products were used in the making of this perfume. This is a scent that many will like and others will find difficult to wear; however no one who is familiar with the natural notes that are recreated in MKK can argue with the fact that this is a masterful creation. My hat's off to this house. Bravo.

I'm thrilled that Givenchy III has been reissued. I'm also very happy that the list of ingredients on the label includes oakmoss.

Givenchy III's animalic component is quite subdued but is strong enough to categorize it as is a dry floral/animalic chypre.

The opening is a green combination of galbanum, aldehydes and some dry fruit notes and bergamot.

The heart is a white floral centered around jasmine with notes of muget, rose, orris, carniation and jonquil.

The base is an excellent warm, woody and mossy patchouli/oakmoss with some amber, betiver, castoreum and myrrh.

This is a fine chypre for both men and women.

Chypre/Coniferous

Rocabar is quite nice actually. I don't know where all the neutral ratings come from. It is an excellent coniferous chypre which is laid over a very balsamic/vanilla base which is where it gets its sweetness. It's not "green," its "coniferous." It's resinous and rich. I find Rocabar very wearable. Many of these coniferous chypre types of scents start to smell like pinesol, or nature walks through the forest; it can get a bit too much. Whereas Rocabar, on the other hand, is subdued and elegant. My only disappointment with it is the last stage of its dry down which becomes an almost linen-clean musk on my skin. Not a bad smell, but completely random and having nothing whatsoever to do with the concept of the fragrance. I'm quite happy with pretty much all the men's fragrances from this house. The only one that hasn't yet grown on me is Eau d'Hermes. I'm still trying to acquire the taste for that cumin note in there.

Montana Parfum d'Homme
Coniferous Chypre.

Top: Bergamot, Aldehydes, Synthetic green accords, lemon, lavender and tarragon
Middle: Pine, Rose, Jasmine, Carnation, Cinnamon and Fern accord
Base: Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Amber, Labdanum, Tree Moss, Leather and Vanilla

The opening is fresh and spicy and I prefer it to Havana's opening. The heart notes are spicy and floral and quite sensuous. The Base notes present themselves rather quickly and are slightly sweet, woody and amberic, with a hint of leather. The perfume does have much in common with Havana, but without the obvious tobacco notes. It's a gorgeous and sexy fragrance that is priced very nicely, I picked up a 120 ML bottle from a local discount perfumery for about $18.00. My one ounce bottle of vintage Havana cost me about $70. While they aren't exact duplicates, the similarities are rather striking.

Devin is a lovely green chypre with a bergamot and green top, a spiced floral heart (I detect a definite basil note that is not listed in any pyramid I've seen) and warm leathery/moss base. It smells dated to some, classic to others. I tend to agree with the latter. I have heard it be compared to Guerlain Derby, but I honestly do not get the connection. It does have very much in common however with Halston Z-14, although to my nose Devin is decidedly the more sophisticated of the two.

Talk about a classic! Tiffany for Men was one of the first colognes I bought; and was also one of the first I ever used up and had to replace. It is sophisticated gentlemanly oriental. I know some people claim it to be a chypre and we can all just agree to disagree.

The fresh opening is a gorgeous bergamot with further citrus, lavender, cardamom, and a bit of a great leafy note.

The middle note centers around cedar, patchouli and carnation which is highly refined by the floral notes of Rose, Orris, and Jasmine, plus some spicy notes of cinnamon and anise, and some sandalwood

The dry-down is extended due to the vanilla/tonka/amber accord. There are traces of labdanum, moss and olibanum underpinning the base.

Tiffany for Men is the epitome of elegance and sophistication.

A classic floral fougere from the mid thirties.

Top notes: begamot wih lemon, petitgrain, lavender and clary sage
Mid notes: Rose, Jasmin, Carnation, Orris and Sadalwood
Base Notes: Musk, Tonka, cedar, moss, amber and leather

Too bad there aren't more men who love good classic fragrances; then there would be more buyers of them and they would be discontinued at a much smaller and slower rate.

The artemesia, bergamot and aldehydes open this fragrance gloriously. Then come the subtle greens and gardenia, with a very slight undercurrent of cumin. The heart is a deep patchouli lightened by a luscious jasmin with a bit of orris, sandalwood and vetiver. The Leather and oakmoss base cover the castoreum, ambergris and musk trio that give a tremendous animalic warmth.

This is an amazing classic. The legend states that this was originally formulated to be a woman's fragrance. If that's true, I'm sure the formula was tweaked a bit for the masculine fragrance market. The basenotes pyramid lists some notes that I don't smell, but there you have it.

I love the fresh top and cool floral middle. The dry down is good until it gets to the very end. It smells a bit like a musty old cedar chest to me. I really do like the bulk of the fragrance, but the end of the dry-down is unpleasant albeit subtle.

I wasn't too sure about this one when I tested a spray of the EDT on my wrist at the store. I liked it, but wasn't sure. But the EDP was not very expensive, so I thought "why not?" and splurged. About 3 sprays to my chest and I was wondering what I had done! It was rather feminine. But the top notes burned off and left a gorgeous dry floral with warm, slightly sweet incense notes. I realized I really quite loved Parfum Sacre. Gentlemen, it actually works well as a unisex perfume. Just wait about 20 minutes for the somewhat feminine opening to burn off and you're good to go. The EDP lasts a good long time. It's not too sweet and very unique.

Top notes: lemon, pepper, mace, cardomon and aldehydes;
middle notes:orange blossom, Rose, Jasmin, Rosewood, Ylang-Ylang, Orris and Carnation
Base notes: Vanilla, Mhyrrh, Olibanum, Amber, Musk, Civet and Cedar.

Eau de Cologne Impériale is one of the oldest EDC's on the market, and in my opinion one of the finest. Like many EDC's, Impériale is a "top note" fragrance. It's basic character is based primarily on an extremely fine bergamot, neroli and lemon accord. There are slight undertones as well, but you have to really smell carefully to find them. The undertones include petitgrain, lemon verbena, a mild lavender and some slight tonka and wood in the base. People who complain about this having no longevity are not familiar with this genre of fragrance. A classical eau de cologne is based on the idea of a refreshing splash. This is the oldest fragrance type with the characteristic of being fresh and natural. Natural fresh notes are made from fine essential oils with extremely high volatility. This means that the fragrance develops very quickly and is finished. If you want the experience to continue, frequent reapplication is necessary.

Bel Ami is a leather chypre scent which opens with a citrus/herbal accord dominated by bergamot tempered with lemon, petitgrain and a slight orange (mandarin?), there is a hint of herbal green as well; the heart is a floral wood accord with a jasmine center and some slight orris and carnation overlaying the woody tones of vetiver, cedar and patchouli. Lest you think that Bel Ami is a woody floral scent be aware that this is a base-note dominated fragrance. The base is leather. The leather in Bel Ami owes its character primarily to a birch tar and castoreum accord which is lightly sweetened with labdanum, tonka and vanilla and a slight oakmoss/storax undertone.

I find Bel Ami to be a very wearable and "friendly" leather scent, of great distinction.

Opus 1870 is definitely one of this house's best scents. Penhalligon's older fragrances remind me a lot of Caswell Massey's in that they tend to smell like recreations of older fragrance formulas, which end up becoming more like caricatures of themselves, and smelling rather hokey. Opus 1870 on the other hand is obviously a modern scent with traditional sensibilities, rather than a direct attempt at a recreation. From its lovely spicy opening you know that you are smelling quality. The rose heart note is lightly spiced with clove and cinnamon along with some olibanum notes. The base is a moderately rich woody musk. This is a very well done fragrance and the first one from this house that I have thoroughly enjoyed.

Blenheim Bouquet is an excellent lemon fragrance. This is a very minimalistic scent and is very refreshing. The pine is natural smelling; it's like sitting on a pine covered mountain sipping a glass of lemonade. Quite lovely, but nothing I want to smell like very frequently.

Hammam Bouquet is a very lovely, light oriental. The bergamot/lavender opening is sparkling and inviting; the floral heart opens with in moments and is warmed by notes from the amber base peeking through. The musky sandlewood/amber drydown is rich and fulfilling. It's an excellent fragrance. It's old fashioned in every good sense; I wouldn't call it a classic though. It is not a scent I want to smell every day, but it is quite good for what it is.

There is a lovely lavender opening that lasts about the blink of an eye and descends into a very boring light musk. If you like a light musk fragrance this may be your baby, but I was looking for lavender. It is a great lavender, but you will get a longer lasting lavender from just about every other lavender fragrance on the market.

Strong and smelly out of the bottle. This one is a lesson in not trusting your first impressions of a fragrance. I do, in contrast to many reviews, a distinct relationship to the original Kouros. This one takes a completely different direction, but they are clearly related. The extended dry down of Body Kouros is worth its tedious opening and palatable woody/spicy/sweetish heart. The benzoin and camphor-wood base is a prize at the bottom this box of Cracker Jack; and is well worth all the trouble. If you don't like it, give it a chance. You may change your mind in 20 to 30 minutes (or longer depending on your skin).

This is one of my very favorite lavender colognes. I love lavender with the addition of a violet note over a sandalwood base. It's very lovely. I only wish lavender was more universally desired so my favorite lavender fragrances would stop being discontinued due to lack of profit.

Cabochard is a classic green/leather chypre. Many people comment on Cabochard's similarity to Bandit. They do share many characteristics, but I find Bandit to be a drier, less floral composition which ends up smelling more masculine than Cabochard. Cabochard has a similar jasmine/ylang/leather/tobacco dance as Tabac Blond, but is more feminine and more polite than Tabac Blond. Although I can smell all three of these fragrances easily worn by a man, Cabochard seems the most feminine of the three to me. I can't see myself wearing it, but I'd love to be around a woman who does. It is a truly stunning perfume.

Havana is a masculine, complex and highly satisfying fragrance. The opening is not promising, it is a very typical Aramis type of masculine accord. It's not bad, but it is nothing terribly interesting. The fragrance develops to the heart notes on my skin in about 10 minutes. The blend of boozy, spicy, floral notes in the heart show the promise of the unbelievable home run base accord. The dry down is a long-lived woody, sweet, tobacco and balsamic treat that takes a good long while to completely develop. The sweet tobacco note lingers long after the rest of the fragrance has been spent. It is not surprising that this fragrance has been discontinued. Many of the best masculines have succumbed to the chopping block. This is up there with Patou Pour Homme as far as original, high-quality scents that have been discontinued. It is getting pricey, so buy it while you can!

This is a stripped down version of the fougere accord consisting of the interaction of a lavender top and a coumarin base (coumarin isn't listed in the notes on Penhalligon's website, but it is definitely in there). If anyone is looking for a very classic fougere fragrance, you can't get any more classic than this. I have not smelled the old Houbigant Fougere Royale, but I can imagine that English Fern has much in common with it. This type of fragrance is not common in modern perfumery any longer. The modern fougere fragrances are much more built and composed. English Fern is a perfect depiction of old-style masculine fragrance. It is not loud, but it is persistent. It is fantastic! Modern noses may have to get used to the accord but it is quite delicious.

I'd like to bathe in this intoxicating magic philter. Tabac Blond is a supreme accomplishment. Even the reformulation is a masterpiece. To call Tabac Blond a leather scent is like calling Beethoven's 6th Symphony pretty. Tabac Blond rises above all stereotypes and labels as to scent gender. It is beyond merely being unisex; she is a lion of a scent who does not discriminate among any of her pride. Tabac Blond chooses you; you don't choose her. Once you are one of her initiates, you may never return again from whence you came. I wouldn't go so far as to say that Tabac Blond is without peers, but she is definitely in a very small club indeed.

A true Guerlain classic. I find it to be extremely unisex, in that it is much less feminine than many of the popular offerings marketed to men in the past decade. Whether or not you wear it, it is an important milestone in perfumery and as such is "required sniffing" for any serious student of modern perfumery, just as Mozart string quartets should be required listening for all modern musicians or music lovers. The notes have been discussed ad nausium; just suffice it to say that this is an icon and is one of the most influential fragrances in history.

Very safe masculine chypre. I'd call this a utilitarian scent in that it can be perfect for certain types of business meetings when you don't want your fragrance to call too much attention to itself, yet be somewhat noticed. It's got a nice classic style to it, but falls a little short of being a true classic scent to me. Nice, but not a special scent. If you can get it inexpensively from Marshall's, it's worth buying it just for its usefulness.

Much more refined, and long-lasting version of Opium pour Homme. As has been stated before, the fresh, peppery elements are more subdued than in the EDT in favor of the rich, spicy oriental notes. Very long lasting and extremely powerful. This one is easy to over apply, but in moderation can be one hit of a fragrance! My favorite of the Opium pour Homme concentrations.

This one on my skin goes Straight to Hell -- Patchouli Hell that is. I don't mind patchouli, but this one on me is straight up, Haight Ashbury, hippies who haven't showered for weeks and doused themselves in patchouli oil, head-shop yuck. Not good on me. No rum, no nutmeg, no rosewood, just pure undiluted patchouli that lasts for ever, and cannot be scrubbed off with a brillo pad and a fire hose. Have I mentioned the patchouli? Bleah!

L'Anarchiste is a gorgeous fragrance that teeters on the edge but never quite jumps into the oriental and gourmande category. The neroli/mandarine head note is quite provocative. There is definitely a spiced-fruit accord that radiates through into the heart of this one, but the woody core of the heart keeps the whole composition from becoming overly sweet. The musky/woody and slightly amberic dry-down is a favorite of mine, and it lasts for hours on me. This is a sensual, sophisticated scent that doesn't have much anarchy going on, but it is certainly very good.

I tried this at Saks, and purchased it on the spot (something I rarely do). However, one hour after my purchase I noticed that the scent was disappearing very rapidly from my skin where I had sampled it. I turned around and returned the purchase. It is a lovely lavender fragrance. From the notes listed on the brochure it should smell like a fougere, but it was pretty strictly a lavender fragrance. It is gorgeous, but much too short-lived on my skin to warrant the price tag of $225. I can get my lavender fix just as easily from other sources for a much more affordable price.

Bottom line: Great Lavender; Extremely overpriced.

I purchased this at Saks the moment it was available. I actually am surprised that I'm enjoying it as much as I am. Perhaps the fact that Guerlain Homme has gotten some pretty bad press on the Basenotes boards made it easier for me to like it, since my expectations were so low. I admit that had this not been a Guerlain scent, I would likely not have given it a second sniff. However, I'm glad I did.

This is definitely one of the best of this genre IMO. It is lovely. The opening is a very refreshing type of citrus smell. The citrus, mint accord (and I definitely smell the "mojito" accord that is listed in the pyramid) actually lasts well into the heart and dry-down of the scent. This in and of itself is quite an accomplishment. There is a light/white floral accord in the center and a subtle, woody/light musk dry down. The Guerlainade is actually present in this one as well. I was quite surprised, as I had heard others say the Guerlinade was absent, but it is there in a somewhat muted but obvious manner.

Guerlain Homme may not be ground breaking, but it does break ground for Guerlain, in that it will quite possibly be a huge seller for this house. If indeed the goal was to create a best-selling high quality men's fragrance at a moderate price-point, Guerlain has succeeded on all accounts. I say Bravo!

I used to wear this a lot. It is obviously well blended and the fragrance materials within it are very good. I just stopped liking it after a while. After a while it was as if I was wearing a big giant vanilla/sandalwood tart on my chest. It has a definite warmth to it and for what it is it is very good, but I just couldn't take it any more and finally gave it away. It definitely has its admirers and I think it serves its purpose, but I can't see myself ever wearing it again.

A classic woody chypre. Bergamot top, patchouli heart and amber/moss base. It doesn't get more classic than this.
Along with the bergamot, the top notes have a honeyed rose hue to them with a hint of lemon; in the heart, there is an ever so slight jasmine/orris accord overlaying the patchouli with a reserved vetiver/cedar accord giving it it's woody brace. The drydown does show some leather components but there is a sweet mossiness to it that doesn't take it into a pure leather accord. The whole scent has a discreet musk backdrop that adds an extra bit of understated sensuality.

A fine eau de toilette indeed! I find it to be versatile, and not at all dated.

If we remember to take into account the low cost of this fragrance, it isn't a bad fig; Trying to compare this one to Philosykos by Diptyque, or Fig and Cassis by Jo Malone is not quite fair; there would be no way to have a fig of the calibre of these two at Marc Jacob's price. For anyone who can't afford to spend big dollars and wants a halfway decent fig scent I'm happy for you that Marc Jacobs came out with this one. I for one am willing to forego instant gratification and save my pennies as I much prefer Fico di Amalfi by Aqua di Parma.

This is one of the Vetiver benchmarks in my opinion. It is somewhat less composed and truer to a pure vetiver note that Guerlain's. I love both Givenchy and Guerlain's take on vetiver. They are very different from each other. This one doesn't have as much of a citrus explosion on top, nor do I detect any tobacco as I do in the Guerlain. There is definitely an herbal/spicy note in the middle, perhaps it's the cilantro note that JaimieB is describing. The sandalwood is barely perceptible. This is not a variation on the theme of vetiver, which Guerlain tends to be IMO (and a brilliant variation at that). To my nose, while I would not go so far as calling Givenchy Vetiver a single note fragrance, it is very clear who is the star of this show, and none of the supporting cast get many lines. The other notes are like a very subtle frame on a striking painting. This is a brilliant take on the Vetiver concept, and it is one of the best on the market.

This is a classic in the chyphre-fresh category. The interplay of the citrus top and oakmoss base make the chyphre chord strike; but the chord is struck in a very subtle and sophisticated manner. The lavender heart helps to make this guy purr. And the subtle sandalwood base also rounds things out and makes MdG a pure delight to wear. I'm so glad I was able to get a bottle of the new reissued version of this scent. They did not scrimp on the oakmoss. One of the good things about the cosmetic and fragrance industry restricting certain materials, is that you can read on the label and see for yourself if certain things really in there. I'm sure MdG won't last long, since it is getting very hard to find. My suggestion is that if you see it, try it. If you like it, don't wait to buy it.

A somewhat linear accord with highlights including pepper/vetiver/cedar and discreet florals. Less minimalistic than many other offerings by Ellena. Wonderful sillage, and a truly terrific overall effect. To me, this smells like Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande fleshed out into a fuller perfumistic composition. I can see myself wearing this often and receiving many complements from it. Terre d'Hermès is a real winner, especially for us lovers of pepper and vetiver.

Bright citrus pepper opening. Elemi is predominant, so if you don't care for this note you will be put off by Oscar for Men. The top notes last for quite a while and meld fairly seamlessly to the green floral heart. The base is a typical woody/incense accord. Overall this fragrance is well done, it's just not anything original. It's in very moderate rotation in my collection. Even though the sillage is fairly strong, Oscar for Men is perfect for days I want a fresh scent that doesn't stand out to much. Well done, but rather boring. Worth picking up if you find it in a bargain bin like I did ($12.00 for 100 ml.).

This is a clean, green, soapy machine; and I like it a lot. The floral heart and woody/incense base help this one stay centered and not get lost in a sea of lather and suds. It's got a bit of sweetness and backbone that is really missing in a lot of these clean scents. The oriental notes in the bottom help pull it away from the soapy top, and the green fresh notes help keep it clean and not overtly incense. The floral notes are really the star of this show; we still don't find a plethora of jasmine in masculine perfumery and this note is handled with great discretion in Cerruti.

Very nice animalic oriental. I don't know if I agree that this is a light fragrance. It seems rather complex and rich to me. Citrus, flowers, spice, sandalwood, civet and vanilla combine to make a very sensual experience. The civet is pronounced, but it mellows out after about 20 to 30 minutes. Longevity and sillage are medium on my skin. I own only Ungaro II and III, I wear them both a lot.

This is definitely one nice smell when it first hits the skin. I love the way the petitgrain is utilized. This is a bracing, but sophisticated and smoothly fresh EDC type of opening. The mid notes are slightly woody, still rather fresh with a bit of floral and herbal undertones. Very masculine, but as foetidus notes, very fresh. This is a somewhat uplifting fragrance for me. I didn't know what to expect when people told me it was very Mediterranean; It's very lovely, fresh and sophisticated. The base has that lovely smell of freshly crushed tonka beans; one of my very favorite smells! Seems like a very good "daytime" scent, although I can't see how you could ever be out of place wearing it.

I love the fruity note combined with rosewood in the opening. The spicy rose heart note is tempered by the top notes and is sensual, but not allowed to lose its dignity. The creamy woods in the base are sweet, musky, slightly amberic and complex. I'm very partial to the scents from the House of Chanel, and this is one of their best. Interestingly enough, I have always enjoyed this scent and still have never tried the platinum version.

I never smelled Ungaro I. I love the other two. Ungaro III is definitely more upbeat than Ungaro II. Ungaro III has a fruity accord going on in the top that helps to balance out the darkness of the rest of the perfume. It ends up smelling rather sophisticated and sexy. Overall Ungaro III is a very complex scent that balances fruits, citrus, spices and lavender in the opening, the heart is a seamlessly blended accord of woods and flowers overlapping the musky resinous mossy and amberic base. But don't get the impression that it is an overly sweet jaunt. Ungaro III smells like a chyphre type of scent to me. It's very well done. Not as sensual as Ungaro II, It's less animalic and thus perhaps with more wide-spread appeal than its predecessor.

Talk about a trip down memory lane! This one, along with Old Spice, brings back memories of my childhood. I love the smell, it's a true classic. It's a little bit barber shop fougere, a little bit spicy oriental, and a little bit tobacco chyphre. There is no other scent like it. This isn't something I wear very often, but there is something very comforting about knowing that it's there. Tabac is extremely long lasting. A little dab 'll do ya.

This review is for Opium pour Homme Eau d'Orient Poésie de Chine (2008). It is a lovely, more transparent rethinking of Opium pour Homme. I haven't smelled the other Eau d'Orient versions so I have no basis for comparison. The first thing that came to mind when I sprayed this on is "Opium Eau de Cologne." The grapefruit on the top lightens the whole Opium effect without changing the composition into an entirely new fragrance altogether. A great anise/nutmeg accord sits in the heart of this one with a subtle dose of ginger and a grinding of lightly honeyed pepper. The dry down is lighter than original Opium consisting of a lovely sandalwood/amber and significantly less vanilla. With all of this lightening up of the fragrance one might think that it strays far from the original; however, there is never any doubt this is Opium. I think it's a great summer scent for Opium lovers who wouldn't dare touch the regular in the hotter months. I'm an Opium lover anyway (especially the EDP). Opium may not be the most sophisticated scent in my wardrobe, but it's a lot of fun to wear and I'm glad I have several concentrations to choose from.

This was one of the few blind buys I've ever made. Most of the fragrances in my wardrobe I enjoy, or I wouldn't have bought them. The only reason I bought a mini of this was based on Luca Turin's review. I have tried and tried to like it. I thought it might grow on me, but every time I smell it I just think "Bleah." To me, Beyond Paradise for Men is a headache inducing melange of very synthetic smelling abstract notes that create an extremely unpleasant dissonance. I don't like how it smells on a blotter, I don't like it out of the bottle, and I don't like it on my skin. I find it thoroughly unpleasant. There are several fragrances that I don't enjoy yet I can still appreciate their composition; Yet I don't smell the artistry that others have described in this one at all. This is the worst fragrance I own.

This is an excellent green fresh Chyphre. I bought the extreme version, which I think is smoother than the original. I'm not a huge fan of Drakar Noir, and although I can smell some similarities, I actually like this one. It's dry, green and a bit woody with a tasteful hint of some leather in the base. D.V. is a well made sophisticated scent which eschews all the sweet and balsamic notes that I'm often attracted to, so it's a nice addition to my wardrobe.

Coriolan is a chyphre of great distinction. I love the entire composition. This is one fragrance where I don't even want to try to pick out the separate notes. Sillage isn't an issue for me with this one. I leave lovely scent trails wherever I go! I don't know if unisex or androgynous is the appropriate term for this scent, but it's definitely not a "macho" powerhouse. I love wearing it. It was nice at first and then it really grew on me. I had heard from several people that Coriolan was not one of Guerlain's best masculines, but I respectfully disagree. Just because a product is a commercial flop doesn't mean a thing to me. It is up there with the greats as far as I'm concerned. The bottle is pretty nifty too!

A floral with woody undertones. I mostly smell orris root. It's quite a nice smell, but only if I'm not suffering hayfever at the time, otherwise this one aggravates my allergies. Very nice though.

I own it for the great bottle. I have the EDT. There is no way I could ever pull this one off as a masculine. It is strong, sweet, powdery perfume. This is one that I would definitely associate with the old lady sweet powder perfume. Very well done, but I really don't see how anyone thinks this is unisex at all. Maybe the Pure Parfum is less powdery?

Équipage is a lovely masculine floral. The scent opens with a sparkle. A muguet accord in a top note is not extremely common in masculine perfumery, but in Guy Robert's hands it is handled with great discernment. The carnation and pine poke through and lend a more masculine feel to the whole gentle dance, while the jasmine note stays coyly in the background giving support and ambiance. I also smell a distinct clove zing which is probably some type of eugenol being used in the carnation accord. The Vetiver draws the floral notes down into the base of the fragrance until all that is left is a soft woody leather effect. It's a very tender fragrance. I was too young to wear Équipage when it was introduced but I suspect that floral chyphre scents where probably not very common among men in 1970. I would venture to assume this was somewhat groundbreaking in its day.

YSL pour Homme is a perfect daytime scent. The Citrus is sharp and clean, the herbal spice is moderate and the vetiver bottom allows for above average dry down. To me it is a clear-cut scent, and I don't get any of the references to BO, or dated '70s cologne that others seem to get. It's a timeless professional smelling scent executed masterfully.

About 35 years ago (when I was a VERY young boy mind you), I was given a little miniature bottle of Guerlain Vetiver along with a couple minis of some other scents which I can't remember. I loved Vetiver and wore it often. I'm pretty sure I was the only kid my age wearing cologne at that time, but I drained that bottle. I had pretty much forgotten about this one until fairly recently. I have heard that our memories of smells are fairly accurate, and to my nose this one smells identical to the one I had all those years ago. I read of how horrible the current incarnation of Vetiver is since all the reformulations, but I still love it as much as I did when I was a kid. It's a classic spicy, woody, citrus, tobacco scent that works for me in all times and in all situations. I hope I'm never without it!

Trafalgar is a spicy little jasmine number with below average longevity and sillage. The pyramid denies any trace of a fruit note, but it is easily perceived as having a couple of mellon balls floating inside. It's a polite scent which I can't imagine causing offense in any manner. I like it well enough, but I tend to grow tired of it after a while (so it's a good thing it doesn't last all that long). I liked it in the store, so I bought it; but I doubt I'll make it through my whole bottle. If I do, I really doubt I'd buy a new one.

I detest the opening. For some reason this particular lavender/citrus accord on the top with tons of clove poking through doesn't work at all well on my skin. When I first tried it I thought, "Oh God, this is gross!" I was growing very tired of giving it time do develop and was on my way to the sink to wash it off when all of a sudden the musk/vanilla/sandal accord (which is the true star of this show) materialized at once. My heart melted! Mmmm! As if I was channeling Edina Monsoon, I yelled "This is the one, sweetie!" I am making it through the very generous sample sent to me by the good people at Frederic Malle, and I'll be ordering myself a nice big bottle of this juice! I may even learn to love that strange opening.

I like it, but I know Tom Ford is capable of scents that are much more interesting. The quality is there, the sillage and longevity are all excellent, but it becomes a little, "so what" to me after a while. I'm glad I own it, but I rarely wear it, since there are so many more interesting fragrances which I find much more pleasing in my wardrobe. My purchase of this one is an example of one of the rare times I allowed myself to purchase a fragrance based on sales hype rather than my nose. Not a stinker by any sense of the imagination, but it smells pretty mediocre to me. Who knows? It may grow on me like so many others have. I haven't given up on it yet.

My perception of Timbucktu is a dry, peppery/floral accord on a couch of masculine olibanum and anchored to a base of myrrh and vetiver. I love it. This scent has incenses but it's dry and wearable, not churchy. This is a thoroughly composed perfume with no pretense whatsoever. I have worn it in many types of occasions: business, casual and formal, and it always feels right in place!

I'm not often in the mood for a barbershop fix, but some situations call for it more than others. This is one of the better of this category of fragrances available. Rive Gauch PH ties with Azzaro in my book for "barber shop" fougere scents, the dry down is excellent!

Patou pour Homme Privé has one of the best lavender accords I've smelled balanced with a base which creates a dance somewhere between a fougère and an oriental. The lavendar seems to last far into the life of the fragrance. This scent is fresher and more pleasing to my nose in its upper accords than Patou pour Homme, but equally as satisfying in the extended dry down of woods and resins. As is so common, something this good is not commercially available and is getting increasingly more difficult to find.

Patou pour Homme is one of the finest men's scents I am fortunate enough to own. It starts out very herbaceous and loud. I'm not partial to the opening personally. It seems to die out almost completely when it reaches the carnation phase and then out of nowhere the woods (excellent sandalwood among them), mosses and labdanum rise up like a phoenix from the ashes. This final phase lasts for hours and hours on me. FYI, if you like this one, you may want to find a bottle of Maxim's PH and see if it doesn't suit your liking as well.

Oscar de la Renta pour Lui is an excellent masculine chyphre. This is one powerful blast of flowers, woods and spices. I detect a nice dose of leather in the dry down on my skin that lasts for hours. Perfect for those moods when you want to be noticed!

Everyone has already said it all. Sweet, spicy, woody, balsamic oriental goodness. If you don't like sweet, you may not like Opium PH. I love it.

Caron is such a wonderful house. They have given me some of my favorite scents. I don't know if I agree with Luca Turin's comment about Troisième being too just too pretty, but I do like it a lot. It's a type of fougère but the lavender is treated very lightly. There is a soft herbaceous accord on the top which transforms itself into a floral sweetness which then moves into an unexpected woody base which leaves its undeniable mark and then dries down yet again into a soft ambery vanilla. How many colognes is this? Maybe they should have called it the Fourth Man. Life's too short to wear anything but the best, so I'm glad I have Number 3 in my wardrobe!

I was at Heathrow airport in the new terminal 5 a while back. We had some insane layover, so we decided to do what any normal American would do, we went shopping. I can't remember the store we found the Tom Ford Private Collection in, but I had never actually smelled any of them, so I was freaking out with excitement. My S.O. knows I'm into scents but didn't understand the true depth of my condition until that moment. I remember being mesmerized only by one in the collection at the time, and it was Noir de Noir. The dollar being weak, I was talked into waiting to make a purchase until I got back in the States. I couldn't stop thinking about that gorgeous rose! I don't usually go gaga over rose scents, but this one had me transfixed. I had no idea where to find it. As luck would have it my local Nordstrom is the only one in the chain that carries the line and I was able to buy a bottle.

Noir de Noir is deep and sensual to me. It has that saffron/rose thing going on throughout the whole development. The oud is always there lurking in the background making its presence known. I'm not sure I would know how to pick out the black truffle note. I've eaten a truffle before, but I have never smelled truffle absolute. I'm sure it has a lot to do with the mysterious depth of character to this perfume which is very anchored to a mossy bottom note. The whole experience lasts for a very long time before it finally dries down to a vanilla accord that seems to be the base in many of the Tom Ford Private Collection. I'm still on the fence about several of the Ford line, but this is a real winner in my book. I'm only glad I didn't have to fly back across the Atlantic to find it again!

Nicolai Pour Homme is a scent that is very wearable for me. I love the opening. I don't object to mint as much as a lot of reviewers here do, but even so the mint is dealt with very delicately in this scent. This scent is green, but not too green, woody but not too woody. It's a fougère but not completely. It's masculine but not too masculine. I was addicted to it when I first bought it. I still reach for it frequently. People aren't used to a fragrance like this as it is so unique, so I get many compliments when I wear it. It's a nice one this.

Patricia de Nicolai is one of my favorite perfume artists. It is largely because of New York that I hold her in such high esteem. To me New York is Nicolai's homage to her Guerlain heritage. It is very Guerlainesque. Although they are very different fragrances to New York, I smell a tip of the hat to both Mouchoir de Monsieur and Habit Rouge. When she first launched New York Nicolai described it simply as a masculine oriental. And what an oriental it is! With its lavender/citrus opening New York begins its harmonious but complex spicy/resinous/woody symphony. It lasts a good long time, and it smells sublime! One of my top ten favorite masculine scents, New York is Nicolai's Tour de Force.

Mouchoir de Monsieur is another historic Guerlain masterpiece that I'm glad I own. It's obvious (to me) that it is Jicky's brother. I enjoy MdM when I don't want the in your face civet of Jicky (although Jicky carries it masterfully). This is a classic gentleman's scent which you won't smell many men wearing. It is a sophisticated lavender topped fougère that cannot fall out of fashion. I treasure my bottle because one never knows about these classics being available in the future.

Mitsouko is one of a handful perfumes marketed to women that I wear comfortably. I find the EDT works well as a masculine on my skin. It is a mystical experience to wear a chyphre that is so beautifully constructed yet stripped down to its basic structure. Along with that famous peach note, it is a striking chord: Bergamot and Oakmoss. What a concept, and executed magnificently by Jaques Guerlain. The reformulations don't bother me one bit. It's still Mitsouko, and it smells divine. I'm just glad that my skin wears it well, and I don't end up smelling like my Grandmother!

Maxim's PH reminds me a lot of the experience I get when I wear Patou PH. Not as spicy, but many similarities. It is absolutely lovely. I don't really smell the 80's in this one at all. It smells extremely classic, elegant and French. From the lavender/citrus opening through the masculine florals into the delicious woods and resins in its base, this is a real winner. Maxim's is one of my very favorite masculine scents.

I can certainly understand the objections to the smell of Agarwood from many people in M7. Yet in my experience, once applied the medicinal smell is transformed immediately into a gorgeously sexy woody accord. I'm not sure about actual mandrake root in this fragrance, but it certainly has a magical effect on me when I wear it. A winner on my skin!

Woody, aromatic, sensual, slightly animalic.

I can't really detect the notes as separate components in this one. It's a gorgeous melange of wood, leather, resin, cocoa and vanilla all rolled into a gorgeous symphony, with a classic guerlinade dry-down. I love it and wear it often. Guerlain is one of my all-time favorite houses and they certainly didn't disappoint with L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme.

This is a fantastic scent. I love Knize Ten. It's a classic leather scent that has stood the test of time. It starts with a citrus blast but the leather is there from the start too; the heart and base notes add a sweetness and tobacco element to the leather and it dries down with a bit of powder. It seems to be a like it or hate it scent. I can only walk through a mist of this one, or it gets overpowering. It lasts well, and makes me feel very good!

Orange, patchouli and vanilla. Another great hippy creation from Lush. I adore Lush's bath and body products, but never really have liked the EDT scents they have produced. Karma smells divine in the body cream but it gets too sweet and cloying in EDT formulation. I give the cream a four star rating: it is all about the orange and patchouli and less about the cotton candy type of vanilla; but the EDT gets a two star rating from me for being much too candy sweet.

I love Jicky. This is were I come to get my Civet fix; the civet is there but never makes my nose curl. Jicky is fresh, refined and nasty all at the same time. This one must never be discontinued, or we might actually have a riot!

When I first smelled Jazz I thought, "Nice, but big deal." I sprayed myself and went on with my day. Throughout the day I kept smelling the most lovely fresh/spicy/woody/sweet accord wafting in and out and I knew this was a winner! This is right now my favorite YSL fragrance. It is so well balanced between the freshness of the top and the spiciness and woody leather of the heart and dry down. Sublime!

Héritage may have been an homage to Guerlain's past, yet it bridges the past into a modern sensibility quite deftly. Spicy, boozy, rich and restrained. It balances sweet spicy and woody throughout its development. The opening of spiced-up lavender guides us into the heart of oh so delicately spiced rose hidden masterfully behind the base of woods, vanilla and guerlinade dry down. Seamless, sophisticated and lovely to smell.

It's obvious that each component of the Hermèssence line is meant to be a minimalist interpretation of the name of the perfume in question. Bearing that in mind, and not expecting more than that, this is a very good quality vetiver/tonka perfume. I wear it occasionally, but there are so many vetiver interpretations that better suit me that I rarely reach for it. Ellena is quite brilliant and never ceases to produce quality products. His sensibilities are different than mine, but I can still appreciate his work for what it is.

Linear fruity rose. It's nice and not too feminine, but lasts but a moment and then disappears. I wouldn't miss it if I ran out.

Of all the Hermèssence line this is my favorite. I smell a stark pepper/cedar accord, and it stays pretty linear through the dry down. For my pepper fix I prefer something a bit more composed and less minimalist such as Red Vetiver, Terre d'Hermes or Timbuktu. But it is a finely crafted scent. Ellana certainly shows his artistry here.

One of my all time favorite EDC concoctions. I disagree with the feminine classification here on Basenotes. When I bought it from PD Nicolai she was describing it as unisex, and I would agree. This is a masterful brew. If you like lavender, this is one of the finest treatments of lavender you will ever smell. It is not very long lasting, but it is truly divine.

There are several fragrance masterpieces which I can appreciate, but don't enjoy wearing (Kouros being one of them). Yet Habit Rouge is masterpiece which is highly wearable in all it's phases of development. This is one of my all-time favorite scents. I'd want it packed in my bags if I were on the proverbial desert island. This should be required sniffing for every young man to teach him what a balanced fragrance smells like. From its citrus blast opening through its floral woody heart all the way down to the sensual vanilla, resinous and slightly animalic base, Habit Rouge is seamless. It is a testament to divine artistry in perfume, and best of all, it smells divine!

It's a classic alright. I loved smelling it on others when I was a kid, but it's not something I reach for very often as an adult. It's well constructed and quite green with a great big violet leaf blow in the face. Once it settles down into a bit of wood, it still keeps a lot of the green alive and turns rather linear. I like it, but I don't really want to smell like it. I appreciate it and would hate to see it discontinued after all these years.

This is actually not a bad fragrance. It smells a bit hippy, and it's a lot of fun. I wouldn't call it a serious fragrance, nor do I think it is meant to be. The Ginger scented creme is much better smelling than the EDT in my opinion.

This is in my top 5 favorite EDC creations. My other favorites being Cologne Sologne, Guerlain EDC, Eau Savage and Eau Provence. It is the epitome of class and freshness. I can't help being in a good mood when I wear it. I just need to make sure I have a bottle handy when I do wear it since the longevity is very typical of an EDC, thus reapplication is necessary if I want it to last. There are so many EDC's to choose from but this is one of the best, and worth every penny.

The Concentrée is actually a very good adaptation of this scent into a chypre concept.

Fresh and sophisticated. Not terribly long lasting. This is a classic that I have loved for years. My perfect day time scent. I love the play of citrus and herbs. IMO this is the best men's citrus scent ever made.

I like this one. There are definitely a lot of dirtier fragrances out there. This one is actually pretty tame and polite to my nose. It's citrus and woods with a bit of patchouli mixed in. I don't smell the agar at all... This one is a good play it safe scent.

I loved this one at first sniff, and still love it today. I think that Iris has been much too feminized over the years and its nice to smell some decent masculine interpretations of the scent. That being said, I could easily imagine a woman wearing Dior Homme. It is really the best offering of 2005.

I would describe this one as cheap and cheerful. Nothing exceptional, but very wearable. I have gotten compliments on it when wearing it in public. It is sweet and fruity, but it never seems to go over the edge to being unbearable sweet or gourmand on my skin. I'd probably not buy it again, but it seems to be an inoffensive, wearable and pretty versatile little number.

I really love wearing Carven Homme. It has a lovely spicy lavender opening with a burst of rosewood. The sweetness of the vanilla is apparent almost immediately to me but it is a very controlled, never cloying sweetness which houses the geranium and also the wood, which to my nose is the central theme to the scent. The pyramid lists cedar as the wood component, but I detect some vetiver as well. The woods last well through the dry down resting on a lovely vanilla, coumarin, patchouli and musk cushion. This fragrance is proof positive that expensive and high-quality are not necessarily synonymous.

Kouros is anything but boring. It is definitely a classic and one which I have always found quite challenging. This is a scent for me to appreciate but not one which I find immediately appealing. It is obviously a work of great merit. Upon first application I feel a definite gag reflex. It reminds me instantly of public restrooms being cleaned at an airport. One might wonder why anyone would want to smell like this. The magic of this fragrance for me is that when my nose is at my wrist Kouros is disgusting. Yet the sillage itself is actually quite balanced. There is an alchemy which happens in that the aura of the scent is actually quite magnificent and none of the gut wrenching gag notes which I smell up close are present.

Much like a Vagnerian opera can be difficult for a first time listener to enjoy, so does Kouros offer a challenge to many at first smell. It just doesn't smell pretty; yet there is a difference between pretty and beautiful. Kouros is a mighty scent. It is, along with the man who wears it, a definite force to be reckoned with.

This is the finest masculine leather I own. I wonder if it will ever be reintroduced here in the States. It is so well constructed that the development is seamless. It is so seamless in fact that it easy to perceive it as a linear scent. This is for me the perfect leather chyphre. Elegant, sophisticated and extremely wearable.

This is an androgynous scent to me. It smells much drier and more masculine than Tabac Blonde (with which it is often compared). They are both leather scents but the similarity stops there. It starts out with a lovely citrus. Then a smokey floral peeks through for about an hour; and the dry down which seems to go on for quite a long time is satisfyingly animalic (leather and civet is what I get). I have not smelled the original, but this one does seem to have a castoreum element in it (synthetic I'm sure), although it is extremely subdued and well blended. It's expensive, but worth every penny! It's so good, that I can't understand why it hasn't been discontinued.

Ooo La La! I love this scent! I have always been a lover of the original Eau D'Orange Verte; Where the original is a sublime EDC, the concentrée is a brilliant reinterpretation of the original using the chypre concept. Unlike many concentrée versions which are actually completely new scents altogether this one really stays honed in on its predecessor. The opening smells more of basil to my nose but the whole effect is much darker than the original. The sillage is a knockout! It lasts for a longer time than the original and dries down a bit leathery. Yum.

If you like fresh lime, this is your baby. I love it, but I don't seem to reach for it very often. You will never offend wearing Cologne Nature. But even for an EDC, it is extremely short lived. Even sprayed on fabric you get 30 minutes tops. I'd give it a thumbs up but this longevity is poor even for a citrus.

I actually agree with Luca Turin on this one. Azzaro PH is a definite classic. It may seem like a typical fougère at first but it actually smells more herbaceous to me then many of its siblings. It has a constant intriguing interplay of fresh, herbal, spice and animal that helps it to stand on its own in the midst of a very crowded fragrance family. It starts out with a roar but soon dries in to a full blown purr on my skin. I love it, and I'm happy to say it loves me back!

This is a very classic chypre type of masculine scent, fresh opening and slightly sweet dry down. It has the longevity of a typical EDC, so it is perfect for day wear and for when I want something light and lovely. It's a shame that it has been discontinued in the States. I'd better get some in Europe before it gets pulled all together. People may find it blasphemous, but I actually prefer the smell of the Concentre over this one, although to be honest comparing the two is comparing apples to oranges.

Unlike Luca Turin, I find this to be a five star fragrance. I think the reason some people are turned off by this scent is that they are looking for a longer lasting version of the original PM. I do feel that this has much in common with the original in its opening blast of citrus, but it very quickly turns to a rich and deep oriental. For people looking for the Chypre/after-shave smelling original I can understand their disappointment. Perhaps Chanel would have been smarter by just renaming this juice all together to avoid the confusion.

PHC is in my top 10 men's orientals right next to Nicolai's New York. The blend is perfect. It's extremely long lasting and the sillage is perfect: not to far and not too close to the skin. It works best in the evenings, but I have been known to walk through a thin mist in the morning before work and let everyone get a vague sniff of something extraordinary!

I wear several scents which are classified as feminine, namely Y, Bandit, Cuir de Russie (Chanel), and "Tabac Blonde;" yet for a so-called masculine scent, Castille smells too much of a feminine floral on my skin for me to enjoy it. It also smells to my nose somewhat synthetic and tends to give me a headache. Sorry, but this one may be well made and all, but I just can't bring myself to like it as much as I have tried.

That's some gorgeous lavender! I Caron Pour Un Homme for just the top note alone! But lest anyone ever get the impression that (as is stated in the H&R Directory) that this is a simple lavender fragrance, there is a short journey through a rose and wood heart which leads right down into a mossy vanilla base that lasts on my skin for hours. It's not listed in the pyramid but I distinctly smell a civet note as well which gives the clean lavender note just the right dose of grit to make this one a real winner! Damn convention. I wear this anywhere and at anytime. It is just that gorgeous,