Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by Nukapai

Showing all 118 reviews

parfums*PARFUMS Series 5 Sherbet: Rhubarb by Comme des Garçons

Very nicely done, accurate, tart rhubarb. It's green, zesty and mouth-watering at start and doesn't evolve much for the first hour or so. You do get a slightly sweeter, slightly candied feel after that (although that might be just the thing I do to perfumes anyway - turn them sweet almost regardless), but the feeling of being under a giant rhubarb leaf in the summer never disappears. The longevity could be better, but midling lasting power is understandable for a scent like this.
15 November 2008

Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The first 15-20 minutes are a very accurate olfactory representation of loose roll-up tobacco (specifically: Golden Virginia, which is slightly honeyed).

It then dries to more of a gingery/sweet/perfume scent, which is very pleasant.

However, I find the roll-up tobacco element interesting and unsettling at the same time, so I have to say that Tea for Two is not "my cup of tea". (Haha).
15 November 2008

Tocade by Rochas

The immediate opening is reminiscent of the smell of children's pink liquid antibiotic medicine (I swear!). That mercifully goes quite quickly and the rose/vanilla combo sets into what will be a strong, linear path for several hours. This is one of the few rose-themed perfumes I enjoy wearing because really, let's be honest, it doesn't smell of rose; it smells of vanilla and amber soured with a geranium note. Quite nicely done and I must confess I am a fan of Maurice's scents even though I don't personally always like to wear them all.

Several hours into the development, my favourite part of Tocade unwraps itself: it is a soapy, soft, vanilla-ambery skin-scent and extremely cuddly and sensual. I wish it got to this stage faster. It's definitely worth waiting for, but the fact that I only really love Tocade from the middle down, earns it a neutral rather than thumbs-up.
22 October 2008

Fleur Oriental by Miller Harris

It's a HUGE, HUGE... baby powder oriental. Honey, I blew up the kids and they're crawling all over mommy's Shalimar!

Beautiful and terrifying. I'm impressed with the lasting power and the feeling one gets of two distinct layers; the amplified baby powder sitting on top of a rich, sensual oriental base. The powder mellows quite a bit in the drydown, but it never leaves entirely.
20 October 2008

Leiber by Leiber

The opening is fresh, potent, 90-s glam perfumey (but in the nicest possible way) - and it threw me for a few minutes because it reminded me of several scents at once. I had Rive Gauche and even the chypre Y run through my head, but it's only after the heart notes started warming up that I realised: Leiber seems closely related to Ralph Lauren Safari. It's like Leiber is Safari's sexy daughter who wears just a little bit less velvet.
08 October 2008

Pleasures Delight by Estée Lauder

This is the only gourmand to date that agrees with me. The only element that feels off-balance is the overly sweet opening. The "strawberry meringue" note (as described by Lauder) is really quite potent at first, but mellows very soon to the sort of smell that you'd have on your fingers after eating strawberries on a summer picnic; warm, juicy, softened by the (now emerging) vanilla notes.

Florals develop about 2 hours in and the sweetness is rounded by more powdery vanilla and a sort of icing sugar over-warm skin; slightly caramel note.

I enjoy baking, and wearing this makes me feel like I've just spent the day making strawberry tarts and Victoria sponges; then applied some sweet floral perfume, allowed it to settle for a few hours and then hosted a tea party in the garden (featuring the aforementioned baked goods).

This will probably put many people off (and I almost wasn't sure myself at first, especially because my skin does tend to turn scents very sweet anyway).

But when in a mood for a comforting, cosseting scent, this is a good option. This has been well put together and I've enjoyed enough to get the body lotion too, which softens the effect and feels very enjoyable. A thumbs up!
12 July 2008

Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

It's sensual warm skin - and very masculine, yet sweet. It's the kind of smell I adore and I really admire how it develops. Maurice's sexy signature is showing here. I just don't think I can wear Musc Ravageur, unless a gorgeous man wore it to bed and some of it rubbed off on me. (Must give this to husband).
12 July 2008

Jasmin 17 by Le Labo

Jasmine notes are usually dirty and honeyed (in a nice, carnal way of course). Jasmin 17 by Le Labo is a deodorised, powdered, soapy jasmine; quite linear and with surprising lasting power. I am a fan of florals and enjoy it, but wouldn't describe it as a "typical" jasmine at all.

It's one of those you try on your skin and think: "Hmm, quite nice" and by the time you've worn it for a day you feel attached to the scent and want more of it. It's not sultry, but it's sexy in a way that would get someone to lean closer to sniff just exactly what it is that makes your skin smell so inviting.

I might be a little taken by Maurice Roucel...
12 July 2008

Mitsouko by Guerlain

I am lucky because I live in a world in which Mitsouko exists. I am lucky because Mitsouko likes my body chemistry. I want to put this marvel on a pedestal above the rest of my perfume wardrobe; to give it 6 stars instead of 5.

It is a perfume to be sampled on your skin - for an important reason - this is an old style fragrance that needs your skin as the final element of its composition (much more so than some of the created-to-be-fail-safe modern scents do).

For me, Mitsouko opens with a sparkling, mouth-watering bergamot and a hint of fruit (the fruit - like a peach that has been crystallised, dusted with vanilla, ground to a powder and sprinkled on top of the bergamot). This experience lasts just seconds, after which the fruit fades and the spices, nutty, papery, leathery and soothing powdery aromas come forth. This stage lasts at least an hour - then - the fruit returns, but this time it's covered in cream and caramel, accompanied by sexy woody notes and smoky green vetiver. This lasts for a good couple of hours; then fades to resins, wood and hint of powdery vanilla.

This composition and its development on my skin is interesting, sensual and wearable. My husband likes the smell very much and I like it on me too. It's one to wear when I want to feel comfortable in my skin, confident, sexy and grown-up feminine; without the sweeties.

I like the smell of books, old libraries, leather, pipe tobacco, spices, peaches, apricot, bergamot, jasmine and florals - and I don't care much for the overly "aquatic" aldehyde fragrances, or for the popular "melon" note. I also used to adore very sweet florals (Paris, Jardins de Bagatelle) and still happily wear the latter one of the two. Most of my everyday scents are fairly uncomplicated florals. This doesn't mean I can't also enjoy a walk on the Mitsouko side.

This is one to try and see; don't make up your mind until you've put some on your skin.
12 July 2008

Lipstick Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Very accurate Lancome lipstick smell (circa 1980). If I was still a full-time make-up artist, I'd probably wear this to work for the comedy value! It's a pretty smell, doesn't offend, but it's perhaps not one to make you feel particularly sensual, serious or sexy. It certainly DOES make you feel frivolous! It also reminds me of old face powder and theatre dressing rooms. Nice olfactory story!
14 August 2008

Chelsea Flowers by Bond No. 9

I'm a fan of florals, don't get me wrong, but Chelsea Flowers seemed to me like a slightly too "pretty" flower-shop scent, but it just didn't strike me as particularly wearable or amazing. I'm developing a theory that Bond #9 line of fragrances is aimed at people for whom money is no object and the very act of purchasing a scent that's "nice", but not remarkable, but at Bond's prices, is a huge status symbol in the manner of: "Hey, I can afford to pay this much for something that's just plain NICE. How about that?"
10 August 2008

Eau de New York by Bond No. 9

A stunning citrus cologne opening, done very well without abrasiveness, a very wearable fresh-chypre scent soon emerges and I kept sniffing myself where I'd sprayed the fragrance, nodding appreciatively and wanting to find just something stunningly unique in there to tip the balance over from "very nice" to "it's worth this much money". Eau de New York is really lovely and I'd wear it, but perhaps not fall-in-love stunning for this price. If I was wealthy and money was no object, I would have bought a bottle with no questions asked. Perhaps that's the point?
10 August 2008

Fleurs de Sel by Miller Harris

Fleurs de Sel smells like a very good, aged whisky, which might be very nice for some, but unfortunately I hate the smell of whisky. I think the smoothness and artistry in this fragrance is clear, so I'm going neutral, purely for appreciation purposes.
10 August 2008

Feuilles de Tabac by Miller Harris

Peppery, leafy, brown opening (sort of matches the packaging when you come to think of it!) - after which there's at least an hour of a very wearable tobacco/woody scent. Later in the drydown, some overly smoky - verging on the sickly sweet notes emerge (my husband, who is not a perfume connoisseur, but has been exposed to rather a lot of scents over the years, remarked: "Now it smells too... Mediterranean"). However, once that little speed bump on the road passes, it becomes very soft, very sniffable and dare I say quite sexy. It's a thumbs up from me.
10 August 2008

Black Cashmere by Donna Karan

Too much of everything for me, I'm afraid. Donna Karan's Chaos shared some elements of this (but in Chaos, they were blended with fizzy cola bottles and sparkling lemonade). I bet this will smell exciting on the right person, but for me, it was headache-inducing. (And luckily, Chaos is now being reissued, so I'll wait for that lovely gem to return instead!).
10 August 2008

Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder

I'd heard that Harrods stocks the Estee Lauder private collection Tuberose Gardenia, so I went over to sniff that. The sales assistant was entertaining: "I wear this all the time and I swear people lean towards me on the train to sniff me. It's such a lovely perfume; the arabs buy it by the bucketload!". I thought this was a Tuberose done very well - I tried some on my skin (which was a precious commodity reserved for fragrances I might like to buy), but within about 2 minutes, an odd chemical note emerged, which lurked underneath the strong tuberose and felt "wrong" to the point of making the perfume unpleasant to smell by the time it had settled. So, it doesn't suit me. Bummer.
10 August 2008

Honeysuckle & Jasmine by Jo Malone

Very, very pretty, but not exquisite - this could work as a scent for a body lotion, room spray or a candle; I'd probably wear this, but there are so many other scents with just that bit more personality to explore, that I probably won't.
10 August 2008

Blue Agava and Cacao by Jo Malone

It sounds interesting in theory, but I found the cocoa note dominated and overpowered an otherwise unremarkable blend
10 August 2008

L'Instant Magic by Guerlain

Very feminine, rounded edges, not as sickly sweet as L'instant. It has a fruity opening and dries to a very powdery finish. Average and nothing to write home about, but pleasant and wearable.
10 August 2008

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

I wanted to find a fragrance that accurately captures the smell of dry vanilla pipe tobacco.

Unfortunately, Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille is the smell of wet, almost decomposing tobacco with a bourbon-like alcoholic vanilla note. I found it quite stomach-turning.
10 August 2008

Rousse by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Very peculiar: Dr. Pepper with florals, orange and sweat. Not for me.
10 August 2008

Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

The part where this is a soapy cologne is GOOD. The part where this shares some elements from Angel is BAD (it's as if he has used the same base - "Muglinnaire?" ) and that really put me off. I am a huge fan of Mugler's Alien, but I'm in the "makes me feel nauseous"-camp for Angel, unfortunately. So it's a resounding NO.
10 August 2008

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

First impression: Wow! I almost did a double-take. What just hit that blotter? Was it a cherry lemonade explosion served on a bed of tuberose? Or a marzipan confection with cherry jam and candied tuberose topping? Or some kind of exotic fruit punch mingling with sun tan lotion after a hot day? I had to try this on and boy, I actually really fell in love here. It's definitely rich, definitely sweet, but I enjoyed it so much it almost made me giggle with delight.
10 August 2008

À la Nuit by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

FULL-on, sweet, indolic, potent Jasmine. I love Jasmine, but sometimes too much of a good thing is too much. This is a neutral from me - not because I don't think A la Nuit is beautiful, but because I prefer my Jasmine when blended in with other notes a little more.
10 August 2008

Terre de Bois by Miller Harris

A lemony-herbal boiled sweet dipped in good chypre cologne. It's a wearable, moorish, almost addictive scent, suitable for both men and women (I love how it smells on my husband, but I also adore how it smells on me). Particularly appropriate for summer, but don't restrict yourself - wear whenever you want to be uplifted without having to resort to something eye-wateringly zingy.
10 August 2008

Pleasures by Estée Lauder

I have the miniature and occasionally wear this when sweet or complex scents don't feel right. Pleasures is a good name; it's a comforting, fluffy towel straight from the washing line, it's a civilised glass of juice in a spring garden and it's not offensive, in-your-face, or particularly memorable. It's quite pleasurable, but doesn't have a big personality. I suppose if understated elegance is your thing, Pleasures might be your perfume.
10 August 2008

Ralph by Ralph Lauren

I don't care who this is aimed at, it's one of my summer staples (and I'm well past 30)! It goes well with a shopping spree, a bit of a walk out on a sunny day or with the kitsch green glass apple earrings I have. Fruity, glass-like transparency with apple chewing gum and cream soda float. That's Ralph.
10 August 2008

Love by B Never Too Busy Be Beautiful

Love was created to represent the bittersweet quality of naive young love and of love when it goes a little sour too (although that's not always mentioned in the marketing materials). I think the perfume is an interesting mix of fruit and florals and the sour apple note adds a mouth watering edge to what would otherwise be a very sweet, fairly middle of the road perfume. This is one to try and wear, rather than to sniff from the bottle or on someone else. It can either be fruity and fun, or go a little too sour. Luckily I'm in the first camp and enjoy wearing this very much.
10 August 2008

Love In Paris by Nina Ricci

It's a sparkling fruity floral; synthetic, but not abrasive, fresh, but not eye-watering - and on skin, mellows to a very pleasant, very feminine, very wearable scent. I am past being a fragrance snob and if I like something I buy it, regardless of the "image"! I happily wear this on carefree days during summer, or whenever I need cheering up.
10 August 2008

Midnight Star by Neil Morris Fragrances

Aldehyde galore; unfortunately the very type of ironing-smell aldehydes that give me an instant migraine. I've dubbed this Midnight Migraine.
10 August 2008

Gucci Eau de Parfum II by Gucci

Blackcurrant leaves wear a Gucci suit and handbag. In other words - sophisticated, inoffensive, wearable and fresh, but not a party animal, sexy seductress or a frivolous girl. I own this and wear it for business meetings, travel, etc.
10 August 2008

Mandragore by Annick Goutal

Mandragore is a mouth watering, zesty citrus - undercut by a soft, creamy quality - which develops into a very accomplished and well supported fresh ginger fragrance. Very wearable and seems to last for hours (on me at least).
10 August 2008

Intimate Lily by Neil Morris Fragrances

A very nicely done, grown-up lily of the valley. The other notes bloom out as the fragrance develops and leave the almost solifleur feeling behind. I had hoped for more prominence from the Casablanca lily, but that's the only disappointing thing about this perfume. I'd definitely recommend this if you like Diorissimo or maybe even if you've once loved Blue Grass on someone else, but want something much less stuffy for yourself.
10 August 2008

Gotham by Neil Morris Fragrances

Hippie Labdanum and pals. I like it! The Neil Morris bubble effect I've mentioned in my other reviews for his scents is here too; this time the bubble is sweet and pretty, but when it bursts you're hit with a very strong labdanum supported by well loved suede boots and some joss sticks. Gotham feels comforting and nostalgic for me and I'd wear it very happily (but perhaps not to work).
10 August 2008

Dark Season by Neil Morris Fragrances

Very accurate fir tree sap, blended with mosses and and a general smell of being in a Finnish forest. (I'm from Finland and Neil's description of Dark Season was the clincher for my decision to order samples from him). I tried this on my husband's skin and it felt like a temporary tattoo of a forest scene, rather than a part of him. Very good piece of olfactory storytelling, but I'm not convinced of its wearability as a perfume.
10 August 2008

Café by Neil Morris Fragrances

Very accurate patisserie scent; almost exactly like the Crabtree & Evelyn patisserie room fragrance I was recommended to buy for selling my house (apparently if you spray some around, viewers are more likely to buy). I think this is fun, but not a perfume I would wear.
10 August 2008

Aegean by Neil Morris Fragrances

A gorgeous pool boy who wore Kouros yesterday. Very nice men's fragrance - perhaps it could also work on a woman, but my mind is firmly transported to glowing pecks.
10 August 2008

Zephyr by Neil Morris Fragrances

This, like all the other Neil Morris fragrances, has a curious magic perfume-bubble quality; at first you smell the outside of the bubble, at which point the other notes are hidden and you get an impression of "ah, this is what the fragrance will be like", but then the bubble bursts and all the other notes come gushing forth. In the case of Zephyr, the effect is "the smell you get on your hands after picking wild strawberries", then "fairly synthetic, but very pleasant girly shampoo". I'd recommend this to fans of any of the Ralph fun & fruity scents. I would enjoy this in the summer, or at any time I felt frivolous. I can't help wishing for a more complex base (what would happen if you took some of the base from Gotham and laid it under Zephyr? For instance).
10 August 2008

Le Parfum d'Odette by Neil Morris Fragrances

On opening it evokes a blend of Poison and Samsara (without the sickly berry flavoured cough-mixture of Poison). In just a few minutes, it turns into an incredible fragrance! It's sugared Tuberose, blended with alcoholic woods and blackberry & blackcurrant wine gums. Wow. (On drydown there is more than a passing resemblance to Guerlain's Jardins de Bagatelle). Despite the nod towards all these loud perfumes, Le parfum d'Odette manages to be rounded and wearable, but retains the moorish and addictive qualities that the somewhat OTT perfumes often develop into. I will need a whole bottle of this. After wearing Le parfum d'Odette for one day, I kept wanting to go back to it and not test any other perfumes.
10 August 2008

Keep It Fluffy by B Never Too Busy Be Beautiful

Keep It Fluffy (or KIF, as it is affectionately known by its fans) is described as a scent for the girly pink romantic. And yes, the scent is romantic; it's Ylang-meets-quality-custard-tarts-and-cake-at-a-patisserie, it's fluffy slippers and a cuddly toy, it's a girl's night in. It is not a Lolita scent, or a vamp scent, or a business scent, or sexy - and it is not in any way offensive.

However, it is not just for the incurably addicted to pink. Oh no - it's for those of us who, from time to time, need to remind ourselves of the good things in the world and nuzzle next to something fluffy for comfort. That's what Keep It Fluffy is good for. It can cheer up and comfort.

The Turkish bath (a kind of buttery cream wash you spread on yourself before getting in the bath or shower) is to die for and the body cream is very rich and silky - and it smells incredibly good.
04 August 2008

Salvador Dali by Salvador Dali

One of the reasons I've always had a bottle of this in my fragrance wardrobe from since it was launched (not the same bottle, obviously), is that no other perfume smells like Salvador Dali. This is an exotic, complex scent that can have the danger of wearing the wearer if not careful, but when used sparingly it develops into an exquisite oriental shawl that keeps you warm and makes you feel sultry regardless of the situation.
03 August 2008

Nina (new) by Nina Ricci

It really does smell like a toffee apple... almost for the whole development of the scent. The opening is scrumptious and fresh (with, dare I say, distinct lack of any kind of "naff" apple note, which I was afraid of), but this fades too fast. Then it's several hours of sweet toffee apple; yup, that's all there is to Nina. My husband loves the way it smells on me, I'm in two minds about it.
03 August 2008

Mimosa Pour Moi by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Very pretty Mimosa - also quite accurate (compared to the Mimosa absolute oil I have; the opening is almost identical). So, successful as a single flower scent, but perhaps a little too simple. I like Kenzo Summer better, so will stick with that one for my Mimosa fix.
03 August 2008

Miami Glow by J.Lo by Jennifer Lopez

Funny that Taolady says this doesn't smell of suntan lotion - I, on the other hand, get a very clear "Hawaiian Tropic"-vibe from this (but I don't mind; it's nostalgia to the 80s all the way!). Very enjoyable summer fragrance and one of the first celebrity scents I allowed myself to try without wrinkling my snobbish little nose. Glad I did! Now I don't want to use the last of it because then it'll all be gone!
03 August 2008

Laguna by Salvador Dali

This is the closest I've come to finding a love for an aquatic fragrance (and that's cheating because really, Laguna is more of a translucent powdery, fruity floral). Great for summer months, but best used sparingly. There is an interesting dry edge to this scent, which balances the composition nicely, but may be the source of polarised opinions. Or maybe it's the powdery iris?
03 August 2008

Diesel Plus Plus by Diesel

You know those foam mushrooms in pick n' mix? Dip some in herbs and chemicals, squeeze out the essence and you've got Diesel Plus Plus. Kind of interesting if that's your sort of thing, but I don't like the end result.
03 August 2008

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Oh wow! This really does smell like animal bedding and cotton candy. I don't know how I am supposed to react to this - the "zoo"-like smells are so obvious from the first spray. It also smells a little bit like the fur of your pet cat after it's been lounging in the sun for a few ours. All very interesting, but not something I would spray on myself. A little too reminiscent of other kinds of "sprays".

Another in the series of olfactory explorations that works as a story incredibly well, but - for me anyway - completely fails as a perfume.
03 August 2008

Intimately Beckham Women by Beckham

I wish the nose(s) behind "Intimately Beckham Women" would have shown this juice to someone else. Why? Because, I guess I'm a snob, and just can't bring myself to buy "Beckham merchandise".

This is a lovely, fairly uncomplicated, flattering, feminine scent that would probably suit most ages and personalities. The lily is noticeable, so avoid if you're not a fan of lily scents. Or the Beckhams ...
03 August 2008

Ginger by Lush

Very true, long-lasting, well balanced dry ginger - excellent for days when sweet candy scents won't do, or for when travel or stress have got the better of you. I like to take the dusting powder or lotion with me on trips away; they are grounding and calming somehow.

(P.S. this is available again through Lush Retro in UK at least).
03 August 2008

Ginger Essence by Origins

Ginger ale with lemonade and a helping of fizzy cola bottles on the side. Some days this feels like too much to take in and some days the space-dust like buzzing of this fragrance is just right. Prepare to be refreshed! I'd avoid it on headache-y days; it's too sweet for those and if you're looking for a more true Ginger scent without all the faff, go for the original Ginger perfume by Lush instead (Origins version came after).
03 August 2008

Fendi (original) by Fendi

The Fendi sisters described their signature fragrance as "what an expensive fur coat would smell like". Not a line used in today's marketing, I'm sure - but it is accurate as a brief; Fendi smells very warm, very furry, very expensive and very dated.
03 August 2008

Fleurs de Citronnier by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

The opening is very pretty, bright, green citrus floral. The good trip ends there. I'm SO disappointed - this turns to pure honey on my skin far too quickly (and I can't help but think "honey and lemon flu medicine", sadly). Oh well, at least there's one Serge Lutens I don't have to lust after!
03 August 2008

Eau Dynamisante by Clarins

Very kind on the wearer; very simple cologne - absolutely lovely when the weather is unbearably hot, humid or otherwise drowsy. Great to take on holiday, great when sprayed on ankles and back of the neck after walking around all day (or flying).

Nothing extraordinary, but easier to get on with then some other colognes, I think. This will never make me feel nauseated, in fact, it can do the opposite and combat queasy feelings.

I would always like to have some around, but would not put this in the category of "perfume" at all.
03 August 2008

Dior Addict by Christian Dior

It's powdery, sweet and warm, with a hint of dirt and nail polish remover. Quite attractive, quite sexy, but it smells a little musty - let's see, say you sprayed on a beautiful amber floral, did your nails - and then went out for the evening. When you got back home after the night, your skin, hair and clothes would still be strongly perfumed. You take your clothes off, don't have a shower and collapse into bed. When you wake up the next morning, your clothes and your hair would smell of Dior Addict.
03 August 2008

DKNY Be Delicious by Donna Karan

I don't like the melon/fruity combination at all and combined with the synthetic-smelling apple, I'm left with an impression of a bucket of apple peels and hollowed out melon skins doused in some kind of cleaning product. Not good. I'm sure this will suit many people, but it fails to entice me.
03 August 2008

Cristalle Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I'm in the "this turns my stomach" -camp for Cristalle; unfortunately. It's a perfume I wish I could like and wear, but Cristalle is absolutely not for me - both the EDT and EDP smell very bad on me and right from the opening, the scent is too pungent, synthetic and yet somehow hollow.
03 August 2008

Cologne Mûre et Musc by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Mûre et Musc can be love-or-hate (the notes can be "cat's piss" on some), but I'm definitely in the LOVE camp! The scent is green and fruity on opening, then remains constant, fruity and strong for a few hours, after which the remaining drydown is a little reminiscent of blackcurrant jam.
03 August 2008

Cocktail by B Never Too Busy Be Beautiful

This is sophisticated, a little fruity, like a perfumed fruit punch - the name cocktail is apt. There are traces of face powder and lipstick, I swear - it's as if you're sipping something frivolous and alcoholic when putting your make-up on before going out. Cocktail is probably not for the early teens, but anywhere from 18 upwards; just like its name might suggest.
03 August 2008

Chloé Narcisse by Chloé

This perfume is like caramelised air freshener. It's incredibly cloying and sickly. That is, of course, just my reaction to it - and as always with perfumes, entirely subjective.
03 August 2008

Chloé (original) by Chloé

This is by no means an accurate description of the notes, but rather, my impression of the scent: take a ripe apricot, dip it in powdered sugar and sit it on white tuberose blossoms. Take your creation out to the garden where Honeysuckle vines run rampant among the flowers. That's what Chloe feels like when you first spray it on.

On skin, it evolves to an even more honeyed floral and finally imparts a soft, feminine glow that has had more than one person lean closer and ask "what IS that?"

Glad to see that the original Chloe is still available through some retailers; I'll be upset when it goes. The new one is too sterile in my opinion.
03 August 2008

Cherish by Ghost

Surprisingly pretty, if quite simplistic. Soapy, fresh, sweet floral; very wearable - would suit summer, sports and anyone who wants to smell pretty without being too "perfumed". Reminiscent of shower gel and hand soap fragrances, rather than of complex perfumes.
03 August 2008

Chance by Chanel

The concept sounds delightful, as do the notes. The bottle design is quirky and the opening, although a little too synthetic, almost promises something. Those are the best aspects of this perfume. If another house produced a scent as average as this, it'd get a neutral. But for Chanel to do it? It's a thumbs down. They missed their chance with this one.
03 August 2008

Champs-Elysées by Guerlain

Bubbling, sweet opening, then... very, very average, TOO sweet and stuck-in-the-back-of-your-throat cloying floral - and although it's definitely a Guerlain, it's my least favourite. The scent lasts for ages too, which is unfortunate if you don't like it.
03 August 2008

Chakra VI Intuition by Aveda

All these Aveda "purefume" Chakra scents were simple, aromatherapy-like and beautiful. I'm gutted they were discontinued. Intuition was sweet, intense and comforting and lasted fairly unchanged for about 3-4 hours.
03 August 2008

Casmir by Chopard

This could have been a great fragrance, but I don't know whether it's the fruit, or the coconut, but it's just too sickly and cloying on me. The opening has promise, but very soon after that it goes so pungent that I need to wash it off.
03 August 2008

Alien by Thierry Mugler

One of the best Jasmine perfumes ever, period. It's a sultry, but not sickly, powdery, but not suffocating, lovely, sexy close-to-the-skin scent. Extremely sensual without being vulgar and very comfortable to wear. Gets lots of compliments too, which is a bonus!
03 August 2008

Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan

This smells like it sounds - like someone spray-painted a classic cashmere jumper on you.

That'd probably feel quite comfortable to the wearer (and certainly, this is a comfort-blanket kind of scent). I'm not convinced it's a perfume worth waxing lyrical about though. This is one of the weaker scents by the Donna Karan label, in more ways than one.
03 August 2008

Cabotine by Grès

I am so disappointed that this classic just hates me. It goes very chemical-y and unpleasant half way through and there are no redeeming features to rescue it later. The opening is invitingly green and fruity, but it's all downhill from there.
03 August 2008

Burberry for Women by Burberry

One of the few perfumes where the fruity-powdery axis works. There is a hint of apple and it's supported by quite a sweet, unobtrusive caramel & vanilla-laden base, which isn't half bad.

This (the original Burberry for women) is really rather good, but not terribly complex, or sophisticated. Wearing this does get you compliments and it's an easy perfume to wear.
03 August 2008

Bulgari pour Femme by Bulgari

Violet sweeties, wrapped in chiffon, eaten in a luxurious boudoir. Not a very sexy scent, but an unobtrusive, clean, women-portrayed-as-delicate-flowers kind of perfume. I can see this being a huge favourite for some and I do think it is a beautiful composition. Not for me, though.
03 August 2008

Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden

My grandmother used to wear it - and I'm afraid this is where this perfume belongs - in the past. I don't think it has weathered well and now sits rather uncomfortably next to the modern array of scents on offer.

Blue grass is almost suffocatingly powdery and aldehydic. It's also floral and herbal, but those qualities are drowned out. There's a story that Arden used to spray this on her beloved horses and that does sound rather believable.

Whoever said this smells like Shalimar hasn't tried this, or Shalimar. The two scents are not even slightly alike.
03 August 2008

Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi by Acqua di Parma

This is an accomplished, fresh, extremely wearable fig with enough of a citrus-kick to pep up the hottest, muggiest day. Diptyque's fig scent is a more "pure" fig, if you like, but I do think there is room for both (unlike some have suggested below).

Fico di Amalfi body lotion is such a treat layered underneath too; absolutely mouthwatering, zingy and fresh. Completely unisex too, although on a man, I can see this scent being little less sweet and perhaps a tad more "humdrum".
03 August 2008

Beautiful by Estée Lauder

Too much of everything; too sweet and too heady, this is a no-no for me. Tuberose is one of those funny notes - it can be the very thing that draws me to a fragrance, or the very thing that makes me gag a little. In the case of Beautiful, it's the latter. I'm not sure what tips the balance over (perhaps it's the fruity elements?), but something really really does. I've sniffed this perfume on others and have appreciated it, but I really can't stand it on my skin.

This, to me, is in the same category with the "Tiffany" signature scent, so those of you that can't get enough of Beautiful might also enjoy Tiffany.
03 August 2008

Asja by Fendi

Incense spilled on an old, alcohol-stained Indian rug. I really feel they went wrong with this one, but, as always, perfume is so subjective.
03 August 2008

Arpège by Lanvin

Arpège is all about the base and it's hard to even think of it as having any floral elements whatsoever. That's what happens on my skin anyway. It smells expensive, stylish, but also a little overpowering, so go sparingly on this one.

By the way, when Arpège was launched, it WAS expensive. I can't believe it is thought of as anything even close to a "drugstore" scent! Consider yourself lucky if you can get this as a bargain.
03 August 2008

Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel

Go to a flower shop. Buy a bouquet of white lilies and hyacinths. Get them home and spray some inexpensive, but nice deodorant on them. Leave for a few hours. Now stick your head right in. Take a deep breath. You've pretty much got Anaïs Anaïs.

It's like a good pop song that's been overplayed in the radio - wasn't considered "cheap" when it was launched by any means, but its sheer availability and exposure has devalued it quite a bit. There are far worse florals being released today, but I'm not convinced that makes for a top proposition for the perfume of your dreams either.

On a personal note, this takes me back to my teens when an older girl I admired used to wear it and I kept thinking it was wonderful.
03 August 2008

Amazing Grace by Philosophy

This is another perfume in the series of... not-quite-perfume - that's how it feels. If you fancy wearing a "pleasant smell", this one's for you. There are plenty of stunning, complex perfumes around, but sometimes if we're not feeling very well, or we need to go to a job interview, or somewhere formal, perhaps, there's room for a bit of Amazing Grace. It's a good staple, but not poetry in a bottle either.
03 August 2008

Amarige by Givenchy

I really don't know how to rate this. It's another scent that has firmly been fixed to a specific era for me and it won't budge.

Amarige is very, very sweet, extremely feminine and playful. It will leave a lasting impression, that's for sure! It might be a lovely perfume for a younger girl (one of the first proper perfumes, perhaps?).
03 August 2008

B Scent by B Never Too Busy Be Beautiful

Lemon and fennel! This is a really unique perfume - not the smoothest around (it has some distinct stages, at least on my skin) - but very inspiring and exciting to wear. The opening is a burst of citrus and grapefruit really zings out at this stage, after which the scent turns quite sweet and aromatic. I like it a lot, but it's not an "easy" scent (never seem to get compliments wearing it).
03 August 2008

1000 Kisses Deep by B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful

A rich, heady, myrrh-infused scent designed to symbolise a long and happy marriage (and the name comes from a song by Leonard Cohen). This will suit a mature woman (over 20 at least) who likes her perfume textured and warm.
03 August 2008

Allure Eau de Parfum by Chanel

This is possibly the most sophisticated and stealthily sexy perfume I have ever had the pleasure of wearing. Allure could not be more appropriately named.

The scent is a silky, or maybe chiffon-like veil over your skin until it finally melts in and becomes part of you. Very successful way of creating a modern perfume in the school of "it is something you smell of" (rather than old school "it is something you wear"). And despite being so modern, it smells like an instant classic.

Layering produces very good results with Allure - the rich body cream is to die for.
03 August 2008

Alchimie by Rochas

Well... it's liquorice! If you love sweet scents and liquorice this will be your dream come true. (My husband loves it, but I can't wear it. It's just too sweet for me. Alas).
03 August 2008

5th Avenue by Elizabeth Arden

This is something floral and mainstream to wear for work, say. It's not a fragrance that makes one ooooh and aaah about its artistry, but it's very wearable and men seem to compliment you too, which isn't a bad thing I suppose!
03 August 2008

24, Faubourg by Hermès

Style-in a bottle for fans of floral orientals. Very wearable, feminine without being overtly sexual, neck-nuzzling without being too "boudoir". The only problem with this is that it may not suit those under 20, but that's just a hunch. Depends on the person!
03 August 2008

Bobbi by Bobbi Brown

I struggle to think of this as a perfume - it's more of a cologne. Fresh, a little leafy and green, a little powdery, and not quite... finished. It's lovely if you can't make up your mind, or are not a fan of complex or heavy perfumes. The bottle design and the colour of the fragrance match what it smells like very well. (And as for the comment of her make-up line being "nothing special" - could not disagree more. Bobbi's make-up line is superb capsule range of products that suit everyone and the colours are designed to make you look like yourself, but better. For wild colours and fun stuff, you've got to accessorise with other brands, just like you'd buy your little black dress from one range and the jewellery from another).
03 August 2008

Action Donna by Trussardi

This was a very pretty floral chypre - quite sweet, but wearable. Great for summer, fairly young and feminine and much more memorable than many of the current equivalent mainstream fragrances. The bottle was HIDEOUS and I suspect that this perfume could have done better with a different design.
03 August 2008

White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor

This may have been one of the first fragrances created to suggest that jewels have a scent. Except that the various laundry detergents carrying "diamond" and "ruby" fragrances today are far more sophisticated. If diamonds smelled like this, nobody would want them.

This perfume has the odour of an old wig that's been in heavy use, perfumed, powdered and seldom washed.
20 July 2008

Balahé by Léonard

I can't believe they still make this! Balahe was one of my first 80s statement perfumes (of course, at the time, I didn't classify it that way and thought it was simply "yummy" and sexy. Can't imagine what my reaction to it would be now).

It's a sweet, fruity floral with a dominating base of vanilla and balmy notes. Not that far from some of the modern gourmand launches, in fact - but the volume is turned right up.
15 July 2008

Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I must be made of sugar because I turn all fragrances sweet. This one opens so beautifully, like a blast of flower petals and plum liqueur with a hint of citrus.

I love the opening. It is stunning! I'm also surprised by this fragrance because it didn't seem to match the "powdery" expectation.

Within minutes... I'm sitting in a vat of honey with supremely scented flower petals raining on me. If this was a joy ride at a perfume theme park I would be squealing with delight, but kind of glad when I got off the ride.

Another one I like, but can't wear.
15 July 2008

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is like smelling violets and your grandmother's cologne and vanilla pastries through several veils of pearly white chiffon.

It is extremely clever, supremely sophisticated and the perfume equivalent of "money shouts; wealth whispers."

This could be worn at any time, any season by people of any age. Yet somehow, this almost feels too chic for me, but that's my fault, not the perfume's.
15 July 2008

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Opens as ripe orange, at which point I feel attracted to it.

On my skin, however, bad things happen to this fragrance. I get a caramelised over-ripe orange served to me by someone with bad oral hygiene.
13 July 2008

En Passant by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Unfortunately... all I get is a distinct air of wilting flowers and rotting vegetation. The sort of smell you have at the bottom of your flower vase after a week if you forgot to change the water and the flowers are dead.
13 July 2008

Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Well, I just described this scent in another review as an "in-your-face spice orgy", so I should probably put it here too. Noir Epices is a spice orgy in the best possible way; sparkling, nose-tingling and bright. It's a big, statement scent on opening - a little too big for my tastes, a kind of "wow, what just came out of the bottle?" feeling, but the overly sweet opening changes quickly - the orange and cloves jump out to dominate after which the scent settles to its true character.

A few hours in, a warm, sweet and still somewhat citrussy glow remains. It's one I'm putting in the keepsies pile and will take out on cold winter days.
13 July 2008

Chaos by Donna Karan

This was the scent of fizzy cola bottles with extra spices and wood. Chaos was odd and interesting. Wearing it was a little bit challenging, but fun. I miss this scent, although I do see why it wouldn't have made a best seller.

Malle collection Noir Epices might appeal to those who miss this perfume (Noir Epices is more of an in-your-face spice orgy though, but there are some similarities).

Donna Karan Chaos managed a certain sheer quality with this scent; a difficult thing with so many rich notes.
13 July 2008

Gold by Donna Karan

I adore florals and love lily notes in a fragrance. They can sometimes go badly wrong, or be too blended with and eventually drowned out by other florals. As with any perfume, it comes down to wearing it on your skin and seeing what happens.

Gold doesn't impress on the blotter, but on my skin, it becomes the perfect lily fragrance, supported by a darker, softer edge later, but not in any way out of harmony or unpleasant. It becomes sexy, sultry and wearable. It lasts for a long time and small squirts are enough.

Lys Méditerranée by Frederic Malle is a very similar take on the lily, but on me, the lily of the valley takes over in the beginning and the drydown becomes honeyed and too sweet. I enjoy both, but prefer Donna Karan Gold.

Gold is sharper, a little more rigid and not too sweet.
13 July 2008

Angeliques Sous La Pluie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

It opens with a very strong cedar mixed with Covonia cough syrup. Once the cough syrup vanishes, this develops into a scent that you would have in your hair after rolling around on a forest floor in the summer, with freshly fallen young branches covered in sap, some earth and dry leaves and some grass. It's an interesting study in green and I like it. It would probably smell very sexy on just the right guy. I will probably wear it on days that are not right for sweet and girly scents. Bravo.
09 July 2008

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Unfortunately Une Rose hates me. On my skin, I get acetone, rose room freshener and a hint of unwashed underwear. It's not a pretty smell. My quest for the perfect rose perfume continues.
09 July 2008

Lys Méditerranée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The opening is a pure hit of lily of the valley and for a moment you might think back to Diorissimo, but just as your mind reaches for that comparison, a gorgeous lily in full bloom takes over and Lys Méditerranée settles to a very nice true lily fragrance.

On my skin, the lily becomes honeyed and the drydown becomes too sweet. I find Donna Karan Gold less sweet and as it's another full-on lily - perhaps a little more of a fantasy lily in bloom than Lys - I prefer to wear that one.
09 July 2008

Angel by Thierry Mugler

I love Thierry Mugler, Olivier Cresp & Yves de Chiris for the sheer CHEEK of creating such a thing. I love the bottle and the name; very clever.

The fragrance is nauseating. It deserves its polarised opinions. I am in the can't-stand-it camp.

I almost didn't try "Alien" by Mugler because of the Angel association. Alien is a completely different scent and has now become one of my favourites.
08 July 2008

Showtime by Kylie Minogue

Opens like a jar of home made strawberry jam.

Develops into cooked strawberry jam.

Dries to strawberry jam muffins.

I like all of these stages, but I don't know if I would like to smell of them. I found the scent too linear and too sweet. On the other hand, if you want a scent that will stay reliably "strawberry" all the way through without much development, this one might be perfect. Sample on your skin if you are a fan of very sweet gourmand fragrances. For this type of perfume, Pleasures Delight by Lauder might be a more interesting alternative.
08 July 2008

Juicy Couture by Juicy Couture

Don't be scared by Juicy Couture's own marketing angle on this, or by the declared list of notes, which include the sorts of confections you might indeed imagine on Barbie's dessert trolley.

In fact, Juicy Couture is an excellent and wearable sugared, powdered Tuberose.

It opens with an effervescent flourish and develops to a lovely floral without going sickly sweet. It goes through a phase where it wants to be chypre-like, but becomes softer, slightly balsamic, almost amber towards the end.

Tuberose as a raw material is enticing, but I find it challenging. First of all you have to pick a good one to start off with. Some of the ones I've sampled smell of wilted bouquets dipped in soured black tea. Not good. If you, like me, have always been drawn to, but sometimes nauseated by Tuberose scents, give this one a go, you might be able to enjoy it and even love it.
08 July 2008

Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

A fragrance I would love to appreciate for its notes and for its heritage... yet, it doesn't do it for me, it does not suit my skin and it makes me feel nauseous. It's not quite as "off" on me as Clinique's Aromatics Elixir, but it's in the same league. Love it or hate it. Maybe Youth Dew is the Marmite of perfumes?
08 July 2008

Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain

I wore this shortly after it was first launched in the 80s and well into the early 90s (I'm now 36). This is a full, intoxicating white floral done exceptionally well and a young, sweet fragrance done to perfection. Jardins de Bagatelle leaves the modern candyfloss scents aimed at the teenage market miles behind.

I no longer own a bottle, but one day I might again; depends how nostalgic I'll get! In a way I quite like each era to have its own signature scent, so I might be content to enjoy Bagatelle on others.
07 July 2008

Sugar by Fresh

It smells like home made lemonade and a little like a Finnish seasonal party drink "Sima"; a fermented lemon-flavoured home brew. Completely appropriate for a hot day, just like lemonade. The dry-down is a fairly basic vanilla and the citrus aroma doesn't linger much into it, but this is perhaps one of my all-time favourite uncomplicated foody, mouth watering summer scents. Nostalgia and perfume are notoriously linked and I probably like this because of the Finnish Sima connection; being a Finn away from home.
07 July 2008

Beyond Paradise by Estée Lauder

This surprised me because I hated it on the blotter enough not to even try it on my skin the first time some was shoved under my nose in a shop. I must also say that the ridiculous bottle put me off a little too.

Then, after having read the reviews here, I had to try again. I sprayed a generous amount on my skin. The opening felt so-so, but I smiled because it was much softer and a great deal more agreeable than the patchwork cacophony of chemicals I had previously experienced on the blotter. The scent remained almost unchanged for an hour, after which it evolved into "expensive fabric softener". Okay, I thought, this is pleasant, but nothing to write home about. Would appeal to lovers of clean smells.

Two hours in, the fragrance is still very much present, but it has transformed to one of the best florals I have ever experienced. It caresses the senses and comforts. It's gorgeous. I'm going to have to add this to my collection. I don't know whether to curse or thank Basenotes, but I would never have given Beyond Paradise another chance without this site.
07 July 2008

Covet Sarah Jessica Parker by Sarah Jessica Parker

I so, so, SO wanted to fall in love with this fragrance based on the notes, the description of it and on my first experience of it. When I first tried it a few weeks ago, the opening was gorgeous and inviting...and now, on my third try, after having sprayed it properly on my skin this time (not just a small squirt)...the dry-down is a real let-down! I get a mediocre amber cut with a stabbing, sharp note of paint stripper. This doesn't suit me at all.
07 July 2008

Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur

A rose that's too dirty, too dusty, too musky for anyone except those who might like to smell like an ageing prostitute that time forgot. Yuk.
06 July 2008

LouLou by Cacharel

I was in Paris on a summer holiday trip the year this launched - and I swear every young woman was wearing it there. So I bought a bottle, wore it, liked it. It is very much of its time; a perfume that enters the room before you do. The opening heady and easy to recognise. One of the great things about some of these older fragrances is that they really were easier to tell apart from one another than many of the modern launches aimed at teens. I have a soft spot for LouLou, but wouldn't wear it now.
05 July 2008

Chakra III Equipoise by Aveda

The only fragrance to date that has managed to satisfy my greed for over-the-top Bergamot with citrus and sweet florals. When they discontinued this, I was very, very pissed off. And although I have always enjoyed having a full fragrance wardrobe, this was the scent I'd always default to. This is the problem about any kind of even slightly "niche" choice in these matters; you risk losing the thing you fall in love with.
05 July 2008

Marc Jacobs Splash Grass by Marc Jacobs

I don't get "freshly cut grass" as much as "wow, it's the pear lemonade I used to have as a child in Finland!". Go figure. I like it. It's basic, easy to understand, frivolous; good for summer.
05 July 2008

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

I don't know how to rate this - I loved it on the blotter; loved its opening, adored its heart... and right at the dry down when I was left with what the perfume would "smell like on me", out came a chemical spoiled fruit dipped in nail polish remover. Oh. Bugger.

Want to wear it; my skin disagrees.
05 July 2008

SummerbyKenzo by Kenzo

It's like a fantasy honeysuckle - the Mimosa notes combine with the rest to create a scent that's uncannily like the smell of honeysuckles in bloom. On my skin, there is a hint of licorice and a soft, sexy, slightly caramel, floral dry down. I wore this on my wedding day last summer and it was perfect.I will be very upset when this gets discontinued. Right now I can't get enough of it.
05 July 2008

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

I love perfume so much that sometimes even the unpleasant (to me) scents are still somehow interesting (on others; on a blotter). Aromatics elixir is the only exception to that rule I've discovered so far - I would rather wait in the rain for another bus than get on with someone wearing Aromatics Elixir. It makes me feel ill.
05 July 2008

Paul Smith London for Women by Paul Smith

This is a sickly sweet fruit pudding - which sometimes you might fancy, sometimes not. I tried it several times and couldn't make up my mind. In the end, I bought a bottle, but then wished I hadn't. Like one-too-many spoonfuls of sugar.
05 July 2008

Lacoste pour Femme by Lacoste

If you want to smell like you've just had a shower and used some cute, girly shower gel in it - and if you want that smell to last much longer than could reasonably be expected in the heat of summer, this scent might take your fancy!

On a personal note, it specifically reminds me of a shampoo we used as kids on summer camp. I don't wear this if I want to feel sexy, but I do wear if if I want to smell clean and indulge in olfactory nostalgia.
05 July 2008

Coco by Chanel

Very, very 80s, very, very beautiful. It is heavy, sweet - yet sparkling. Used to suit my skin. Wore it to DEATH in the late 80s/early 90s and now can't touch it.
05 July 2008

Givenchy III by Givenchy

Sexy, confident, elegant (but dated - not that being "dated" is always a bad thing with the identikit sugary fragrances around).
05 July 2008

Gucci by Gucci by Gucci

I was so surprised at this; Gucci could do better and have done in the past.

This fragrance opens with an oily fruit note that creeps up your nose and sticks there.

On my skin; it dried to a rusty, metallic and messy chemical smell. It does match the bottle design somehow - a "new take" on an ageing, once-luxurious leather armchair with its equally leathery-skinned owner still attached.

Not impressed.
05 July 2008