Fragrance Reviews
Fragrance Reviews by twinpeaker
Showing all 8 reviews
Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
This has such a strong "old-lady" connotation to me. I had prepared myself for a sexy animalic musc, but the sweetness was overpowering, and there was a sour opening note that persisted and was actually a bit nauseating (like incontinent old lady). Had to wash it off. Twice. I'm disappointed that I was persistent in bidding for my sample; should have let it go at $25.00....*sigh* Live and learn...
19 May 2008
Encre Noir by Lalique
I recently fell in "like" with Costes (a fragrance of mostly topnotes)-- I liked the fresh, clean lavender and rose over a slightly musky/woody base. But it has very little persistence on me, and my skin ends up accentuating the rose, making it too feminine for my taste. Coincidentally I also recently tried Encre Noire (mostly basenotes), and liked it very much, but the lack of top notes and the steady inky dirty woodiness was relentlessly masculine. So I did the unthinkable and layered the two, and had a very pleasant couple hours experiencing a more masculine Costes. The old-lady rose association was gone, there was improved persistence, and the two complimented each other nicely.
I know, I know: heresy. I should leave the perfumery to the experts, but it was a fun experiment....and I might do it again.
I know, I know: heresy. I should leave the perfumery to the experts, but it was a fun experiment....and I might do it again.
17 May 2008
Piment Brûlant by L'Artisan Parfumeur
You know, this is a very interesting "scent", and I use that word in the technical sense. I don't feel Piment Brulant works as a stand-alone gourmand frangrance; and I wonder if it was intended as such. It is more of a fresh burst of a idea -- chocolate and chili pepper -- almost monothematic, and it's lack of persistence supports this idea. It's a playful olfactory experiment, a brief scent-definition. I put in on yesterday before I headed to the garden for some watering (heat wave in SF) and the scent was incredibly refreshing and totally mood-congruent with what I was experiencing outdoors. Today, I was making a Caribbean lime/cilantro/pepper marinade for fish, split open a Serrano pepper and was immediately greeted with the scent of Piment Brulant -- fresh, green, hot and cool at the same time.
I can imagine this scent being layered on-top of something cooler or floral, to add heat and complexity. I agree with what others have said here, but also appreciate the artistry that went into making such a Proustian scent mimic.
I can imagine this scent being layered on-top of something cooler or floral, to add heat and complexity. I agree with what others have said here, but also appreciate the artistry that went into making such a Proustian scent mimic.
17 May 2008
F pour Homme by Salvatore Ferragamo
I agree with Andrew; this is a softer gentler Terre d'Hermes. Not nearly as breathtaking and complex as Jean-Claude Ellena's work of art (there is that sparkling crystalline quality to Terre d'Hermes that is missing here) but, to my nose, it is more wearable. It is a bit sweeter, too (not necessarily an advantage). The full-on linear olfactory laser of TDH can give me a headache after a few hours, and F pour Homme mellows out in a way that allows me to wear it all day.
Great site, I'm a frequent reader, new poster.
Great site, I'm a frequent reader, new poster.
17 May 2008
Costes by Hôtel Costes
"Wow" was my initial reaction. I had just been trying Amouage Jubilation XXV and then tried this. Shall we compare and contrast, kids? Amouage was dense and smokey, full of incense, dark and mysterious, and incredibly complex. It is a liaison in winter under fur in front of a roaring fire with your clandestine lover. Not something I could pull off every day. So the contrast to Costes was shocking to me. Costes is stepping out of the hot Mediterranean sun and into the cool foyer of grand old hotel, the curtains gently billowing in the breeze. On me, it opens with a refreshing burst of citrus, clove and pepper. Shimmering underneath are fresh florals (bay leaf and lavender), it is very clean and smooth at the same time. SMOOOOOOOTH. In the dry down I'm more aware of sandalwood and a subtle animalic muskiness that anchor the fresh crisp topnotes and keep this fragrance on firmly unisex ground.
Classy, sexy, refreshing and smooth. Definitely a summer fragrance. This could be my new daily scent.
Classy, sexy, refreshing and smooth. Definitely a summer fragrance. This could be my new daily scent.
16 May 2008
Etro Dianthus by Etro
The lovely folks at Aedes sent me a sample of this along with some masculines I had requested. I have never been a fan of carnations, and would never have believed the could smell this good. The carnation/clove/orange accords are, for me, a new experience and I am enjoying it very much. Today in San Francisco we are having un-heard-of 94 degree weather and this fragrance could not be more perfect; it is a cool breeze stirring the leaves in a tree while I nap on a hammock. The clove (and a bit of leather?) also brink to mind the wonderful smell of an old book in a beautiful binding, making it almost masculine enough for me to wear ...
15 May 2008
Derring-Do for Men by Ineke
Just received my beautifully packaged sample set from Ineke Ruhlman. Apparently, the person in charge of internet sales literally lives across the street from my office in San Francisco, and walked it over himself. Now that's what I call service! It certainly puts me in a positive frame of mind to review Derring Do. So far, I'm loving it. The first impression is the citrus, light and clean and refreshing, followed by the middle notes which to my nose emphasize the magnolia. There is a flinty, almost metallic, crispness that keeps it alive and masculine. I've always been a little amused by descriptions that talk about "rain notes", since last time I checked rain had no fragrance, but this Derring Do does capture that moment when the first drops of a summer rain touch the dust on asphalt -- the scent that accompanies being caught in a downpour and escaping under a tree in the park. This is certainly NOT your father's eau de parfum.
The dry-down is warmer, but still fresh. My clients must be wondering why I keep raising my wrist to my nose....
The dry-down is warmer, but still fresh. My clients must be wondering why I keep raising my wrist to my nose....
12 May 2008
Terre d'Hermès by Hermès
My experience with TdH:
1) I want to love it, but it is a difficult lover.
2) It lasts longer than Methuselah.
3) I love it for short periods, it's better late in the drydown for daytime wear (which is a problem....do I apply at 4 a.m. for work arrival at 8?).
4) I agree with others here: It can give me a headache if I'm having one of those days when a headache feels imminent.
5) It lingers on clothing in a good way -- very fresh and summery -- like a memory of an old friend.
7) It is completely unique, can easily be a signature scent.
8) For those who like it but would prefer a kinder, gentler experience, try F pour Homee by Ferragamo.
A reserved thumbs up.
Merci bien!
1) I want to love it, but it is a difficult lover.
2) It lasts longer than Methuselah.
3) I love it for short periods, it's better late in the drydown for daytime wear (which is a problem....do I apply at 4 a.m. for work arrival at 8?).
4) I agree with others here: It can give me a headache if I'm having one of those days when a headache feels imminent.
5) It lingers on clothing in a good way -- very fresh and summery -- like a memory of an old friend.
7) It is completely unique, can easily be a signature scent.
8) For those who like it but would prefer a kinder, gentler experience, try F pour Homee by Ferragamo.
A reserved thumbs up.
Merci bien!
09 May 2008











