Fragrance Reviews by JaimeB

It does smell a bit like sandalwood, though there's none in the pyramid. Basically, it's the spices and the patchouli-oakmoss that make this scent. Bergamot is always a nice touch... I suppose this is technically not a chypre, because there's tree moss rather than oakmoss in it, but it kind of qualifies. I like this for cooler (but not cold) weather. It does seem to project a bit, but not excessively. It's warm and slightly spicy because of the clove bud oil and cardamom. Like many Floris masculines, it's "safe" for office wear, so I'll go with that for a casual Friday.

A somewhat ambery leather chypre, about which very little information is available. From my nose and what little I could find, I would guess some of the elements in the juice are bergamot, a white floral, amber, a leather note, and oakmoss. I have it in EdT form, and it is quite nice, with a moderate sillage. It has a fresher aspect than many leather chypres. Perhaps this is something about the citrus and white floral working together. I have no idea about the perfumer, the date of introduction, or its current availability. I found it in a tiny shop here in San Francisco. I think it's a small gem!

Rather strong on the birch tar (Russian leather) note at first, but then this dries down to reveal a more ambery scent. The incense, labdanum, and styrax in the top combine to give an assertive oriental impression. Though the leather predominates for quite a while, it only finally disappears quite late in the drydown. Powdery benzoin and iris soften, but do not overwhelm it. In fact, for a scent containing such a definite powdery heart, it hardly comes across as powdery at all. I have to say, though, that this fragrance, while quite lovely, is overall a very close approximation of Guerlain Cuir Beluga. This is not very apparent at first, but as the development progresses it becomes unmistakable; so I would say if you have Cuir Beluga, you may not need this one at all.

"Cuir pleine fleur" is the French term for the highest quality leather. This scent is really quite a good leather, using birch and suede notes carry the leather impression, and supplementing and supporting them with rather green-tinged florals (violet and mimosa). Vetiver in the base gives this a good anchor for longevity and a decent sillage. It is really rather captivating, recalling somewhat such famous and classic suede-leather scents as Tabac Blond and Cabochard. A definite keeper!

An incredibly smooth, slightly leathery eau chaude-style of EdT. The top notes are classic eau-de-cologne formulation, citrus with a dash of lavender for an herbal-floral effect. The middle notes combine spicy notes (among which cinnamon predominates) with green-herbal sage and florals. The base is a conflation of chypre (labdanum and moss) and fougère (tonka bean), but the lavender in the top tilts this to an overall spicy fougère modality within the eau chaude family. Good longevity and sillage. Warm, full, yet not quite rich, it is elegantly confident; nevertheless it is quite genteel in its restraint. Very much a "class act."

A rather traditional fougère-style scent that doesn't seem to have any coumarin notes in the pyramid. Still, it is a bit herbal and mutedly floral with some spicy aspect that also seems not to be listed in the pyramid. The base is very classic for men's fragrances: amber, most, musk, and unspecified woods. The woody note seems to have a bit of a leather cast to it, so it may be birch. it seems to be a real eau de toilette strength, and so not extremely long-lasting, but it doesn't do too badly in that way either. Its chief appeal is that it's kind of stereotypically masculine in a gentler, more refined sort of old-school way. Definitely male, but not a big, bold 80s-style power scent, Its drydown is really quite satisfying. I give it high marks. It's a pity it isn't better known, but it comes from a South American company, though the nose, I believe, is from Geneva, la Suisse romande (French-speaking Switzerland). Et voilà!

Curious to relive the experience of Polo after wearing Polo Modern Reserve, I decided to wear them back-to-back. This is a woody chypre in the 1970's style, full of green, woody, and spicy-balsamic notes; jasmine, carnation, geranium, and rose for florals in the heart; then the whole is anchored by musk, tobacco, patchouli, moss, and woods. Indeed, it is redolent of the days of my youth. I remember it as sweeter, but then, maybe I was sweeter myself back then. I could have sworn there was a honey note in it. It still strikes me as a sporty scent, maybe not so young now as I remembered it; some of the stronger notes make it seem more mature. I don't think this is dated, but then styles cycle back through the ages, and while they say retro is only for people who weren't around the first time through, I think I'll chance it.

Spice and herbal notes lead off, with a white floral and resinous note to follow. Later, patchouli and woods with soft leather. This strikes me as a casual or work scent more than as anything really dressy, but it could probably be stretched to that end. Being a modern scent, it can defy convention as far as that. This harks back more to the original Polo (Green), and I think I prefer both of these to Polo Blue, Black, or Double Black.

An engaging aroma from the start: gentle, but a definite presence, making a fresh and slightly spicy impression, not exactly floral, but something woody-resiny tinged with moments of floral notes. When it dries down, it smells remarkably like clean, fresh skin, redolent of warmth and health. How Roucel does it is a mystery; from the pyramid, one would expect a slightly floral woody oriental. Indeed, in a sense, it is just that; nevertheless, it is the "skin scent" par excellence. Truly amazing how the warmth of skin can be encapsulated in such a fragrance!

A fresh and sparkling blend of florals, resin, musk, and amber. This is a stimulating scent, which energizes with its unique blend of orris, geranium, and white florals skillfully blended with sweet violet and rooted in mastic resin, vegetable musk, and amber. The orris plays its powdery note against the resin in a surprising harmony, as the other notes chime in to balance and blend. This has good longevity and moderate sillage; it's just the thing for the office on a mild,sunny day.

A sleeper. Goes on kind of soft and then slowly unveils its charm. A bit of a gourmand scent, with a mellow chocolate note, it is mainly green, slightly floral, and woody. The list of notes reads a little like an evasive suspect being interrogated by the bad cop, not wanting to be too specific: sap notes, undergrowth notes, woody notes — who knows what these things might really be? The fact is, however, that they work. Some think this rather too pale, but its beauty is in the subtlety of composition and in the balance of the elements. To me, it's just lovely and very smooth, suave.

This is listed as a woody or leather chypre, depending on the source. It is an example of the 1980's style surviving into the early '90s. Lots of people swear this is a ringer for the discontinued Polo Crest; I wouldn't know. To me, this is a blast from the past as a men's scent. The notes, spice, green/herbal, and citrus in the top note; mostly floral in the heart; and wood, moss, amber, and leather in the base, are archetypal for the genre and period. It reminds me of the days when we called such things "Way cool," and so it still is.

Fresh, minty, green, woody, oriental. That about sums it up as to notes. It starts of quite green-minty, then passes through a kind of faux-vetiver phase, where it smells almost (but not quite) like vetiver. I believe this is due to the minty notes starting to yield to the patchouli and labdanum in the base, the combination of which does seem to mimic vetiver. The mint never quite completely dies down, but rather yields mostly to the woody oriental notes of the base. This scent is remarkable on me for longevity, even now, over twelve hours after applying, it still holds on. The best sillage is for the first six to eight hours, which is also quite remarkable. The development is rather limited, but effective, and the scent is pleasant, if not groundbreaking. Overall, a plus, and worthy of Cartier, but perhaps not the best thing they've ever done in men's fragrance.

To my mind, one of the most interesting ambers on the market. Ambergris, together with Peru and Tolu balsams, give a genuine and classic rendition of amber fragrance in the base note, while amber, vanilla, and nutmeg provide a generous and fulsome heart note; the top is a brilliant stroke of olfactory imagination, pairing lavender and myrtle to produce a spicy, smooth, and slightly floral-herbal introduction to the piece. I always thought Jean Laporte was a genius, with Santal Noble, Parfum d'Habit, and Eau des Îles to his credit, and this is just confirmation of his skill. In my book, this beats most of the other leading ambers for sophistication and sheer beauty.

If you don't much care about longevity, this is a fine scent. If, on the other hand, you're going to be a bugbear about such details, you'll probably stay away from it. So. apart from the issue of longevity, let's talk about composition: This has quite a cast of characters, from herb and spice to fruit and flowers, through incense, woods and gourmand notes. It has everything a fragrance could have, albeit in a slightly precarious (but convincing) balance. It does have a (somewhat limited) development, and it smells, frankly, very nice. There aren't many others quite like it. On points, I'd have to give it a "thumbs up." On value for money... well, that's for you to decide.

This is a very well-blended vanilla-based oriental. The harmony is so tight that it is difficult to pick out a lot of the individual notes. The "cotton" note is vaguely present as a kind of "clean linen" or "fresh laundry" vibe, which does come across a bit in the top note. The overall impression from this is of a more-than-typically fresh and slightly floral vanilla. It's the sort of thing that might be a daytime office scent, or a subdued evening fragrance. Not something I'd wear a lot, but definitely good to have on tap.

This review is for the 2007 reissue. Unfortunately, the notes listed for this on the tester (and in other sources) are just a skeleton of the 1970 version. Whether any of the other original ingredients are present is very hard to say, as I never smelled the original; but it is just possible that Givenchy had some reason to give just the bare bones of the notes, and that not all of the original pyramid was eliminated. I certainly hope that is the case. In any event, the 2007 juice is still beautiful, and while it doesn't have a great deal of longevity, it is quite lovely while it lasts. It preserves the chypre character, right down to the oakmoss, which is commendable, because it is now restricted under EU rules. This version is available only in EdT. Whatever the answer to the question of reformulation, this is a very good scent — a definite "thumbs up."

The base notes of almond and musk conspire with the sage and honeysuckle to construct a green note with a curious edge to it which is half herbaceous (the sage) and half powdery (almond, tonka, musk). The honeysuckle is an offbeat stroke of genius here: honeysuckle wood shares a note in common with catnip, nepetalactone, which has both a pithy-woody smell and herbal note. While the construction of this scent is fascinating, the overall impression is a bit odd. That's not necessarily bad, if you like odd, and I occasionally do. This isn't cheap, and I bought it, so in this case, I guess I like odd.

A very pleasant green floral, in my opinion suitable for both sexes. It strikes a fresh-floral note and reveals the green and mossy woods aspects more and more as it dries down. Citrus, fruity, and green notes (with marigolds) in top lead off, followed by a floral bouquet of white flowers with honeysuckle, orris, and a light rose, all supported by a base of woods, musk, and moss. This is especially good to wear in fine weather; it matches the sunny mood. Its a pretty optimistic scent, giving one a feeling that everything is going to be just fine: "Everything's coming up roses and daffodils" (well, narcissus...). A very definite thumbs up for this Daniel Molière classic from 1982.

Top Notes: Bergamot, French Lavender
Heart Notes: Cedarwood
Base Notes: Mysore Sandalwood, Bourbon Vetiver, Amber

One of Creed's most popular and best offerings. This is a fresh woody-oriental fougère-style fragrance of good breeding, the sort of thing a proper gentleman would wear to his club or a board meeting. For me, lacking such lofty venues in which to shine, it does for work at times, but more often for a nice evening out. Bergamot, lavender, cedarwood, sandalwood, Bourbon vetiver, amber (perhaps some hint of cinnamon?): very balanced, yet well and closely blended, with a very slight development, as befits such a stately fragrance. The longevity on me is about average; the sillage is quite marked at the beginning, but tapers off gradually, making a discreet exit. Too correct? Perhaps, for some, but not without a certain charm, and above all breeding... (How we do hate that word 'class'!)

A good near-fougère which is clean and fresh without being too soapy. The top notes are quite vivid, fresh, and striking. They lead into a floral-aromatic heart, and the scent then resolves into a mossy, musky and very slightly powdery drydown. I like this one, even if it does resemble a few others, because it is extremely well done. The construction is very careful and balanced; it is complex and shows a superior development. The longevity is moderate, but it does have a decent sillage until it winds down. You can be a little more liberal in application with this if you want it to last longer. A good, solid scent with potential for classic status someday.

A wonderfully complex chypre with the addition of aldehydes. This is mainly floral, but classed sometimes as a spicy oriental because of the base notes. It has a strong green component in the top notes (galbanum) supported by citrus notes and white florals. The heart is iris and narcissus softened by vanilla and spiked with aldehydic notes. The pure perfume has a marked oriental feel, probably put forward by oakmoss, orris root, and musk; moreover, there is remarkable sillage and above average longevity. A Jacques Guerlain classic from the 1930s that still captivates today.

Serge Noire opens with a blast of something camphoraceous, and (maybe it's just me) a bit of body sweat. Then it's cinnamon for a bit, followed by incense and dark, slightly smoky woods. Later, there are hints of labdanum and castoreum. (Yes, maybe that's the slightly sweaty note that gave a nod at the beginning, or was it an unspecified spice note, something like fenugreek? — remember the opening of Santal Blanc?). This scent seems to be made entirely of base notes; nothing of citrus, florals, herbals, or any of the others that typically inhabit the upper levels. In spite of that, this is a winner: dramatic, surprising, yet a bit melancholy in its preponderance of darker tones. I would say it's one of the better recent Serge Lutens offerings.

According to Michael Edwards, this is a woody oriental, but other sources class it a s an oriental fougère; in any case, it has a fairly prominent lavender note, which gives it a distinctly fougère feeling. The opening is very bright and pretty, but gets slightly muddied by the strange combination in the heart notes; one hopes it might have worked better if it had been balanced differently. I think cinnamon and sage is probably a tricky pair to pull off together. The base notes, however, are pure musky oriental, sandalwood and vanilla with musk, giving just a touch of powder. All in all very wearable, it does approach some of the great scents in quality, recalling the feel of Chanel pour Monsieur in some ways, for example.

I find mrclmind's review spot on about Gentleman as to notes and overall composition and development. A word about the mysterious Paul Léger, a perfumer for Firmenich, to whose nose this scent is attributed. As far as I have ever been able to ascertain, he is only otherwise cited as a collaborator with Roger Pellegrino, Raymond Chaillan, and Robert Gonnon in the creation of Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs. Gentleman has a hint of chocolate and smoky woods in the beginning, both charming and elegant; the base is more old-school, not very fresh or modern, which some people consider a bit "old" or dated. But Gentleman remains a great classic chypre, not much worn any more, and so perhaps interesting for those who would seek a touch of class and originality for their urban dandy man-of-the world wardrobe of scents.

An incredible mix of green and woody aromas, with a touch of florals, leather, oakmoss and patchouli. This would qualify as a chypre based on notes, but it's unlike any other chypre I've ever smelled. The mix of green and woody notes is unique to my nose. This is a fragrance that would really shine in cold weather, having enough projection to radiate from the skin without the aid of of warm air temperatures, but it can be worn well in cool weather as well, adjusting the application. Quite a coup for Dominique Preyssas, about whom I unfortunately know very little, except that she designed Le Dandy for d'Orsay, Talisman for Balenciaga, and a couple of men's scents for Jaguar. Definitely worth a sniff if you don't already know it.

This smells more green and hay-like (coumarinic) to me than any of the pyramid notes would suggest, I suppose the green tea and cardamom-usk combination might fool my nose into imagining that. This is a very fine and subtly constructed scent. I think some people are put off by the impression that this is not very tea-like; this is immaterial to me, not being much of a tea scents fan. Edwards calls this a woody-oriental, but it has something of a fougère feel to my nose. I find it to have a moderate sillage for a while, but not an extraordinary longevity. Still, I would rate it a pleasant and nicely constructed scent. I find it somewhat reminiscent of 1998's Fath pour l'Homme (Olivier Gillotin, who also did Cereus No.7 Dior Higher and Higher Black, and the new Ed Hardy Men). I find that same slightly acerbic hay note in pour l'Homme, too; I do think, however, that I find pour l'Homme slightly preferable to this one.

A very strange congeries of notes in this, but it really works as a fresh, invigorating scent for me. Violet and basil with anise and licorice in the top is a bit odd; rum and orgeat (that almond-flavored syrup they mix with fizzy water to make Italian sodas) with sandalwood and tonka is kind of outrageous in the middle; and praline with cedar, vetiver, and vanilla is not entirely unheard of, but pretty rare in the base note. A lot of surprises in this one. Is it a gourmand or a fougère? I think it's a bit of both — but licorice, praline, rum, and orgeat definitely sounds like something to eat and drink to me... The funny thing is that I'm not usually partial to gourmand-type scents, but for this, I'll make an exception. On a nice mild or slightly cool day, this is simply... What? Delicious!

The first impression I get from this is the licorice/anise smell. It's fresh and exciting to my nose. The softness that comes later in the woody and creamy notes is lovely too, but the spicy elements are what make this one for me. The unexpected (and barely noticeable) myrrh note in the base is astringent and bitter enough to keep this from turning too sweet on my skin. There is a bit of resinous aroma there as well. And the cedar and sandalwood make this a characteristically "masculine" spicy woody-oriental. Very nicely done, and very versatile too.

A sand desert in the Sahara (an erg, or 'sea of dunes') stretching from NE Niger into W Chad lends an unlikely name to a mostly floral scent by Paco Rabanne from 1988. Citrus, cassia bark, lavender. rosemary, and other green notes lead off into a heart of florals (carnation, jasmine, lily of the valley, and iris) and green and sweet spicy notes (anise, artemisia, tarragon, and cinnamon) on an amber-leather base (amber, cedar, leather, musk, patchouli, and vetiver). The overall impression is not only green-floral, but also warm and spicy with a touch of animal sweetness. (Oh, didn't I mention honey?) This is a scent that has cruelly been discontinued. I guess at some point, someone decided that guys didn't want to smell so flowery. Hah! What did they know? This is unique, beautiful, even daring — a creation for men not ashamed to be noticed and admired, even for a certain flamboyant style.

Well, this is a rehash of the women's versions with a few tweaks, as other reviewers have mentioned. The biggest difference is that the Infusion d'Iris was an EdP, whereas Infusion d'Homme is an EdT. Perhaps that's where the longevity issue comes in for some people. To me, this scent is a nice warm weather player that could be introduced into the summer lineup. If it wears off after 3-4 hours ( which isa its duration on my skin in tests), I don't much care, It is rather mediocre. On the whole the women's is better, longer lasting , and a little better crafted to my nose. The flanker for men? No earthly reason for it especially when the original was as perfectly unisex as any slightly woody-oriental eau-de-cologne style scent.

Green citrus bergamot, white-floral citrus neroli, green-floral honeysuckle, white-floral lily of the valley, the sweet spice of nutmeg, woody green vetiver, and the new-mown hay note of coumarin from tonka beans. Altogether a woody and green scent with traces of sweet florals and spice, with a dryish edge of coumarin powderiness. Vetiver with a touch of fougère? Yes, but too much vetiver to allow lavender in, so a kind of fougère manquée. Yet J-P Guerlain's instincts were dead-on; the right balance for a softer version of the 1961 Vétiver, if anything even woodier, less harsh, for removing the screen of rougher base notes and revealing more of the vetiver. It's quite nice for men, too — despite the rather sexist name.

Amoureuse is one of four DelRae offerings, all by Michel Roudnitska, the son of Edmond Roudnitska, another nose of some repute. Amoureuse is a kind of chypre, with citrus top and oakmoss base, but it is a little woodier and greener than most floral chypres. Its sojourn on my skin begins with a floral bouquet, slightly sharpened and enlivened by tangerine, and discreetly spiced by cardamom. At the end comes a beautiful accord of cedar, moss, sandalwood, and honey. In the middle of this is a bouquet of white flowers: tuberose, jasmine, and white ginger flower. Apart form the tropical nature of this accord (which reminds me of things I smelled on vacations in the islands of the Pacific), is the unusual blending of white ginger into the mix. This is the beautiful scent of the lily Hedychium coronarium, whose original range is in the Nepalese and Indian Himalayas. How to describe this scent? It's rich, penetrating, with a slightly acerbic edge, and definitely heady. It's not a very common note in perfumery, but it gets some use in "female" scents; however, I think in this accord it can be very sexy on the right man. (Me!)

Woody, rich, deep, with sandalwood and vanilla supported by a strong amber-oakmoss base and reinforced by a fragrant coffee note and a medley of spices in the top note. This scent has great longevity on me and gives off a definite air of sophistication and savoir-faire. It's one of my favorite special occasion scents, and I'll be wearing it to the wedding of a couple of friends today as I watch from the sidelines and sing the tenor part of Mozart's Ave Verum Corpus with the choir.

So we are now engaged in discussing the chauvinism of minor differences. Is this like many other citrus-woody scents? Well, yes! This is a very popular genre, possibly impelled by the desire of many men to smell inoffensive and "light." And yet... Versace pour Homme, while functioning perfectly well within this market niche, is better than almost all the others in a couple of respects. For one thing, it manages to marry a slight aquatic note to the dominant citrus in this while retaining a sense of proportion and good taste — something that can't be said for the vast majority of aquatic-accented fragrances, which let the monster in without then being able to tame it. Secondly, this offering manages to make an interestinmg use of quality notes, among them: a lovely petitgrain that mediates bitter orange leaves; a mild blue heliotrope that bespeaks a floral breath of spring; an elegant and pleasantly winey-floral clary sage note; and a deeper woody note in the form of a gentler oud than one normally finds. This fragrance is definitely no powerhouse, but rather a medium-light warm weather scent that nevertheless has good longevity and decent sillage. If you wanted to do the "citrus-woody inoffensive" dance, this would be the elegant way to choreograph it, with a light hand, but with flair and brisk artistry.

A smooth, warm ambery aoud scent comes right off the top and already contains, in germ, all the notes that follow; but they reveal themselves more and more as the drydown progresses, and shine softly with a mellow light. This has quite a good sillage, and on my skin at least, excellent longevity. Some people say this a scent for intimate moments, and I can see why they think so. It does have a somewhat seductive effect on people who have smelled it on me, although I can't say I was in the market when that occurred. Pity!

A chypre of distinction that has become a classic over the years. I find it a pleasure to wear this on festive occasions, but it even feels good just to wear it to work sometimes. The top notes are dedicated to the citrus clan, the middle to the spices and herbs, and the base notes to the woods, mosses, and roots. This is as it "should be" for men's scents: refreshing, intriguing, grounded. Yet this is a formula that gave a new face to male elegance in its day: lemon, verbena, and petitgrain replace the traditional bergamot for citrus; the base note forgoes patchouli for vetiver — and so it has passed from innovative to classic.

A very pleasant, eau-de-cologne style fragrance, like most of the series. This one is especially nice in the drydown, with a citrus-violet-green-amber vibe that persists rather well. The early stages of the scent tend to be a bit "pushy," by which I mean a little too sharp and slightly lush, perhaps even a bit "feminine" in the conventional parlance. That is brief, however, and really easily tolerable, when you consider where the scent ends up. This is very fresh and green-leafy, nice for warm days and upbeat times.

A refreshing, masculine, tonic fragrance. it is characterized by spicy and green/herbal notes, with citrus and fruit in the top note and a woody-ambery base. I first encountered this scent a few years ago and took it on a trip to Hawaii with me. At that time, I was very struck by the juniper, angelica and spice notes, which along with the citrus, put me very much in mind of gin and tonic. Ever since that time, I have always associated this scent with the Islands and with the cocktail hour. I think these are pretty good associations for a fragrance, so I can't help but think highly of it.

A limited edition, this is a beautiful composition based on mimosa, rose, and jasmine with beeswax absolute and heliotrope. The mimosa's floral note is slightly green, lending a bit of freshness to this rather rich fragrance; the beeswax gives depth and a gently animalic touch, while the heliotrope contributes the gourmand redolence of almonds and cherry pie. It is definitely an opus of elegance and style, deep and reassuring. Ellena's genius for making a great deal of a minimal set of ingredients is amply evident here.

A very fresh woody oriental, I would say, though a little genre-bending is evident here. I like this quite a bit, even though it's not my usual style; I think the freshness and the juxtaposition of acontextual notes is the main reason. It also helps that the persistence of the coriander helps make the drydown amazing. This is especially nice in warmer weather, but anytime I want a bit of a lift, it is a welcome break from heavier, denser concoctions. Simplicity and transparency have their charms.

I used to think I liked Lanvin Arpège pour Homme even better than Dior Homme because it seemed drier to my nose. I think that impression comes from the patchouli in the base of Arpège pH. It seems to make a big difference in the overall feel of the scent. Now, I'm beginning to think that I like them both, but in different ways. the Lanvin does strike me as a bit drier and perhaps more stereotypically masculine than the Dior. But the remarkable thing about both of these is that they brought iris (orris root) back out of exile from men's perfumery; they set the clock back to 16th century Tuscany and made iris a men's note again. That wasn't easy. Others had been trying, mostly niche houses and "edgy" noses. These were the ones that broke through to the larger market.

This is a controversial scent, as you can see from the reviews in Basenotes. It really is a strange scent. I think the quinine note in it is responsible for both the positive and negative reactions. It's not exactly aquatic, but combined with the citrus notes, it makes for a lightly smoky and slightly metallic edge to the top note. I guess this is intrigued some and puts off others. The middle is a somewhat diverse collection of typical heart notes, woods, white floral, tobacco. Where the main interest lies for me is in the base notes: tonka bean, vanilla, and musk make for a bit of powderiness there; but the touch of labdanum and clary sage take it to a different level. On my skin, the powder hangs in the background, but the clary-labdanum win out. When to wear this? Warm weather definitely; when you are in a sunny, optimistic mood, too.

A charming, soft, yet spicy woody-oriental. The distinctive top note is probably mostly the result of combining lavender and betel pepper. The florals in the heart note (geranium, jasmine, and carnation) are sharpened by thyme and enriched by labdanum (an ambery resinoid). The base note anchors all these in cedar, patchouli, vanilla and a touch of leather. The overall impression is somewhat soft, but stimulating and uplifting, which is largely due to the spicy and woody notes. Having said that, it should be added that the floral notes provide a a captivating romantic aspect to the fragrance as well. Great in all weathers, this could be a work fragrance or something to brighten a casual evening engagement. It deserves high marks for its suave, self-assured, warm, and sprightly character.

A very nice blend of herbs and jasmine together with the deep, woody note of patchouli. This is very, very green — deeply and intensely so. The herb bouquet is splendid, especially with the citrus notes. The choice of the somewhat woody-camphoraceous Arabian (or night-blooming) jasmine (Jasminum sambac) for the floral note in this scent is also particularly suited for use with the sharp herbal notes, because this species of jasmine is also spicier, muskier, and more penetrating than either Jasminum officinale or the grandiflorum varieties. The drydown with patchouli in the base also marries well with that standout floral note, and when it mellows, it smooths out beautifully. This is a definite keeper.

A woody oriental of the "old school" that inspires hatred in some and admiration in many others. Opinion is divided on whether this smells "masculine" or "feminine," and that may well show how subjective those notions can be. This is not something I would wear very often; I have to admit that at one stage, it reminds me of the smell of a childhood closet. Well, that's pretty subjective and idiosyncratic, too. Basically, this is a complex blend and ends up being pretty satisfying, especially as far as longevity and sillage go. A snapshot of the past? Maybe that's why it's called Classic.

A bit sweet, a bit powdery, but not too much of either. Others have mentioned that the drydown is awesome, as it indeed is. Personally, I don't find the opening at all taxing to my nose. I enjoy the whole journey. It is a bit dressier than some others, but nothing you couldn't wear on a day off for a little excusion to someplace nice and fun. This may be elegant, but it's far from stodgy!

A chypre of unusually masculine character. In spite of the inclusion of ylang-ylang in the formula, this isn't remotely a stereotypical feminine scent in feeling. It may be the one note that rings false in this chime; it seems out of place with the more herbal floral of lavender, and certainly with eucalyptus and the other herbals. In conjunction with the musk, the sweet floral makes this scent a bit powdery at first, although that impression diminishes after the first twenty minutes or so. Then it blends more smoothly into the rest of the formula and largely loses the powdery aspect. This fragrance took a little getting used to for me, but once past the rough spot, I now like it quite a bit. In the end, it comes out as a slyly suave and even slightly rakish bit of work, the sort of thing to wear when one is in the mood for fun and a little taste of the offbeat in life.

Pepper, Frankincense, Patchouli, Benzoin, Leather, Woods, Orange Peel, Spice, Dry Amber, Vanilla.

Quite remarkable as a woody oriental, with spice and a hint of leather. It is rather dense, complex at first, but ends in a patchouli-oriental-woody drydown. The name suggests the famous carved and lacquered Chinese screens which were transshipped to Europe from treaty ports, such as the British Fort St. George and the French Pondicherry, along the Coromandel Coast of southeastern India (parts of the current states of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu). Apparently there were some such screens at the apartments of Coco Chanel, and according to the firm's blurb, these made her "faint with happiness." I suppose the woods in the fragrance represent the screens, and the patchouli and spices are meant to evoke the mysteries of India. If you ask me, this is one of the best of the Exclusifs de Chanel line.

A leather-chypre slant with a strange, evocative set of notes. Labdanum serves for the leather note in this, with curious companions in the heart note of coffee, frankincense and the surprising floral ylang-ylang. Myrrh in the top (it's usually a base note) with a green, but slightly anise-like tarragon for support. Galbanum in the base (usually a top note) echoes the tarragon, and patchouli and vetiver are just typical of Jean Laporte. The effect is marvelous, even enrapturing (to me, at least); it is rich, with a green undernote that both delights and astonishes, so deftly tucked into a dry woody-oriental-leather scent. Laporte at his best, it is on a par with Santal Noble and Parfum d'Habit for masculine elegance.

Top Notes: Grapefruit, Basil, Bergamot, Galbanum
Middle Notes: Jasmine, Juniper, Heliotrope, Pine
Base Notes: Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Benzoin

I like the top notes in this, and the rest is interesting, but it doesn't quite seem to make a whole. It is a bit on the sweet side, and could use more balance. On the good side, it is fresh and comfortable to wear in warmer weather, if you don't mind the sweetness too much. I have seen pyramids for this that claim jasmine, juniper, heliotrope, and pine in the heart and don't mention vanilla in the base. That's the pyramid I included in this review , from parfyym.pri.ee. Those notes seem to make some sense to me, although I think they would make for more balance and more projection than I get from the juice in the bottle I own. I think this is OK, but I had hoped for greater things from it, so the best I can do is give it a neutral rating.

Citrus-herbal with woody oriental notes of depth and character. Etro has done a very good job on this one. The base notes really work well together, and are responsible for giving this a slightly smoky, mysterious vibe. I think this could work as a daytime scent in cool weather, and as an elegant fragrance for evening dates, especially ones where one wishes to project an air of urbane savoir-faire and coax one's companion to explore an enticing invitation to get to know each other better. The heart note contains karo-karoundé, an "exotic and carnal flower" (osmoz.com) from Africa that figures in a few other scents and lends a real air of mystery, beauty, and sensuality. The incense, opopanax, cedar, patchouli, labdanum, and amber in the base also contribute to making this deliciously deep and rich. Too bad Etro is getting harder to find...

A lot is going on in this one, and while it's very nice, maybe not everything fits. Is this a fougère or an oriental? I can't quite decide; perhaps it's trying to be both. I agree that this uses pretty good ingredients for a designer scent from a smaller house, and while it smells decent, I can't really say I think it's well constructed. The balance seems to be a bit off on the sweet side, and while it packs a good bit of sillage at first, the initial impression breaks down fairly soon and becomes a bit muddy. This is not a bad scent as these things go; it's just that it seems to hold some promise and then doesn't fully meet the expectation. I'll have to go for a neutral on this, although it's fully good enough to wear for everyday work or such routine events.

A very fresh floral oriental with hints of grasses, fruits, woods, spices, and oriental notes. Here is the essence of late spring or summer in search of refreshment from the heat and the consequent languid, muggy afternoons of inactivity. The promise is of a soft and cooling breeze scented by a riverside garden retreat. Ellena has here penciled a minimalist sketch of such a garden, matching everyday and exotic elements in an easy balance over a woody-oriental base suggesting ease and luxury. A very fine scent for the seeker of peaceful respite from stress and ennui.

One of Dior's great men's scents. Relatively unknown for a while, it dropped below the radar until Dior began to offer it more widely for sale again in the U. S. a couple of years ago. This is a woody, leather (and tobacco?) scent with some unusual green notes in the top. Florals in the heart are kept in low profile by the more assertive notes, but are definitely there and eventually revealed for what they are. The base is woody, mossy, leather, a touch of oriental, and the impression of tobacco. I suspect this is a scent made to please a man. Don't think it would appeal much to many women, though they might grudgingly tolerate on a man they really liked...

Parfums d'Orsay
Le Nomade
(2000)
Top Notes: Berries, Cardamom, Coriander
Middle Notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedar
Base Notes: Bergamot, Coriander, Sage, White Musk

This is a spicy, woody scent that seems to be seeking its way, and almost manages to find it. The notes are classic for the genre, and the opening is very effective. Once, I sprayed it on at the gym, and the dude a couple of lockers down asked me if it was Cartier. I have to admit, it does bear a superficial resemblance to Eau de Cartier, especially the Concentrée version, but it doesn't have the legs. I wish this lasted longer on my skin, because the opening notes are so promising, but alas! It misses the boat. It just needs something warmer, perhaps a touch of florals, and some decent projection and reinforcement in the base to keep it going.

Vaguely chypre-like (bergamot in the top, patchouli in the base, but no oakmoss anywhere), this is a pretty good scent. A warm spicy, slightly floral heart with a bit of Japanese influence (yuzu citrus in the head; bamboo and hibawood, a Japanese genus of cypress, in the backnote). The overall impression is: a rather floral start; segué into a fairly spicy heart; soften and round out the spice with deep woody notes for the drydown. The development is good, longevity somewhat above average, sillage very good for the first third to half of the course, then tapering off to more of a skin scent. In my personal universe, this doesn't rival Sud Est, my favorite Romeo Gigli œuvre; still, it proves to me that Gigli hasn't lost its touch!

Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile uses bergamot, orange bloosom, hibiscus, mimosa, and cedar to bring out orris note and to wrap it in the sweetness of white florals. The amber and vanilla base gives this a distinctively floriental bent. I feel it's particularly beautiful in the EdP version.

Jean-Claude Ellena engineered The Different Company's Bois d'Iris in his typical stark, minimalist splendor. Iris joins vetiver and bergamot in the top note; cedar, narcissus and geranium in the heart return to the theme of woods, white floral and rosaceous tones, but in a different modality, making the economy all the more striking; then just simple musk domination in the base. Bois d'Iris is rather stark, and a bit sharp to my nose, and perhaps this is due to the extreme balancing act on such a narrow base; no oriental notes here to round out the iris, and the vetiver gives its slightly sour grassy-woody head note to help throw this into a minor key. A very different iris, but an intriguing one.

A spicy-floral chypre from 1970, this is a heady combination laced with aldehydes and some clary sage in the top notes. Carnation is the head of the floral accord in the heart with jasmine and muguet completing the triad. A chypre base adds musk, coumarin, vetiver, and vanilla for depth and roundness. Some people find this slightly medicinal (I suspect the nutmeg and mace play a role in this impression); others, like me, just find it exotic, like a beautiful face endowed with a strikingly odd nose — but the tones are so warm and rich, the angles and planes are so perfect, the underlying structure so blatantly classical that the beauty of the whole is undeniable.

This would be a classic aromatic fougère if there were oakmoss in the base, but it's close, anyway. It's fresh, upbeat, but rather light, with noticeable, but not very prominent sillage. This is a good scent for an informal day of fun, or for a time when you want to feel energized, but not hyped. I would say this is mellow, but alert; you've got all its attention, and it's got yours.

A woody oriental of some distinction. It is a very smooth scent, and although not entirely linear, the development is somewhat modest. The notes are typical of the genre, with some florals in the heart. The base notes are very characteristic and form quite a solid foundation. In contrast, the top notes are a bit unexpected, with some fairly strong spicy notes to support the citrus and lavender. This is a fine evening scent, but it also does well for a relatively formal event during the day, or just for making one feel elegant and debonair.

Vetiver, tobacco, coriander, cedar. These are the main notes in this classic of Guerlain's golden age of men's fragrances. The best way to wear this is in black tie. Wing collar, cuff links and shirt studs, an impeccable pocket silk. Then the aroma can develop to its full glory, in the surroundings where it feels most at home. This really is an elegant scent, whenever and wherever you wear it.

Flowery, spicy,fruity, aldehydic, musky, woody; this scent is remarkable for its brilliant composition, its juxtaposition of notes that work together beyond expectation. This is the genius of the true nose, to make a scent that works in balance despite odd combinations by gauging exact proportions to achieve a novel effect. Ropion here succeeds in spades, making a rich floral-woody-oriental with subtle marriages of fruit and spice, using apricot to enhance the florals, and clove to reflect the carnation, and then tying it all together with a classic and straightforward woody oriental base note. This is an extraordinarily rich floral, shimmering and complex, with carefully arranged modulations to carry one through the seemingly seamless development in precise order. It's one of the best of an already excellent set in the Éditions de Parfums series.

Strange and a little raspy at first, this eventually sorts out to a very subtly resinous place after passing through some violet-evocative notes. I say "violet-evocative" because this is not the modern take on violet, which is more about violet leaf than it is about the elusive floral violet, which is nearly impossible to distill from the plant and must be hinted at through the use of ionone and other synthetics. The "violet" in this fragrance takes after the floral side in spades. It is well balanced, however, with citrus and other fruity notes in the top, and nicely anchored in a mossy-woody base. This gives the scent the feel of a chypre. It's a fairly deep take on the title player, but then most of the Special Blends are at least somewhat deep and dark. This one, though, does manage to end on a subtler note. It becomes quite soft and elusive at the end. In my book, it's one of the better ones from this series.

I almost like this very much. It is very pleasant in general, but something seems out of place. I think it might be the chamomile in the top notes. Whatever it is makes this smell a little bit (to my nose) like someone's been rolling around in lawn clippings. It never quite disappears, but it does linger less prominently after a while. The rest of the composition is quite beautiful, and has great longevity and decent sillage, too. On the whole, this is a sweet, floral scent of some distinction. When you wear this, you definitely won't smell like just one of the crowd.

A rose scent with a difference; this is made, I believe, as a warm-weather alternative to "bigger" rose fragrances. Pear in the top contributes to a lighter, fresher and fruitier introduction; the heart accord tempers a yellow rose oil and absolute with a lime flower "neroli," and light, green-tinged florals of mimosa and lotus; the base is largely a vegetal musk, ambrette seed, a good fixative with a light touch as well. This is a great daytime wear for hot days and an elegant companion for warm summer nights. Take note: this is a limited edition — a very suave and yet intriguing one.

Woody, spicy, slightly floral, and gourmand all at once, this is an unusual scent. The top is citrus, spice and resin; the heart, white floral-sandalwood accord on a tea and chocolate gourmand center; and the base, with patchouli and the malvaceous seeds of hibiscus, gives an intriguing slant of depth and provides fixation anchoring the whole. This produces an overall feeling of warmth and woodiness as well as a touch of resinous earthiness, both of which enhance the mildly floral central gourmand theme. Very nice for day or evening social occasions, it radiates the right amount of warmth and inviting coziness to set one's companions at ease.

A classic floral oriental, very full as to aroma, and quite satisfying. The floral bouquet is very nicely balanced; also, it has a judicious underpinning of vanilla and vetiver, with a bit of amber and tonka bean. Some noses detect a touch of rose in the heart notes; others don't. This is probably not a scent that most men would want to wear, but I would be game for giving it an outing on my skin in certain "safe" situations: for example, I'll be wearing it to church this time out. It would also do for me on a private or intimate occasion, but not for anything too public or official. Judicious use by males to be encouraged, IMO, if you're up to it.

This is a very woody, yet at the same time lactonic, creamy scent. There is a good deal of spice in this, and some perfumer-arty things like bergamot, moss, and clary sage (very sophisticated and traditional notes). Kashmir wood in the top is backed up by vetiver, cedar and patchouli in the base. The labdanum in the heart gives aid to the creaminess, yet veering off a little toward ambergris, its closest scent equivalent. Tonka and vanilla add an oriental dimension and a roundness to the woody and spicy notes. To me , this is one of the best of the Costume National line; milder, but at the same time more complex, better balanced and more skillfully constructed than the other offerings from that house. This is also an EdP strength. A very welcome addition from Costume National, and a clear demonstration of how good their stuff can be! Kudos to Juliette Karagueuzoglou, the nose responsible for this.

I've got to confess that I love hyacinth, and in this scent the hyacinth is beautiful. Also, I have to say that I don't like melon notes; but in this, the watermelon seems to be there mostly as a "boost" to the hyacinth and lilac. The base notes are woody-oriental, and provide an excellent foil for the florals. A floriental with watermelon... Go figure! I wouldn't have thought I'd like this, but I do. Going on, I thought it a bit feminine, but the green note that haunts the hyacinth and lilac keeps it from going over the edge, and it does mellow out pretty well. In any event, Diptyque sells it as a shared scent, and ultimately, I think they're right about that.

Very much in the classic mold, this is a winner. It is elegant, restrained but not diffident, and it has a quiet confidence and dignity about it that bespeaks its breeding. Patricia de Nicolaï is a grandaughter of Pierre Guerlain, brother of the famous Jacques; perhaps one can see in this that there may be some truth in the Guerlain family mystique. New York is a beauty, a structured composition with a clearly discernible development. It says sophistication and style, but in a timeless mode. I don't think this one can easily be forgotten. Its balance, tenacity, subtle development, and sillage all make it a classic.

Leafy green at first, then figgy-pudding fruity, and finally a round accord of rich wood and coconut. A very nice scent. It seems a bit sharply green at first, but the edge soon wears off to reveal a softer, pulpier fig note. The best is the final drydown, which does last longer than I thought at first. The sillage on this is moderate after the first stage; and while the longevity seems better than the first time I tried it, it still isn't as long-lived as many other scents. Alas, if Diptyque could improve longevity, it would make their offerings much more attractive!

Woody, spicy, oriental. A hint of leather in the base and the civilizing influence of iris in the top. Some people find this a bit sweet, with honey and amber, but I prefer to think of the juniper, cypress, myrrh and patchouli. It seems to me that these balance the sweetness and never really let it dominate the scent overall. This is a bracing scent to me, it keeps me focused and energizes me. While I mostly turn to it in cold weather, it seems perfectly suited for cool summer nights as well. It can make a very nice dressed-up evening scent.

From parfyym.pri.ee, a slightly different take on the pyramid:
Top Notes: Mandarin, Basil, Caraway, Rosewood, Osmanthus
Middle Notes: Lavender, Geranium, Verbena, Jasmine
Base Notes: Vetiver, Musk, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood, Amber, Incense, Benzoin

An aromatic fougère with an unusual caraway top note that makes it smell a little like pepper and a little like dill for the first few minutes. Osmanthus is another unusual top note in this fragrance. After the mildly acerbic top, the heart is a fairly typical floral fougère bouquet, which as usual, features lavender. With tonka bean for the coumarin note (de rigueur for fougères), the base also heavily incorporates oriental notes, giving this a rounder, subtler finish than its start. Very fresh, nice for cool-to-temperate spring days, with which our San Francisco summers abound.

One of the loveliest, gentlest, and most extraordinary of fougères. Lavender and new-mown hay (for the coumarin note) are the backbone, with patchouli for strength and balance and a sandalwood-vanilla combination for the creamy, oriental finish. Wearing Privé is pure joy to the spirit. Uplifting far beyond the average inspiration of scent, this is a work of art characterized by balance, taste, and economy of line rarely paralleled in the recent history of masculine fragrance.

A deep, spicy and herbal impression slowly melts into something more animalic, resiny, and oriental; a strong allusion to chypre construction can't be missed in this scent. The whole seems particularly innovative in the weight of spice and herbals vis-à-vis the chypre theme. The total lack of florals in a chypre is quite striking, really. This is barely balanced at the tipping point, but its audacity gives it the edge it needs to pull off the stunt with panache.

Oh, this is a very odd scent; but who said odd was bad? There is something very unsettling right at the top, and most people seem think that it's the fenugreek. Who am I to disagree? I don't have a better theory. Fortunately, this awkward stage doesn't last forever; eventually Santal Blanc settles down into a spicy, musky iris groove. Then it's fine, but it does lose some of its projection at that stage. It should be obvious by now that this one isn't for everyone. I go back and forth on it, but today I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt.

A citrus bomb with decent staying power. This is nothing terribly creative, but it smells good and satisfies the desire to be fresh and upbeat. The drydown passes out of the bright citrus territory into a more astringent mode before descending into the base notes.

A very green spicy top sets the tone for this revival of the classic chypre style. The innovative stroke here in the green chypre sub-genre is the inclusion of cassia buds to provide a aromatic woody-spicy note in the top. The floral bouquet in the heart is not novel, but seems to me to be remarkably well-balanced. The classic chypre triad bergamot-oakmoss-patchouli gives this a truly classic profile, and the inclusion of sandalwood and vetiver in the base reinforce the woody hint first given in the cassia buds. All in all, very classic, yet satisfyingly updated with a bit of zing. Luca Turin says this is a man's chypre, and I think I agree. At least one woman reviewer on Basenotes does too. By now, the floral accord in the heart would be no surprise in any men's fragrance. I like this for cool to temperate days or summer evenings, but it works pretty well in any weather.

One of the early so-called aromatic (or herbal) fougères. This class of "fern" scents ("fougère" means "fern" in French) traditionally include the trio of oakmoss, clary sage, and coumarin (in this one, that's the tonka bean); they also often include lavender. Jean Martel's take on this cleverly introduced rosemary and laurel. These are both herbal-resinous notes that aid in yielding a much stronger projection than the earlier fougère scents. The rosewood in the top adds a fresh, floral-woody note, and the honey in the base gives some depth, richness, and a bit of animal "sweat." The times were right for this pumped-up version of the fresh, lighter masculine EdT. It was, after all, the era of the muscle car...

Starts off with a saffron, rose, and oud accord and a hint of something mysterious and deep, which eventually reveals itself to be a black truffle note. The rest of the base note is a version of the chypre foundation made slightly oriental by the addition of vanilla. The scent is any thing but linear; eventually, the base notes take over, and in the end the tree moss and vanilla hang out in front, with the ghost of roses and saffron. As with the other Special Blends, the kickoff is much stronger than the ending, but this is by no means a slouch. The unusual ingredients, the novel reference to the chypre genre, and the complex farewell make it a tour de force.

A very fresh and green summery scent. The notes suggested by iMaverick in his review (see below) seem very plausible to me. The first time or two I skin-tested this, it seemed to me that the notes faded very quickly, but more recent testings show it to last longer than I had originally thought. The real reason for getting this, however, is the beautiful accord of the ensemble. The green notes and florals truly do recall, as Luca Turin says in The Guide, the most dramatic moment in the evolution of Pierre Balmain Vent Vert.

A complex and delightful scent and very old-school from the days when only women would have worn such a thing. The top is green, but only slightly; the aldehydes and bergamot are what really come across in the top. Classic floral heart, with the orris root giving a bit of strength and character. A woody-oriental and slightly musky base note finish the picture. To me, this is really reminiscent in tone and feeling of Ténéré (but not really similar), though much less spicy and woody; I think it's the florals in the hearts of both that make for the seeming connection.

Green and semi-fougère (without the coumarin), but very subtle and beautiful. This is a discreet and masculine perfume that is uplifting and energizing because of its cool freshness and green aura. The florals in the heart note are present, but not overwhelming, and the base is mossy-woody with tobacco and oriental touches. This is elegant and open, outgoing, and far from staid; and yet, it gives the impression of decency and uprightness, the mark of an honorable and forthright man.

At first blush, woods and pepper moderated by incense and saffron. This also claims a rhizome called curcuma, which can be (among many other things) turmeric, the spice that gives a yellow color to Indian curries — but I doubt that would be much use to a perfumer; instead, this reminds me of a rhizome I met in Indonesian cookery called 'kencur' (or as it was spelled in the Dutch colonial days there, 'kentjoer'), which is called zedoary in English. It has a slightly bitter but vaguely floral-fruity undertone which I think seems to fit in with what I can detect in 8 88. This is definitely a haunting fragrance, with an air of mystery and exoticism about it. Very engaging, with a touch of floriental in the heart and an amber-patchouli finish. It's quite well-done in the off-beat style so typical of Comme des Garçons.

It's credited to Antoine Lie at the Estonian website parfyym.pri.ee, which lists the following pyramid:
Top Notes: Pepper Wood, Coriander, Curcuma
Middle Notes: Geranium, Incense, Saffron
Base Notes: Amber, Patchouli

A remarkable rose accord that smells like a men's cologne. In his review in The Guide, Luca Turin says this is founded on a base called Animalis™ by Synarome, which he says includes allusions to castoreum and civet. That may well be; or could it be that the list of notes includes cumin to throw us off? Who can say. Anyway, the galbanum and rose (with citrics and spice for reinforcement) in the top note introduce the delicate rose and violet heart and its slightly dirty cumin smudge, and set it all up on a foundation of oriental woods, roots, and amber. The upshot? A slightly puzzled look and the thought : "Why does this guy's cologne remind me of roses?"

Starts off with something jarring, discordant; I think it may be the mint disagreeing with the galbanum. That lasts for a few minutes. In fact, the first time I tried this on my skin, I was very put off by it. After a relatively short time (perhaps 15–20 minutes), however, things start to smooth out and the cypress begins to come out and dominate (or at least tame) the earlier accord. Then the scent becomes quite elegant and manly in a woodsy, musky sort of way, with a touch of the Creed signature ambergris rounding it out and mellowing it; and, voilà, the caper is pulled off smoothly and seemingly effortlessly!

Hermès Hiris is a beautiful take on iris, mediated by Olivia Giacobetti, and even though a lot of lists call it a feminine, I think it is really very gender neutral. The remarkable thing about it is the "carrot" note in it. It used to be, in days of perfumery yore, that carrot was a note used to supplement and complement the orris root's characteristic dark, earthy smell. Coriander, carnation, almond wood, cedar, and honey notes seem to be the best support for the carrot flower accord in this. It's one of the most inventive orris scents out there, and yet it also strongly evokes a classic tone from days gone by.

The pyramid:

Top note: Coriander, Carrots, Ambrette
Middle note: Neroli, Rose, Orris, Hay
Base note: Cedarwood, Almond tree, Vanilla, Honey

A spicy, rose oriental with good sillage and staying power. A bit on the formal side, but not impossible for more casual occasions. The rosewood in the head note is critical here; it sweetens the top and moderates the acidity of the citrus. Also a brilliant touch is the coriander and the vegetable musk of ambrette seed. These two combine with the oriental elements in the base to enliven the central floral note of rose. Very smooth and elegant. One feels debonair when wearing this.

A bit spicy, with nutmeg and the clove overtones of carnation in the heart on a woody-musky base, with opening notes of lavender and citrus. I suppose this all makes a kind of fougère, though with vetiver standing in for a coumarin note and no oakmoss in evidence at all. I like this for its slightly sharp, fresh character. It is satisfying and has decent projection, sillage, and longevity. This is the perfect everyday scent, frank and open, plain-spoken and naturally winsome just as it is.

A spicy fougère with good projection and sillage. This is my favorite of the YSL men's fragrance line. The floral heart is the pivot or fulcrum between the spicy, citrus, and herbal top and the woody, tobacco and coumarin base. A satisfying accord, and for me, on the day after his passing, a fitting way to remember the great designer who lent his name and brand to it.

Pretty mellow, with a kind of fresh, almost fougère kind of quality to it. A little fruity and lactonic at the start, it manages to be spicy and woody and complex in the latter phases. Overall, it seems at first that there's not a lot of development, nor a lot of sillage either. Perhaps this is due to sensory overload. All 68 notes are listed right on the label, but in French, of course!

If you really need to know, here's the Cologne du 68 Complete List, as listed on the label:

1. Bergamot 2. Green Tangerine 3. Lemon 4. Clementine 5. Cedrat 6. Orange 7. Blood Orange 8. Limette 9. Grapefruit Leaf 10. Basil 11. Fennel 12. Star Anise 13. Lavender 14. Bay Laurel 15. Cypress 16. Elemi 17. Thyme 18. Myrtle 19. Bigarade Petitgrain 20. Tangerine Petitgrain 21. Lemon Tree Petitgrain 22. Pear 23. Violet Leaf 24. Ivy Leaf 25. Gentian 26. Sap Note 27. Black Currant 28. Freesia 29. Lily of the Valley 30. Hazelnut Leaf 31. Cyclamen 32. Cardamom 33. Coriander 34. Black Pepper 35. Pink Peppercorn 36. Nutmeg 37. Ginger 38. Frangipani 39. Magnolia Flower 40. Orange Blossom 41. Peony 42. Rose 43. Carnation 44. Ylang-ylang 45. Lychee 46. Fig 47. Blackberry 48. Immortelle Flower 49. Mastic 50. Opoponax 51. Amber 52. Benzoin 53. Vanilla 54. Cistus Labdanum 55. Heliotrope 56. Iris 57. Tonka Bean 58. Sage 59. Musk 60. Patchouli 61. Agarwood 62. Cedar 63. Sandalwood 64. Vetiver 65. Botanical Musc 66. Praline Note 67. Myrrh 68. Lichen

The onrush of notes makes it seem like everything is on stage at once, but the eventual dissipation of the top notes reveals a much spicier scent supported by richer notes of woods, sap, mellow florals, and amber-tobacco accords. The first blast settles into a calmer mood, with a feeling of nonchalance that isn't quite lack of direction, but perhaps a willingness to let things come as they may. A lesson in detachment for the perfumista who wants to pigeonhole scents, this one is far to encyclopedic to permit such a reductionist approach. The only thing to do is to relax and enjoy the ride. Very pleasant on the whole, slightly muted, but quietly distinguished. Cologne du 68 is not straightforward and obvious, but cannot escape notice and appreciation for the attentive nose.

A mélange of green-herbal, spicy, and floral notes on a chypre ground. This is a very fresh, green chypre, however; a substitution of tonka bean for the patchouli in the base could easily have made it a green fougère, and the lavender does lend it that sort of character. This comes only in eau de toilette formulation, which is rather appropriate to the freshness of the composition.

Sous le Vent is French for "leeward," as in the name of the Leeward Islands. The scent was supposedly composed by Jacques Guerlain for Josephine Baker in 1933, for her to apply after her dance performances, which were the rage of Paris at that time.

How can I describe it? Fresh, green, neither feminine nor masculine. I feel it would be suitable for day or night; it would probably be better in warm daytime weather than in cool. It is a bit light-handed to expect much development from it apart from moderate to warm temperature.

The scent starts out very fresh: dry citrus, herbal, very green. It becomes subtly floral, the jasmine not predominating (but boosting the floral side of the lavender a bit); the carnation contributes a clove-like spicy freshness, and then there's some more green. The iris comes on as slightly earthy, but never chases away the green theme; and the woody notes give it depth and a certain roundness. It has a decent sillage and longevity for an EdT, but doesn't project especially far. Hug someone, though, and they're sure to notice.

Overall, the fragrance is refreshing and energizing; I would call it generally subtle (by which I *don't* mean weak); the subtlety is in the art of the blend and in the balance.