Fragrance Reviews by Kaern

Fire up the Quattro!!!

Another 80's powerhouse that smells nice enough, but is totally unwearable in the vein of Van Cleef and Arpels. Elegant? Sophisticated? -- I don't think they equate to 'in your face' and 'heavy' do they? Try Versace L'Homme (1984) instead for refinement and ditch the hipsters with the white belt.

Wore this some years ago now and really enjoyed it's richness and individuality. There is one caveat though -- someone thought i was sucking 'Tunes' (cough lozenges) and I had to agree there is a similarity. The herb notes are maybe too strong and tend to dominate. Definitely worth trying though.

This is what was missing in the original -- some lightness. It's now perfect.

This is the best of the three in the collection by a country mile. Fruity, boozy, sweet and woody all in one, yet sophisticated with it, somehow. I think the juniper is inspired and works really well throughout, enhancing the other notes. Definitely worth seeking out.

This is 'Mechant Loup', but sweeter. Can't detect much vetiver though. Good sillage and lasts well on me. Buy the 4 x 15ml travel set if in stock -- much cheaper. Forgot to mention -- it's very very lovely.

A lovely and honest rendition of sandalwood with a light vanilla + amber added to the drydown. If you are seeking a pure sandalwood fragrance, this is the one, but if you want a rather more complex and spectacular version --'Santal Noble' is the choice. This fragrance nudges Etro's version down to third favourite though. No longevity or sillage problems either -- I'm slowly changing my mind about Creed's edt's.

I actually saw this in Boots (huge chemist chain in the UK) recently, have never seen a Guerlain fragrance in there before, so must be going for the big kill with men now. Tried some on my arm and was pleasantly surprised with the opening citrus notes - no tired formula here, there was a twist of something boozy mixed in and a nice floral accord also - very refreshing and distinctive. The woody drydown is more familiar but still well done. The fragrance is obviously aimed at the 'mass market' for men, but hasn't compromised into generic safety like many others and I think I actually prefer this to some of their more expensive 'challenging' fragrances. Guerlain Homme is very nice indeed and a future investment for sure.

I like it very much although calling it Vetiver is a bit misleading. It has a very fresh and expensive soap aroma to me and does recall old barbers shops -- not a bad thing though. Very late in the drydown something green and woody does show it's hand, but never dominates. I initially sprayed at night and could detect it in the morning, which is usually a good sign regarding longevity -- may need being quite liberal with the application. For a fresh, clean, elegant, spicy and occasionally woody fragrance, it takes some beating. Needs checking out at least.

Purchased this a couple of years ago now and enjoyed it very much although I remember thinking the longevity could have been better. A really lovely melange of warm spices with cardamom and peppers to the fore and a gentle woody drydown. As mentioned before with PIver, the range are great value for money and this is also beautifully packaged with stories of sailing the seven seas for the precious spices hundreds of years ago on the box. So, a history lesson and a smashing fragrance all in one -- top marks.

This is a fleeting incense/wood concoction with weak spicy overtones, but the whole fragrance needs beefing up -- it's diaphonous and short lived. If you want an incense frag go for Messe de Minuit or Passage D'Enfer -- they are far superior.

Loved it from beginning to end. Can't think of another fragrance this good that's similar, which nowadays is a feat in itself. Lovely peppery opening, refreshing green notes and a beautiful woody/incensey finish. There is also another lovely complimentary note, which must be the Karo Karounde flower that makes this so special. It is a challenging fragrance though, so wouldn't blind buy.

Oh dear -- did not like the lavender rendition -- the middle notes bypassed me and wasn't keen on the base note combination. Apart from that......

Best incense based fragrance out there no question -- the combination with the white lily is the masterstroke. Open the gates and let me in.

Straightforward citrusy opening albeit pleasant, which settles down to a musky soapy finish. I've been told that it is a really sexy aroma by others, but I always find that hard to quantify in men's fragrances (I need feedback). There is nothing wrong with Weekend and it is nice to wear occasionally. Longevity and sillage pretty good on me, so good value for money also. Growing fond of it.

I liked this, but apart from the ginger, it isn't a lot different to many others in the smoky/rich sort of line and is playing rather safe I feel. The sillage is a bit shy, unlike Fumerie Turque and Un Cedre, but the longevity is ok. Overall, a bit disappointed in the lack of imagination involved in the creation, but if you are new to the SL line you will probably love it.

I actually was unable to wear this outside. It's just too pungent -- I'm not sure the saffron compliments the rose very well for a skin perfume. It's very pot-pourri -- a lovely smell (for the house maybe). CDG's White has similarities but is much more wearable (i.e. it won't knock you over) and superior in every aspect.

Wore this when it was first launched and liked very much. Very nice soft wood/vetiver fragrance that lasts all day and improves in the drydown when the musk kicks in. Not for harsh vetiver lovers though. Bottle can be doubled for ink when finished also.

I have returned to this fragrance again after purchasing a bottle when it was first launched. I really liked it then and thought it was somewhat unusual with all the spices thrown in along with the sweetness. Not so keen now that I have tried very many others -- it seems a bit simplistic. The musky drydown is very nice though. Would have thumbed up seven years ago, but can't really now.

Give this scent five minutes and you are in for a treat. It's cedarwood essence at best though -- the tuberose dominates along with a lovely sensual amber. The sillage is fine and the longevity outstanding. I think this is now my favourite of the SL range that I have tried. Probably better for cooler months.Beautiful.

This is a lovely rendition of the orange leaf resin with a slightly musky / woody drydown. The value for money aspect forces me to give a neutral though. There are equally superb orange blossom scents out there at a fraction of the price.

Scrub it off? Blimey!
I really think this is rather lovely and the notes work beautifully together -- its a captivating sweet oriental and perfectly ok for men. It lasts all day and the drydown is to die for. This needs checking out.

Didn't really like this when I tested. The top notes were fleeting to say the least and it quickly dived into a rather sharp and harsh leathery mixture. The sillage is pretty big also, so was rather enveloped in it. Not for me.

Really nicely mixed coffee and vanilla fragrance, i.e. not too sweet and cloying and probably the best of this now overused note. Not good for hot weather though, it's more of a comfort scent. Coffee / chocolate -- it's all a bit passe now.

Not a great fan of Cartier fragrances normally, but this one is ok. It's very green and almost vegetal and doesn't change all that much except to soften slightly, which in my opinion improves the scent. It is completely bone dry though and I think I need at least a scintilla of sweetness in fragrances I use now. Not bad.

Sharp as a knife citrus opening that is very ADP, but better and quite beautiful. It then brings in some floral notes quite quickly and that's it. It then remains very linear for the duration. No problems with longevity or sillage. If you like the opening 5-10 minutes--buy it, as you won't find a better rendition.

This is not half as good as the beautiful 'Feu D'Orange Intense' from the same company, but doesn't seem to be listed with Basenotes. FDO has Sicilian Blood Oranges underpinned by vetiver and lasts for ever. I can't find L'Oranger Neroli anymore either.

Kaern

It is a lovely opening citrusy aroma, but is painfully evanescent and barely discernible after a couple of hours, so not really very cost effective if you want to experience all day. Have to thumbs down on that basis alone. For less than half the price you can experience the rather sublime 'Feu D'Orange Intense' - Sicilian blood oranges with a base of vetiver, from L'Occitane and won't have to think about refreshing at all.

Kaern

Lovely for the summer, a perfect rendition of tangerines that really fizzes. It's a bit of a one-trick pony though with no noticeable changes in the dry-down except to soften. Not sure it justifies the big price for the above reason, but have to thumbs-up for it's rendition alone.

Kaern

Is this a default option for men? Come on, you can't use Christmas presents as an excuse for ever. Truly vile. Nuff said.


Kaern

This is unbelievable -- firstly an aquatic + spicy burst (no joke) which quickly changes into a cedary/incensey aroma. Errr, then it's Mechant Loup for a while and then it just bounces all over the place with ginger, star anise popping in and out amongst the deep nuttiness. A liberal spray produces good longevity and sillage on me. This is a very mood driven fragrance I think, but astonishingly brilliant. Becoming hard to find outside L'Artisan stores, but needs to be hunted down for sure.

Kaern

Went in search of Bahiana, but production problems with that forced me to look elsewhere and boy am I glad I came across this gem. Wonderful top notes of jasmin, clementine and grapefruit moving into a jasmin sambac, pepper, sage and patchouli wonderland with the citrus notes still hanging around in the background. Perfect for summer. Beautiful.

Kaern

This one errs on the generic side but the rich christmas cake fruitiness just tips it back. Not normally what I would seek out but the drydown is very acceptable and it definitely has something about it. Women seem to love this more than me -- it is unashamedly masculine. Won't go back to it, but have to thumbs up.

Kaern

If I had to guess blindly what house produced this, I would have gone for Gucci or D&G -- it's so over the top and synthetic with it. Also, I find it incredibly dated for some reason. It wears you down -- with it's heaviness. Nyet -- something wrong here. Pass.

Kaern

Big, boozy opening -- smells very distinctive. It then settles down somewhat to a spicy ambery note, which is not gentle -- heavy sillage also. It does have a rather formal feel and it's one of those fragrances that you either love or hate. I'm of the former choice, but it's not something I would turn to as much as others. Better for cooler months.

Kaern

I'm afraid another OJ non laster and I spray liberally. Also, the scent itself isn't that distinctive -- a citrus burst followed by peppers with a woody base. The peppers in 'Nicole Fahri for men' are far superior though and much cheaper. OJ for men is better, but again, fleeting. It's a lovely little shop with very friendly staff -- it's a shame the fragrances don't match the ambience.

Kaern

Rather over-hyped fragrance imo. It gives off a rather bland so-so spicy, sage-heavy opening, then am unable to identify any different middle notes, especially any aroma resembling coffee (uh?). However, the base has a pretty good leathery finish. If a fragrance could be described as 'snooty' this is it. If you can find cheaper, but not as fashionable, versions that you like, I would go for them. There are much better alternatives in Penhaligon's range -- Castile and Opus for a start.

Kaern

A true and honest rendition of sandalwood, which gradually evolves into a more ambery drydown. Longevity is good although the sillage is a little shy. It is a quite linear fragrance though, which is a little surprising from Etro. If it wasn't for the sublime 'Santal Noble' by MPG this would be at the top of my sandalwood fragrances list.

Kaern

A rather anonymous scent from Hermes -- it's almost as if it has been run through with sugary water. It's a pleasant enough cool, coniferous (pine, cedar) aroma, but lacks any kind of depth or half-decent sillage and is basically bland. A big surprise from Hermes who can usually be relied upon to be at least interesting with their creations, i.e Equipage (valiant but flawed) and Bel-Ami (valiant and not flawed).

Kaern

Had high hopes with this one, but ultimately was disappointed. The opening is a very nicely concocted citrus and herbal mixture, but from then on, I'm not inspired. I am not keen on the overtly 'masculine' lavender that penetrates throughout -- it's slightly musty imo -- I realise the scent formula is old, but it just smells 'old'. The florals and wood that try and poke through later don't really underpin very well, especially the iris. I seem to be the 'party pooper' here and, to be fair, a lot of the notes used are not great favourites of mine -- nevertheless I won't be purchasing.

Kaern

Filao must be a rather fragrant sweet wood -- don't expect a 'Sequoia' here. It actually reminds me a bit of 'Chene' by SL. It almost drifts to the feminine side, but not quite. It's really very nice to wear and lasts a good time on me. Not for strictly wood lovers though, I would think.

Kaern

This is 'Heritage Light' in my opinion and none the worse for that. I don't really get much chocolate although it is there in the background but I do get a citrusy/lemony opening which evolves quickly with a spicy kick (peppers) and a lovely wood note together with another note which I can't quite identify, but helps the fragrance brilliantly. I have re-visited after many years and L'instant is still outstanding. (It puts to shame some of the overpriced, lasts one hour, efforts of Creed's edt's, which are a complete rip-off -millesimes excluded). The sillage and longevity are excellent with L'instant and this fragrance, in either form, should be a pre-requisite in every man's collection. A Joy.

Kaern

The fall from grace after the rather lovely 'Herrera for Men' is egregious. Talk about being populist and chasing the money -- this is a nailed on 'what women like to smell on a man' notion, rather than what men would actually like to wear. It's generic laziness and smells ghastly. Avoid.

Kaern

I am not normally a citrus lover but this is really lovely and the neroli note is beautiful and totally dominant but softened in the drydown by the musk. It is actually nicer than ADP imo. I have just purchased in London, so not discontinued. Superb for summer.

Kaern

Pi feels unfinished to me. I mean, where's the supposed wood?-- what is magnetic wood? It's an inoffensive vanilla and not unpleasant, but doesn't really go anywhere. Bland is the word I am looking for. It doesn't create enough emotion to thumbs down it though.

Kaern

Beautiful and invigorating summer cypress fragrance. It's rather shy in it's sillage though and needs plenty of application -- not sure of longevity yet. If it lasts, it's a keeper for sure.

Kaern

Don't get the Joop comparison at all (thank God). It's vanilla, spice and musk, brilliantly blended, but really fresh also. It's much nicer than the later men's version and I don't have a problem wearing it. Sillage and longevity are excellent. This seems to be a real sleeper and great value for money. Gorgeous!

Kaern

I'm afraid some houses treat their male fragrance buyers with utter contempt, i.e. any old rubbish will do. This is a case in point.

Kaern

It's not groundbreaking or anything and is slightly generic, but not in a pushy, in your face way. This normally would raise alarm bells for me, but the fact is, for some reason -- I love it.

Kaern

Gorgeous leathery floral. It is quite feminine to start with, but give it time and it becomes quite acceptable for men. It lasts and lasts (surprisisng for a Creed). It smells as though it is from another century -- fin de siecle. I've had a bit of a down with Creed fragrances in the past, but I have to accept that this is a masterpiece and worth every penny.

Kaern

Oh Great -- lasts about 2 hours on me, which is par for this House (something should be said), but in this case I'm really pleased because it's a horrible mess -- case closed.

Kaern

Lovely blackberry and musk combination, which is so gentle and precious. I find it quite acceptable for a man to wear. Lasts all day, but sillage is quite low. I should have gone for the extreme version as it is totally enchanting.

Kaern

Rose thief is actually an apt name -- I can't detect a rose scent anywhere. Smells a bit like damp earth though -- if that's what you like. Try Costes or Rossy de Palma for better results re rose. Hugely disappointing.

Kaern

Top- Leather -- Middle-Leather -- Base - Leather/smoke. Nothing really that softens -- amber will just intensify -- this is the edp version. I think you would need to walk through a mist of it to make it tolerable. I can appreciate the innovativeness, but is really much too potent for me and as stated, very linear.

Kaern

Really different -- I don't know of any other fragrance that smells quite like this, which is quite bold of Prada really. I like the way the amber note is mixed into the florals and I don't find it that feminine at all. The women's version is more dark and masculine imo though --- it seems to focus on the leather and amber more. A nice surprise and the longevity is excellent.

Kaern

Not sure why I succumbed to this. I really prefer amber as a supplementary note, not a main dish. I thought it might settle down a bit, but that amber note kept giving plenty and I'm not that keen -- it's a bit jarring and slightly bitter imo. Can't thumbs down it though.

Kaern

Not really a great fan of Chanel fragrances for men --- up to now! This starts very lemony, but gradually dries down to a soft wood & vanilla with the sicilian lemon still hanging on. Must admit I don't get all the notes listed, especially the ginger and amber. It's a work of art though and I really love it.

Kaern

Disappointingly generic and therefore rather uninteresting fragrance aimed at the youth market. No more to say really.

Kaern

Gorgeous lavender/spice opening which quickly settles down to rose. But a beautiful, incensed tinged black rose. Smells similar to the Diptyque rose (Opone, i think), but far superior and easier to wear. A queen in the garden. Stunning!

Kaern

All men should try this at least once. All the attributes of the original, but with a nice woody drydown. Total class.

Kaern

I have changed my mind about this fragrance. It's not really happening for me. After the initial spray, well it's hard to detect anything except maybe a weak peppery aroma. The secret is to wait for hours (it evolves all day) until something really emerges, which is the safraline (basically saffron), coriander and amber, which gives it an incensey feel. The first time I wore it, this was quite strong and heady, but the second time wasn't so. This is CDG's interpretation of what Gold should smell like and there is a metallic note running through it, which I'm not that keen on. Can't thumbs down though because the initial wearing was truly nice. It's a strange one.

Kaern

Errrr -- where's the sandalwood? It's a very leaden, clammy leathery floral on me and just sort of lays there like a lump, not sparking or moving anywhere. If you want sandalwood there are several others that fit the bill much better. I don't like this at all and I find the rest of the Trumper range that I've tested very disappointing (with the honourable exception of Eau de Quinine).

Kaern

Lovely sweet nuttiness -- perfect for colder weather -- very distinctive. Lasts all day on me. It doesn't get much better than this for wood lovers.

Kaern

Sometimes words can't do justice, but that's not very helpful here. This is an absolutely wonderful fragrance. The top notes include Chinese cedarwood and black pepper and they mix magically. More notes as it progresses are patchouli, vervain, violet, bergamot and incense -- it is a heady experience. It reminds me very much of Lanvin's Arpege but with an extra spicy kick generated by the peppers and is altogether superior. I believe that in time, this could be in the top 10 of best ever fragrances ever created -- it's that good. Stunning!

Kaern

It's horrible -- wouldn't even use it as a room spray. Comes on really harsh and synthetic with a sort of sour spice aroma, then settles into vanilla, but still the sourness persists. I suppose you could call it edgy or difficult and I'm all for that sometimes -- but it's just plain unpleasant. Could be used if dropped in hot water and inhaled when you have a cold.

From a House that brought us Live Jazz and M7 Fresh, it's hard to fathom.

Lovely take on orange (with spices) that settles on a bed of sandalwood later (don't really get any musk). It is a truly nice but not groundbreaking fragrance -- longevity and sillage both excellent. On a par with Dunhill (2003) and Edition (found recently gathering dust in Harvey Nicks in the Dunhill accessories concession) imo and better than latest offering (London).

Kaern

Wore this a few years ago and really liked. I remember thinking it was a bit dark and dangerous and that it evolved into this (amber/patchouli) from a fresh citrusy opening. I love fragrances when they move like this (size of the essence molecules?). It's definitely the best male fragrance imo from what is admittedly a pretty moderate range from this House and I will return to it soon, as it still stands up ok in the 2000's.

Kaern

Not sure with this one. I like the warmth of the basenotes, but it takes quite a long time to get there and even then it's a little cloying. I would prefer to wear Cristobal PH, when I'm wanting something sweet and sexy.

Kaern

Teck is available at Harvey Nichols (London) -- 4th Floor -- £45 for 100ml. It is a little old-school, but still smells lovely. Very strong sillage though -- apply carefully. Reminds me very much of one of the Carthusia range (so they copied), but less harsh

Kaern

Sweet oriental that smells lovely, but is a bit powdery and stuffy imo -- also don't get much heliotrope amongst the spices. I can't seem to wear it for too long without getting bored with it and this doesn't happen with fragrances I truly like/love. The 'fraiche' version is preferable but didn't finish the 100ml of that either.

Kaern

Smelt lovely on the tester (soft rich wood) but not so when applied to my skin. It had a sort of greasy sheen and longevity/sillage was poor. Don't see it as feminine at all. It reminded me of Encre Noir by Lalique, which is preferable imo and much better value for money.

Kaern

A bit sharper than Cristobal -- a sort of sweet tobacco with vanilla and yes -- rum. Sillage and longevity both excellent. Very, very nice.

Kaern

A bit boring really -- don't get much leather unless a very sweet suede compensates. It's not unpleasant, just too sweet with not much else happening.

Kaern

Beautiful and uplifting opening. A 'moment of pleasure' hardly does justice. The drydown is a bit scratchy compared to the first half-hour, but the benchmark is very, very high here. Almost a masterpiece.

Kaern

Quite weak throughout all it's stages -- lovely top notes though. It then becomes ephemeral and after 2-3 hours, a barely discernible soft peach. I don't want or should need to re-apply at this price. Actually found a lot of the range disappointing after all the hype heaped. Melograno was nice though (but will it last?)

Kaern

Oh dear -- big recoil from the card. Generic awfulness.

Kaern

Harsher version of Vettiveru on me. I'm surprised it is registered as 'feminine'. Stays all day though and sillage is good -- doesn't soften at all -- also very sexy imo. Cute bottle.

Kaern

Can't escape the foetid note -- there's something rotten or rotting at the heart. If that was taken out it would be gorgeous. Exquisite Corpse.

Kaern

Unnecessarily complicated -- too much going on with these spices -- it's trying too hard. A mess basically, but not altogether unpleasant if in the mood.

Kaern

Astonishing take on Jasmine -- sensual, heady and great sillage. It's a shame, but I don't think I could pull it off -- as it veers towards the feminine just too much.

Kaern

It's said that people have no patience anymore, but I'm certainly not hanging around for this to settle down into something tolerable. Not a patch on Timbuktu, which is like honey compared to this furnace for the nose.

Kaern

Wonderful smooth sweet sandalwood -- the best take on it I have experienced and even better than Etro's Sandalo. The drydown is gorgeous -- enveloping you in an aura of vanilla, amber and wood -- almost magical. Sillage and longevity are excellent for me.

Kaern

It's like being in a very old room or gallery that has lacqeured wood surrounds. Best of the Incense range by a mile.

Kaern

Whoa -- too much for me -- I'm not a fat cat big game hunter. It's a lovely, spicy rich scent but way too powerful and of its time I think -- this will clear a train carriage no problem.

Kaern

Fantastic juice with a lovely dry down. Powerful and icy from beginning to end with a touch of incense thrown in with the rose. Have re-visited twice, but looking for 888 next time.

Kaern

I get mainly mint all the way through with just a hint of florals. It's pleasant enough and I'll use the 30ml I purchased, but won't go back for more. The JM range seems to lack something imo -- maybe depth. What you smell on the card is what you get at the end -- there are no moves I can detect - if you like the initial burst, you'll be fine. The Honeysuckle is lovely for women though.

Kaern

Ummm -- Lemon and Grapefruit -- Lovely and refreshing opening with the mint not far behind gives a nice kick. Really nice for the warmer months and will purchase again along with Bahiana for this summer. Longevity and sillage both good on me.

Is this the same house who produced Opium PH?

Kaern

Big, thick smokey sweetness -- the best from SL that I've tried anyway and there are subtle changes happening on the journey -- variations of silky smokey spices. Really lovely to wear -- longevity excellent on me.

Kaern

Lovely take on heliotrope -- enfolds you in it's warmth. A man could easily pull this off -- I mean the Etro version is 'unisex' and this retails at a third of the price for 100ml. Les Senteurs have it along with a few others from Piver.

Highly recommended!

Kaern

This is one dark sexy beast that keeps giving. Nicest take on amber I have come across. Not groundbreaking, but after previous offerings -- it's like stumbling over a gold bar.

Kaern

There's been a lot of harsh words said about 'Play' elsewhere, but I find the inital citrus burst lovely with the orange/lime mellowing out nicely to a more spicy/citrus drydown. It is probably the most accessible and easy to wear of their range and is not really 'edgy', but the projection is hot, along with the aroma. Lasts all day!

Kaern

It's sweet alright -- don't get any petrol smell though, just a beautiful waft now and again . Lasts forever! I think it's only produced in 100ml now and rumours of it being discontinued are strong.

Indulge!

Kaern

Lovely fresh vetiver cologne with a touch of sweetness. It lasts all day on me with a liberal splash. Really good value also, which is saying something from CDG.