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Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews

This page shows reviews recently added to the site, and is updated once a day. Also find information about the most reviewed fragrances and the members with the most reviews.

Insensé Ultramarine Aromatic Ocean - Evening Dream by Givenchy (2002)


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I wish I would have bought more of this. Simple and fabulous.
25 November 2008


Musk by Renée


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WOW, this is a great scent, really pretty amazing! It is very similar to Musk ravageur but a lot more leather. Additionally, it has less cinnamon in it, however there is still some cinnamon and spice. I really dig this stuff; awesome!
25 November 2008


Kashâya by Kenzo (1994)


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Kashaya suspiciously smells like a twin sister of Lagerfeld's Sun Moon Stars. Did a little search and found out they were both created by perfumer Sophia Grosjman. Guess what else, they were each created in 1994 - or at least launched in '94. Another coincidence is the list of fragrance notes for each:

Kashaya-

Bergamot, Clementine, Apricot, Hyacinth, Wild Rose
Jasmine, YlangYlang, Muguet, Cattleya, Coriander, Plum
Incense, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk

Sun Moon Stars-

Peach, Mandarin, Freesia, Waterlily, White Cloud Rose
Heliotrope, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Narcisse
Sandalwood, Amber, Musk

Hmmmmm, Fruity/Green floral/Rose variation/Indolic whites/Sandalwood-Amber-Musk. Sort of leaves me scratching my head. From reading these fragrance notes my mind would probably never have put them together (as being essentially the same)...but my nose does not lie! They are twins ~ even if fraternal, this discovery is actually disappointing. I do like this fragrance, as well as the Lagerfeld, but will give it a neutral to reflect my attitude about fragrance cloning. I just feel duped.
25 November 2008


1828 by Histoire de Parfums (2001)


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Most fragrances that I would label as fresh, I would unfortunately characterize as generic, synthetic and ultimately boring. Not so with 1828. 1828 is fresh, but I would also describe it as natural, sophisticated and unique. Early mint and eucalyptus dominate and one senses their presence throughout the development. The mint is nicely done; always felt, but not overbearing. Pepper and pine emerge in a subtle manner and in the base a touch of amber. I even received a nice compliment wearing 1828! Definitely worthy of consideration for those looking for a refreshing scent that has class.
25 November 2008


LP No. 9 by Penhaligon's (1998)


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Suave. LP No. 9 flows into being rather than 'opens.' Smooth, not sharp, citrus opening – somewhat opulent, deep and mellow — I find no individual note taking precedent over another — simply an excellent, sophisticated, unified accord. Then, just as smoothly, the heart notes begin to take over from the citruses, and I find myself savoring its mixed spice / herb accord. I can somewhat understand that there is cinnamon and clove and nutmeg in the accord, but again, the composite is presented as a unified and sophisticated package — and that’s what is delivered with grace and elegance. When the warm wood tones of the base move in, the spices simply move over and make room for them—they don’t disappear but rather establish a sophisticated contrast of opposites that interplay with each other’s complementary nature. I must admit that I don’t smell what several of the other reviewers experience. I don’t find an excess of notes – rather I find a counterpointal symphony. I don’t find an excess of clove (a note I am usually oversensivtive to). I also don’t find Love Potion Number Nine so much sensual as graceful, elegant, and sophisticated.
25 November 2008


Bois des Îles by Chanel (1926)


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at the very first meeting it is heavy but after sometime and after wearing a few times it is somehow very tempting. Jasmin vanilla almonds and tonka all make an old rich powdery complex that gives you confidence.
25 November 2008


Ice*Men by Thierry Mugler (2007)


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Core notes: iced coffee accord, nutmeg, patchouli, vanilla

Icemen is the diet version of the classic A*men formula. Imagine a neutered Amen running off its witty charms instead of raw sexual energy.

The opening blast of Icemen is a well rendered "cool iced coffee" accord ... a chilly citrusy effect probably created by cleaning up a grapefruit note mixed in with a coffee note stripped of much of its dense roasted cocoa bean aroma peppered with just a smattering of nutmeg spice to give it a little kick. Nothing aquatic or marine here, just a cool iced coffee latte effect. Slowly the Icemen glacier gravitates to a little floral zone (is it rose? jasmine? Its so tinny, I can't tell) before gradually melting into a light vanilla and patchouli base which together with the coffee overtones echoes the wonderful whackiness of A*Men.

Icemen is far less complex and audacious than A*Men. But I guess its also catering to a different crowd. A crowd that can't stand the "concoction of county fair tackiness" that is A*men. Its A*Men stripped down to its bare essentials, enveloped in a fresh and welcoming summer splash. It will probably get discontinued after a couple of years at most (B*Men is waiting in purgatory..), but thats the price you pay for being a seasonal flanker, no matter how pleasant or conformist ..

Rating: 6.75/10.00
25 November 2008


Opoponax by Santa Maria Novella


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Very, very interesting fragrance. I can't honestly tell you that I know what pure opoponax is supposed to smell like, but I know that I like this. Initially harsh and bitter, it lightens up over about an hour, becoming a musky, rubbery fragrance with a hint at herbal notes if you dig your nose into your skin. There is no sweetness, citrus, or wood accompaniment. Opopnax stays close to the skin, but I have a feeling that it would be more than a skin scent with a healthy application. As mentioned in supermarky's review, this would make an excellent layering component if you need to cut the sweetness off of something. It would also be excellent by itself as a discrete and very different rubbery/herbal fragrance.

I love SMN more with every fragrance I try.
24 November 2008


Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue by Bond No. 9 (2008)


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Creamy fruits, nuts and candy. There's a slight coniferous note in this keeping a few of the sweet notes down but not entirely. Nice scent but nothing outlandish as most of the sweet fruity florals out there.
24 November 2008


Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice by Guerlain (2000)


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The quintessential Christmas fragrance - the fir, pine and spices all add up to give off a dazzling interpretation of the smells of the holidays.

I must admit that I didn't grow up near a forest. But I have Christmas trees in my home during the holidays and I know what a live tree smells like (up close): the resins, the needles, sap. Winter Delice manages to capture that.

It also gives off an almost sour incense resin effect, after a comforting gingerbread accord fades. I think this is what makes it more unisex - and is what I love. But I would not recommend it to someone looking for an incense prominent scent.

To me, Winter Delice is so much more about the wood, the spice and the overall feeling of 'Christmas in a bottle.'

Hurry up and get yourself a bottle - this stuff is discontinued.
24 November 2008


Tam Dao by Diptyque (2003)


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Creamy sandalwood, dry cedar, crisp herbs elegantly put together without the failing of some "woody" fragrances (of either too much cedar so they turn overly sharp, or too much spice, which can make them cloying).

There is the tiniest synthetic off-note in the middle of its development, but it's almost undetectable and in a way and keeps this from being too perfect.

What a stunning antidote to sweet scents and a great unisex offering. I must confess that this review is heavily influenced by the fact that I fell in love immediately and next time I encounter Tam Dao, it's coming home with me.
24 November 2008


Jasmin Noir, by Bulgari (2008)


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Glad to smell Bulgari putting forth a fragrance outside the Fresh or Tea genres! Jasmin, mmmmmmmmm, definitely indolic. A bit dirty and fleshy here in this juice. Sexy. I'm not getting any licorice or almond here, but that's okay. Along with this fine sexy jasmin is tonka. Rich, full, and grounded. The tonka contributes another dimension to this scent, and it's really a nice pairing! Overall, Jasmin Noir reminds me of the indolic orange blossom/night queen flower/tonka combo of Dior's Addict - only simplified. This is the perfect winter jasmin, love the bottle too!
24 November 2008


Nanadebary Classic Pink by Nanadebary (2001)


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Nanadebary Classic Pink + my chemistry = one helluva sexy fragrance. Many years ago, CCB Paris had a wonderful fragrance called Love, Etc. Nanadebary Pink reminds me of this, but Pink is much more elegant. I've tried thousands of perfumes, and owned hundreds more, yet Nanadebary Pink remains outstanding, and rare. According to Nanadebary.com, Pink's notes are Bergamot, Ginger, Jasmine, Iris, Sandalwood, Vanilla, and Musk. The notes themselves aren't unique...but whatever magic the perfumer used in this blend makes it a multi-level olfactory experience. In the beginning of wear, Pink is almost innocent; a pure, clear, soft pink with a hint of sugar. As it develops, it becomes strikingly spicy, and an earthier, adventurous pink steals the show. It makes me crave a huge piece of sourcream frosted carrot cake. This is the part of the fragrance that dominates, and lasts the longest. The drydown is extremely unusual for such a spicy fragrance, because it's slightly astringent, and almost soapy; a glass of pink lemonade after the cake. Sandalwood and jasmine emerge as a soft, graceful woodiness, but the ginger note lingers in the back of my throat, like a memory. According to my fragrance friends, my skin makes fragrances smell "spicy", so the cinnamon-like, nutmeg-like "gingeriness" of Pink winds up being the most outstanding component for me. Nanadebary's recent reformulation of Pink, Classic Pink, is still dedicated to the goddess in every woman, but this tenacious edp format was inspired by the strength of the people who helped to save Nana de Bary's life during a devastating tsunami in Thailand in 2004. Nana de Bary's courage and inspiring tale of survival adds depth and enjoyment to my deep appreciation of this all-natural fragrance.
24 November 2008


Royal English Leather by Creed (1780)


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My one and only Creed, and I'm very happy with it. The leather notes aren't like those in any other fragrance I know of, though they are closest to Knize 10. The initial burst is that of a musky, dirty orange-type note that is balanced with white florals. It's not overtly citrusy, but it clearly has a citrus sharpness. REL dries fairly quickly into a very clean, smooth, and 'fresh' leather accord. There is a chypre-like powderyness/muskiness that balances the strength of the leather accord, and as the orange note fades, what remains is the strong, clean leather base. I find the leather note to be far more realistic, and rich, then that in Creed's Cuir de Russie, which I find to be a leather fragrance that 'hints' at leather as opposed to smelling like leather. REL manages to be clean and stately without being stuffy or only comfortable to wear in formal settings. As it should be, REL lasts on the skin for a long time, and a morning application is still enjoyable upon returning home from work.

In the grand scheme of leather fragrances, REL is near the top. It's more realistic, but less fun, than HL Cuiron. It's not nearly as powerful as PG Cuir d'Iris or as genuine as Knize 10, but it's far more of a true leather fragrance than any of the 'leathery' fragrances such as Bel Ami, Derby, Kelly Caleche, Cuir d'Oranger, or even Cuir Maureque. Within the world of Creeds, this is one of their lower-priced fragrances, and as far as I know it's not one as prone to the ravages of time as other Creeds can be. If you're a fan of leather fragrances you must try this.
24 November 2008


If by Apothia


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If is the epitome of "pretty". It's a very, very light, feminine, gardenia-laden soft floral. I may be slightly anosmic to the musk in this one...because this fragrance almost seem too light on my skin. But it's charming, and superb on hot summer days. To my nose, this is the scent of sweet, gardenia and jasmine petals, enhanced by yuzu rind and green leaves, floating on powdery, oceanic musk. If you are a fan of Mazzolari Marina, Sarah Horowitz Peace Comes From Within, Il Profumo Musc Bleu, or Serge Lutens Clair de Musc, I'll bet you'll like If!
24 November 2008


Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella (2002)


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Definitely one of my all time favorite scents. Huge WOW factor. I first bought a bottle and loved it, but thought it was too strange to wear in public. I was wrong. I get the best compliments on Nostalgia. Women always notice it and tell me how good I smell.

The gasoline and motor oil opening is unusual, but this fragrance evolves quickly into something deep, complex and magnetic. As the drydown unfolds, out comes leather, musk, fine tobacco, and exotic wood notes, the likes of which I've never smelled in a cologne. I also get a bit of hot gummy red cinnamon candy, like those Swedish Fish. The composition of this fragrance is amazing.

If you ever try this one, you have to give it a full day's wearing-- don't judge it on a quick sampling. This is not just some dashed out novelty scent, but rather a well made luxury scent with lots of personality and class. The bottle is a bit ugly, but with a scent this good it's easy to overlook.

This stuff is top gear.
24 November 2008


English Fern by Penhaligon's (1911)


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English Fern is a sharp and yet classy woody-green that, at times, I certainly admire. Unfortunately, there are other times when I’m not in the mood for it, due to its very formal English qualities.

It's definitely worth investigating but I don’t feel compelled to give this one a thumbs up.

24 November 2008


Lyric Rain by Strange Invisible Perfumes (2005)


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Ingenius. Inspired by and named for Dorothy's Parker's morbidly exquisite poem, Lyric Rain is an olfactory deconstruction of the reality of death, and the implications of decomposition. "Oh, let it be a night of lyric rain/And singing breezes when my bell is tolled." Like Parker, this perfume cannot resist wit; and it knows better than to take itself too seriously. True to form for the exceptional Strange Invisible Perfumes, at the beginning of wear, I am damn near compelled to dress in black and roam a moonlit cemetery. Jasmine, patchouli, and lavender create a night spell; I can almost hear echoing footsteps and wisps of Chopin Nocturnes played by raindrops. "I have so loved the rain that I would hold/Last in my ears its friendly, dim refrain." In synch with the poem, Lyric Rain becomes wry, yet bitter, with notes of lotus and pink pepper; "Kinder the busy worms than ever love." Overall, the fragrance creates irony: the scent of old damp leaves, cold night air, moss-covered earth, and yet, somehow, prettiness emerges, like an afterthought; hindsight. "My bed made secret by the leveling showers,/My breast replenishing the weeds above./And you will say of me, "Then has she died?/Perhaps I should have sent a spray of flowers."
24 November 2008


Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's (1872)


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Hammam Bouquet is a stuffy old-fashioned rose scent that intrigues but nothing more. The rather unpleasant drydown is the main problem I have with it.

24 November 2008


Lily & Spice by Penhaligon's (2006)


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A pleasantly fresh lily scent that, unfortunately, failed to move me. It's worth a try, though.

24 November 2008


Madagascar Orchid by Lisa Hoffman (2008)


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Lisa Hoffman's Variations Collections consist of four roll-on perfumes housed in buttery-soft, portable leather pouches. Each bottle is a variation of a scent theme, with individual scents designed to be applied (or layered) throughout the day: 1 ~ Morning 2 ~ Daytime 3 ~ Evening 4 ~ Bedtime. Madagascar Orchid's notes are Jasmine, Orange, Bergamot, Neroli, Pink Peony, Amber and Soft Musk. It's a lovely, elegant skin-scent that takes me to a private olfactory sanctuary. My favorite variation is "Morning" because of it's energizing citrus topnotes, and my second favorite is "Evening" which is sultry, ambery, and golden. All four formulations are beautiful, alone and/or layered, because they smell lush and alive. These scents stay very close to the skin, but their lasting power is excellent. They are completely appropriate for workplaces, nightlife places, and even cramped elevators.
24 November 2008


Sugarwitch by Carnival Wax - Agatha Blois (2008)


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Irresistible! This is a fun, easy-to-wear perfume oil that comes in a cool little leather case. The Carnival Wax fragrance line is designed by ubercool Agatha Blois, who creates custom leather clothing for iconic rock stars. Sugarwitch begins with a note of fresh-squeezed lemon juice, and warms into the smell of sugar cookies baking in an oven. It develops into a tobacco-woody fragrance, but it never looses the vanilla-cake sweetness. If you don't like very sweet fragrances, don't even bother to try this. But if you do, you won't be able to resist it! Lasting power is excellent, and even though the price seems high, there's a lot of product in the bottle, and a little goes a long way. The leather case is weirdly elegant, and perfect for bottle collectors (like me).
24 November 2008


Aphrodisiac by Lumar of Beverly Hills (2006)


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Feminine, romantic, and alluring, I love this seductive white floral. I was drawn to Aphrodisiac in Apothia, initially because of the heady, mysterious tuberose note I smelled in the air. I followed my nose to a counter, where it seemed like everyone in the boutique had been spraying Aphrodisiac onto scent strips. After one sniff on a strip, other fragrances seemed to fade to black. This is mesmerizing: tropical, heady, feminine, and intense. Aphrodisiac is a gorgeous pink-colored fragrance that's as sensual as an island garden in full bloom. It begins as a bright, sparkling rosy floral, but it develops into a temptress, with tuberose, and amber. Top notes:neroli, mimosa, orange blossom, white rose; Middle notes: lily of the valley, tonka, tuberose; Base notes: coffee flower, hibiscus seeds, patchouli, amber. Aphrodisiac is an "easy" scent for me, it's stimulating, and just incredibly pretty - perfect for anytime. If I can't decide which fragrance to wear, I'll reach for Aphrodisiac, confident that it will smell lovely and radiant all day long. This is one of my husband's favorites of all my fragrances; for once, we agree!
24 November 2008


Nani by Saffron James Parfums (2008)


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I was at Apothia the day the lovely Katherine Growney launched Nani. After one sniff I was in love, and I purchased a bottle on the spot. I've always been entranced by the fragrance of jasmine, so I grow several varieties in my garden. My favorite scent of warm summer evenings is that of "jasminum sambac", which is called "Arabian Jasmine" here in California, and "Pikake" in Hawaii. Before my introduction to Nani, I hadn't found a jasmine fragrance that truly captured the intoxicating beauty of the flower's aroma, and smelled good on me. Nani has several layers of moods, and extremely good lasting power. It begins as a fresh, sunny, sweet jasmine, evoking a fresh new lei on a warm morning. As the fragrance develops, it gets headier, and muskier. Eventually Nani becomes the scent of the lei that you've worn throughout the day. As the moon illuminates the white flowers, you place the lei on your nightstand so it will transport tropical sensuality into your dreams. And your dreams are beautiful. Nani is exquisite, and it's become one of my "top five" all-time favorites!
24 November 2008


Diorama by Christian Dior (1949)


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(This review is for the re-issued EdT and not the vintage Diorama).

This is very Routnitska in every possible way. Unfortunately I only smelled the vintage Diorama briefly, so I can't comment or compare on the differences between the vintage and the current version. I understand why reviewers have described this as 'buttery' because of its richness. Overall, it comes off like Diorella on steroids. Specifically, if you took the melon/peach top notes of Diorella, quadrupled the amount of fruit, and then let the fruit get to the point of just being overripe, you'd have the topnotes of Diorama. Likewise with the floral notes. The strength of fruit and floral notes overpower any woody or herbal notes that may be present (which I assume they are, given the fragrances depth, but they aren't clearly discernible), and the effect of this richness is to give the overall fragrance a 'butter' feel. It's almost too intense at first, but dries into an incredibly well balanced, classic fruity/floral.

By today's standards Diorama is on the slightly feminine side of unisex and could easily be worn by a guy. I liked my sample so much I arranged for a bottle purchase from Paris, and it's one of the highlights of my collection.
24 November 2008


Bluebell by Penhaligon's (1978)


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Ughh! This was far too earthy for my liking. I got more earth and plant roots than the bluebell buds themselves. A cold and sterile scent that I can perfectly do without.

24 November 2008


Quercus by Penhaligon's (1996)


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A faint herbal-citrus cologne that doesn't last long. I’d rather spend my hard-earned cash on something else, thanks.

24 November 2008


Violetta by Penhaligon's (1976)


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I’m no expert on violet scents but this is quite excellent.

The opening burst of violets is very green and it stays this way for quite a while. During the drydown, the green notes eventually fade, leaving a light candied violet accord that stays quite close to the skin. It never becomes unnecessarily sweet, and the whole composition smells both very natural and uplifting.

I’ll have to investigate other violet scents before I can reach a final verdict on Violetta. However, for now, it definitely deserves a thumbs up and is now my current favourite from this house.

24 November 2008


Malabah by Penhaligon's (2003)


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I actually like this one but, for an EDP, the longevity is absolutely pitiful. This exotic woody-floral could have been a clear personal favourite from this house but, very much like L’Artisan, they had to spoil it by watering down the composition.

Shame on you, Penhaligons!

24 November 2008


Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's (1902)


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Blenheim Bouquet is a sharp peppery citrus that makes Castille appear flat and lame. Personally, I prefer this one far more but, due to the pine accord, I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I really like it.

A very simple and pleasant composition, regardless.

24 November 2008


Elisabethan Rose by Penhaligon's (1984)


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A lovely tea-rose scent that works far better for me than Hamman Bouquet and smells more contemporary. IMHO, this is more unisex than feminine.

24 November 2008


LP No. 9 by Penhaligon's (1998)


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A faint floral offering that failed to hold my attention for even 10 seconds. As much as I have my reservations for the men’s version, it comes across as a more superior creation than it really is when compared to this lame offering.

24 November 2008


Castile by Penhaligon's (1998)


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Castile is extremely similar to Aqua di Parma. There’s not much more I can add to that, I’m afraid…

24 November 2008


Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's (2005)


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An okay but, largely, faint and non-descript cologne that comes across as one big sissy, when placed amongst other so-called EDTs masquerading around as colognes.

24 November 2008


Elixir by Penhaligon's (2008)


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A very peppery scent that smells like most run-of-the-mill peppery scents. The opening is very ‘in your face’ but that’s as interesting as it gets, with a generic and, erm... peppery... drydown.

Masculine? Why, of course!

24 November 2008


LP No.9 for Men by Penhaligon's (1999)


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I completely agree – this is most certainly a blatant rip-off of Opium pour Homme, albeit lighter with a more prominent clove accord. If Opium pour Homme was too overwhelming for you, LP No.9 would be worth investigating.

24 November 2008


Endymion by Penhaligon's (2003)


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It smells like an early Lynx de-odorant spray (circa mid-1980s) or something of that ilk. You know, the cheap body products (like de-odorant sprays and shower gels) that were always associated with the words blue, cool, horizon and ice…

24 November 2008


Diesel Green Feminine by Diesel (2001)


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As this is still available in discount pharmacies and the like it is worth adding my 2c. Lime cordial. Possibly could be worn to a pre school fairy party with an appropriate pixie hat.
24 November 2008


Paul Smith London for Men by Paul Smith (2004)


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First it smelled like dirty water, but eventually I could smell a poor cousin of lavender ( is that supposed to the the violet?). If I smelled this on a man's shirt I think I would wonder whether he washed often enough.
24 November 2008


Nanadebary Green by Nanadebary (200x)


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GREEN is the perfect name for Nanadebary's spritely fresh fragrance! When it comes to green notes, they seem to run in a very wide range from higher pitched citrus type brights to the lower, deep and resonating bass tones of galbanum & moss. Nanadebary's Green is of the upper register. Opening with a breath of freshness, this one holds onto that high note the whole way through. Gotta love that! It also has a tea like quality, although there aren't any tea notes listed. Upon first whiff I'm instantly reminded of Bulgari's Au The Vert. They have a similar feeling, feature bergamot in their opening phase, and strangely, they also share the note of cardamom! NG ultimately is brighter and more lemony in character than the Bulgari, and overall a bit less complex. If free wheeling freshness is what you're craving, Nanadebary Green just might satisfy.
23 November 2008


Antaeus by Chanel (1981)


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I agree with Caltha and mrclmind on Antaeus. It is an elegant fragrance and reminds me somewhat of "Yatagan light" lol.

Love the opening of sage and the woods are even better. I can see myself wearing this practically anywhere regardless of temperature simply by controlling how much I'd apply. It is a strong,muscular scent with distinction.

So glad I finally got to wear this classic. Huge thumbs up.
23 November 2008


Nasomatto China White by Nasomatto (2008)


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Gualtieri refuses to publish pyramids or discuss the notes that constitute his perfumes; still, they are, for the most part, remarkable for their tenacity and sillage. I suppose that's why people are content to pay his prices without knowing what's in them. I find China White to be oddly floral, powdery, and spicy while keeping a somewhat chemical or medicinal air about it. It's both mysterious and straightforward; by this, I mean it seems quite determined and forthright, yet it is difficult to wrap one's mind around, hard to parse. The upshot is, I like it. Next to Duro, I find it the best of the line so far.
23 November 2008


Havana by Aramis (1994)


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Talk about a cacophony of notes in a protracted opening accord !!! It almost seemed like a fistfight broke out on my skin after I sprayed it on. This screams old school power frag when first applied and it's convoluted enough in the top notes to scare away the feint hearted. All I can say is " WHOA" !!!!!!!!!!!

It took at least 45 minutes for this scent to settle down into something that didn't resemble Maxim's PH on steroids while taking amphetamines. This is a power frag for sure and as masculine as you're going to find.

Others below who like it have said it well enough. I like it as well, however the drydown wasn't as good as I was expecting, given the reviews. It's still good and I probably was expecting the Holy Grail.....and I didn't get that.

Caution to all aquatic lovers and those who abhor the heavy handed 80's and early 90's fragrances; This beast is King of the mountaintop of all that you detest and loathe in formulations that are designed for sensory overload. This juice will kick your ass and won't bother to take your name.
23 November 2008


Ungaro III by Ungaro (1993)


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I finally got to wear the ORIGINAL formulation of Ungaro III and as an owner of Ungaro I & II, I can say this is the best of the 3. Allow me to thank Jeff C for his very generous sample.

While I love Ungaro I's animalic vibe that I seem to get from the wormwood and Ungaro II's terrific fruitiness, Ungaro III is like a few others have said; dark, brooding, woody and rose. This formulation is outstanding.

With all the disparity in the reviews of Ungaro III, there's no question of a drastic reformulation here. Too bad, since all that is available is the newer version and I have no interest in buying that.

foetidus has hit the nail on the head again. Apparently he sampled and wore the original because his description is EXACTLY what I get from Ungaro III. An outstanding scent and a big thumbs up.
23 November 2008


Vol de Nuit by Guerlain (1933)


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Sigh. Undoubtedly a classic, but not for me. I tried the pure parfum--the ingredients and craft are beyond reproach (and it lasts as long as the other Guerlains), but it's just not my thing. I'm no oriental lover, and this definitely comes across as a spicy oriental to me, rather than a dry chypre, as other reviewers have found. I agree that gender distinctions are especially meaningless when it comes to the classic Guerlains. I have tried them all at this point, and my favorite is unquestionably Habit Rouge!

Vol de Nuit is absolutely worth a try. Maybe I will come around to it someday.
22 November 2008


Eau des Baux by L'Occitane (2006)


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Big woods and spices. Cedar and cinnamon and a touch of not-too-sweet vanilla. Lightly smoky with incense. A great fragrance from top to bottom.
22 November 2008


Ferruccio Blue by Tonino Lamborghini


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These notes hold true: lavender is a major player here and the citrus top notes teeter on a heavy base of musk and I think there's some vanilla in here they're not telling us about. Overall, a good citrus and herbal musk.
22 November 2008


Sushi Imperiale by Bois 1920 (2005)


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A citrus alternative to Chanel's Egoiste.
22 November 2008


Arabie by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido (2000)


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Overly sweet and cloying with an odd medicinal accord of over-ripe sugar dates and fig with bitter notes of tonka bean. Too rich for my blood!
22 November 2008


Idol Spirit for Him by American Idol (2004)


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For what it is and for what it's worth, not a bad fragrance. Cheap and good for the kids. Very musky like Mont Blanc Individuel but not fruity, more like a light citrus. But when you get down to it, it's still a gimmick fragrance. Obviously doesn't last long.
22 November 2008


 
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