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Michelyn Camen's New in Niche

New in Niche: June 17th 2008 - By Kilian, Ellie D, Rosine, Fraschini, Aftelier, Nasomatto and Neil Morris

by Michelyn Camen, 17 June 2008

Even though some of the BIG fragrance conglomerates continue to churn out flanker after flanker, or the next  celebrity scent, sales in commercial fragrance are down. Yet, Niche perfumery sales have doubled over the past two years.

Niche fragrance at its best offers what is singular and different. Something you won't find at your local drugstore or department store. The best niche perfumes and perfumers (some are self-taught and some are classically trained) aspire to put their art above all else -- ahead of what the market is offering, ahead of mass distribution and often the bottom line. This bimonthly column will feature only niche fragrances; the distinctive, the hard to find, and the artisanal.

But--- Niche's growth has been so explosive there is danger here too. If a niche fragrance is not remarkable and unusual; if it tries to pass off aromatherapy or elemental smells as fine fragrance, it will become as ubiquitous and as unremarkable as some of the commercial fragrances and lose its relevancy and cache.

Every fragrance presented in this column will be sniffed, spritzed, worn and tested on at least three people, including myself. Why? Because I know chypres turn sour on me, but work beautifully on my friend M. My friend D wears bold heady white florals with aplomb; yet they sometime nauseate me. My friend G has such an interesting chemistry that the oddest, most dissident accords sing on her skin. So each analysis is a composite; niche fragrance at its most thrilling.

Prelude to Love ...invitation ~ By Killian

Prelude to love …invitation is the ‘prequel’ to the L'Oeuvre Noire collection by kilian, introduced last October. I have learned to skim the by kilian press releases, as the Poets Maudits can be distracting, although one knows they inspire his aesthetic. But, there was one word that struck me in the release (Hesperides) and then I spritzed.

The fragrance, composed by perfumer Calice Becker, is a Hesperidian/ Floral, which opens with an explosion of sweet bergamot, orange and lemon accords. Next the heart notes are disclosed; effervescent neroli and orange blossom, with a hint of candied ginger and although it isn't listed -- the smell of the skin of a ripe golden delicious apple.

The golden apple skin aroma brings to mind another take on “Hesperides”. According to Greek mythology, the Trojan prince Paris had to present a golden apple to one of three goddesses. Paris turned down Power and Wisdom for Love. Aphrodite promised him Helen of Sparta and thus began the Trojan War. Paris's ‘prelude to love’ led to one of the bloodiest wars of ancient times.

This is an exceptional fragrance, with a whisper of pepper piercing the heart note; just enough to give it that signature touch of by kilian darkness. Unfortunately, you will have to wait until September for what is a wonderful summer scent.

  • Release Date: September ‘08/ worldwide
  • Price: $225.00 EDP 1.7 oz (refillable)
  • For store information: http://www.bykilian.com/

 

 

Ellie Nuit ~ Ellie D

Jessica Dunne hired the renowned Michel Roudnitska to create her inaugural fragrance--- Ellie, for her new company Ellie D in 2006 (naming the company Ellie D was an ode to her grandmother Eleanor Dunne, who loved classical French perfumery). Ellie has bright, citrusy top notes of bergamot and tangerine, a floral heart of cyclamen, lily of the valley, jasmine, gardenia and rose, to the woody drydown. Unexpected accords of coconut and vanilla created a surprising twist to a not quite traditional white floral.

Ellie D’s newest perfume, Ellie Nuit, just by its name sounded like a more intense version, a ’flanker’ of the original.

NO! This is an entirely different perfume, a woody floral that showcases the talent of Michel Roudnitska. Ellie Nuit opens with the green sap of fig and the wood accords immediately kick in—sandalwood, oakmoss, and cashmere wood. So unexpected, these accords usually appear in the drydown. The heart releases violet, rose and blackcurrant and then, the mysterious drydown, which I wish I could express more eloquently, but it is the smell of my own skin scent enhanced in 3-D. Very subtle, very intriguing, very Roudnitska.

 

Eau Fraiche de Rosine ~ Les Parfums de Rosine

Les Parfums de Rosine, was created by the venerable Parisian fashion designer Paul Poirot in 1911 and many consider it to be the first line of designer fragrances. In 1991, Bernard and Marie-Hélène Rogeon (formerly of Balmain and Givenchy) opened their Paris boutique, Les Parfums de Rosine, and launched new versions of several of Poirot’s fragrances. Marie-Hélène Rogeon loves rose fragrances, and rose absolue is the niche house’s signature accord.

This month, Eau Fraiche de Rosine (perfumer, Francois Robert) debuts just in time to wear during the dog days of summer. More a refreshing citrus/floral cologne than a heady rose perfume, the top notes are citrus, tangerine and a touch of pear. The heart notes are lime tree flowers and lotus, with only a hint of rose essence and rose absolue. The basenotes and drydown is what makes this fragrance interesting; musk and ambrette seeds lend an unusual quality to what might have been just an average citrus/ floral. Wearing Eau Fraiche is like attending a garden party on a warm summer day. After drinking a flute or two of champagne, you may find yourself less likely to complain of the heat.

  • Release Date: June 15, 2008 / Available at Barney’s NY
  • Price: $125/ 3.4 oz

 

Isotta Fraschini Uomo

Over a hundred years ago, Isotta Fraschini Milano was once Italy's biggest full-line hand-made luxury vehicle manufacturer. Now it’s a new company, and has produced a new masculine fougere. Profumo Uomo is the way a man should smell; clean and fresh but a little dark…enigmatic. It plays with the idea of evergreen; top notes are classic --- lemon, bergamot, tarragon and cypress, a bright introduction to its woody cedar and galbanum heart. The contemporary angle is the surprising base notes --- earthy, rich and warm notes of tonka bean, benzoin, storax, sandalwood and vanilla.

 

Parfum Privé ~ Aftelier

Long before we knew we were leaving carbon footprints, and back in the days when drinking bottled water was fashionable, there was Mandy Aftel; owner and self taught perfumer of Aftelier, who pioneered the way for dozens of artisanal perfumers who do not use any synthetics in their fragrances. Many perfumers and corporations eschew this methodology; natural and organic materials are expensive and volatile and at their worst can smell medicinal or off-putting The difficulties of obtaining only the finest ingredients, distilling essences and creating natural fragrances are not deterrents to Aftel’s compositions which disprove the popular belief that natural perfumes (which only are made from pure and natural aromatics including essential oils, absolutes, concretes, CO2 extracts and resins) can not achieve the status of ‘fine fragrance’ when constructed correctly, but are always made by hand. Aftel is also the founder of the Natural Perfumers Guild

Parfum Privé is a departure from Ms. Aftel’s reference fragrances (Tango and Cognac), which are extremely intricate and ‘heavier’. Aftel categorizes Parfum Privé has an oriental/ spice which was inspired by the smell of the night air in Hawaii. The perfume is built around a rare chunk of natural ambergris that Ms. Aftel was able to obtain; she added osmanthus, orange flower absolute, and ambrette seed; all break-the-bank natural essences. If you have never tried a pure essence fragrance, Parfum Privé is quite potent, so you might want to buy the rollerball sample first, which is enough for four applications.

  • Release Date: Available @ www.aftelier.com and at Henri Bendel
  • Price: $125.00 / 2.2 ml, using certified and wild crafted ingredients/Limited Edition

 

 

China White ~ Nasomatto

Nasomatto is an Italian niche perfumery owned by Allesandro Gualtieri, (formerly of Diesel). Gualtieri certainly has no fear of references to narcotics, carnality and addiction in his collection, which includes Narcotic Venus, Absinth, Hindu Grass, and now China White--- a nod to the 80s’ street term for a highly refined form of heroin. China White, (like all Nasomatto fragrances) does not reveal its accords and composition to the public, because Gualtieri would like each wearer to have their own interpretation. On one hand this is annoying, yet liberating at the same time.

So here goes… It’s syrupy sweet and smoky all at once, dry woods, sweet green floral sap, and leather, with a soporific powdery drydown. Yes, floral and powdery… Maybe orris? I am pretty sure there is a rose accord. There must be benzoin (because I like this scent). And you?

  • Release Date: Available @ www.luckyscent.com
  • Price: $148/ 60ml /2 oz., a samples are $4 each

 

The Vault Parfums ~ Neil Morris Fragrances

Neil Morris, the Boston based bespoke perfumer is somewhat of a cult figure amongst ‘perfumistos’ in the USA and amongst Sniffapalooza members. Word of mouth, an outgoing personality; Neil Morris is easily accessible to his fragrant following, and has created a fan base most niche perfumers would covet.

His retail line of eight non gender specific fragrances, which are sold at Takashimaya in New York, wasn’t expansive enough for his customers, so this prolific perfumer who has created and cataloged over a hundred perfumes (bottled memories of his travels and specific events in his life as well as odes to his close friends) launched 50 additional fragrances, referred to as the Vault Parfums exclusively on his website. Samples of all 50 scents are available as well as full bottles.

I saw Neil Morris in April, and like your favorite uncle he always has surprise treats with him. He asked me to experience a fragrance he thought I would like. It was Café, Morris’s interpretation of a memory of the scent of a Paris café in mid September. Accords of Coffee, Green Tea, Chocolate, Pumpkin and Vanilla Cream are blended in this delightful fragrance, which somehow doesn’t smell like a frosted cake. The coffee and green tea are an unexpected combination.

I lived in Paris for a short time and loved to frequent the outdoor cafés, where you can sit for hours on a student’s budget and drink café au lait and chain smoke Gauloises. I don’t think Morris was ever a smoker, because I really miss the smell of cigarette smoke in this fragrance. But it’s not my memory!

As was aforementioned, floral/chypres go sour on my skin. However, Le Parfum, C’est ma Vie, taught me never to make sweeping judgments when it comes to fragrance. The first time I smelled this perfume was last summer, while meeting with Neil and his business partner over decaf cappuccinos at the Hotel Algonquin in NY. Morris describes Le Parfum as “a classic Floral/Aldehyde with a modern twist”. Top notes are listed as Aldehydes and Raspberry; at the heart are Rose Petals, Plum Blossom, Lotus, Narcissus and Peony. The base notes are Amber and Sheer Musk. This scent changes every fifteen minutes on my skin, sweet to powdery and then the turn-on ---- the raspberry, amber and rose petals create a dense ’sweet jam’ that makes Le Parfum so wearable for me. Note: on my friend G and on Morris himself, this does not happen; much more floral on G and aldehydic on Morris.

Many perfume aficionados and perfumers were all abuzz and deeply effected or inspired, when the movie of the novel Perfume: The Story of a Murderer debuted in 2006 (the book was out in 1985). (‘Les Christophes’ coffret for Thierry Mugler was and is the ultimate tribute). Swoon, by Neil Morris takes a single moment of the movie, when the protagonist Grenouille creates a scent that make the entire crowd ‘swoon’.

“I tried to imagine the scent they were all experiencing and Swoon is my tribute to this amazing movie”, Morris explains on his website. Swoon’s top notes are fruity and sweet; at the heart are Tomato Leaf, Philodendron, Dossinia, Jasmine Sambac, Peony, Honeysuckle, Narcissus, and Black Tea. The base notes are captivating and include Oakmoss, Agarwood, Civette, Musk and Patchouli.

The vault has opened; check out what else is inside, especially the Flower for Men series and Le Parfum d’Odette.


Find out what else is New in Niche in two weeks time when Michelyn returns with a new round-up. Contact us here, if you would be interested in your product featuring in this column.end of article
Michelyn Camen

About the author

Michelyn Camen is a New York-based writer and is the former Editorial Director/Fragrance Editor for Beauty News NY and LA, as well as contributor to Access Magazine and a Senior contributor to Sniffapalooza magazine.

Camen is a multi award winning marketing executive and the Founder and President of BrandWidth Consulting Co., which specializes in brand development and positioning for niche and emerging brands. Email: fifthsensenyc@aol.com.

All articles by Michelyn Camen

Categories: , Michelyn Camen's New in Niche, Aftelier, By Kilian, Isotta Fraschini, Les Parfums de Rosine, Nasomatto, Neil Morris Fragrances
 
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