Private Collection Amber Ylang-Ylang (2008)
by Estée Lauder

Less than an hour after sampling the new Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang yesterday at Harrods, I was the proud owner of a 30ml EDP. First let me say to you that even if I don't care about such things, I find AYY very unisex. On me it opens on a great tonka bean/ Play-Doh note. I don't smell any Ylang Ylang and IMHO that's for the better. So don't expect an exotic, warm floral here. No, what you will get is a soft version of Ambre Sultan, without the patchouli ( or at least with much less patchouli). Thought it is not really overpowering, be carefull not to over-spray. Because like most orientals, it lasts and lasts. It's one of those fragrances that lingers several days on cashmere/wooly jumpers and scarves.

After Sensuous, Estée Lauder comes yet again with a wearble, "Serge-Lutens-in-spirit" fragrance. It's like Christopher Shaldrake moved to Lauder instead of Chanel...

Only down-side, but it's really nothing really... just some collector nonsense. I would have wished for a packaging (box) with a different color scheme than Tuberose Gardenia. Brown and gold would have been perfect.

Anyway, bravo to Estée Lauder! This has been a good year!

I nearly had an attack this morning when I sprayed it for the first time, because it reminded me of the feelings I had when I sprayed Coty Wild Musk many years ago. There are definitely some resemblances scent wise, and it is very clear that the EL product is far superior in quality. Still, I got the CWM vibe, and I was completely transported by the AYY in these first moments. Even after about 30 minutes of wearing the frag, I thought--"Maybe I found my CWM replacement!" And believe me, that is no small task.

AYY started with amber, vanilla and light florals, very sweet and mellow. It is not as bright or piercing as the Ylang Ylang would imply. It is round and soft, with the barest hint of spice and musk. But then...after about 30 minutes, I started to get a sharp note that seemed like hairspray. In fact, I got the same hairspray note from CWM, so even at this stage it is doing a classy imitation. I think the hairspray smell is actually the artificial sandalwood that is used in the base, because it intensified and lasted throughout the day. This note is very much like the "molten wood" note in EL Sensuous. Sensuous really dried out on my skin, and AYY behaved similarly. I read reports of how sweet it got in the drydown, so I think for others, the AYY sandalwood note may be better tempered by some sweetness in the base. And speaking of similarities to Sensuous, the spicy note in AYY was much less prominent, but I am sure it is also the same as was used in Sensuous. Longevity wise, AYY lasted all day (2 sprays to each arm), and it wears pretty close to the body, but not so close as to be a skin scent.

I may sound crazy to want a Coty Wild Musk replacement, but the new modern musks really destroyed this scent for me. I was so jazzed about AYY when I first sprayed it, my mind was racing about what specials the EL website might be running (free shipping, etc.). But then...disappointment. It just doesn't hang in with the sweet amber for me. I'll try it again to be sure, but I think my first impression is pretty good. The EL AYY is very nice, very wearable, but also nothing special. The ingredients are obviously high quality, and the prices are reasonable. I even think it will be a popular scent. I am just not sure it can fit into the big shoes that CWM has left behind.