Incense Extrême (2008)
by Tauer

This has similarities to CdG’s Avignon but smells 'cleaner' with an almost cold metallic accord running through it. There's also a very pleasant menthol note, in the topnotes, which gradually fades in the drydown - I very much like this stage. Unfortunately, for a Tauer, its longevity and sillage are disappointingly below average.

Maybe this one needs the summer heat to really blossom (like Serge Lutens’ Gris Clair) but, if this is the case, I’m at a loss as to why it was released in January. Also, even though it uses a high very high percentage of natural frankincense essential oil, the use of the word 'Extreme' is still somewhat misleading because this is not a loud fragrance in the slightest.

In a nutshell, I'm largely disappointed because I was expecting something stronger (and possibly more sensual) than anything from the CdG Incense line. Although the longevity of incense is not necessarily the most tenacious of fragrance notes, I was still expecting Andy to turn the concept on its head.

Incense Extrême is just too timid for my liking.

Incense extrême is described as a minimalist incense with an extreme concentration of frankincense extract, and it is. It's neither a murky church incense like Messe de Minuit, nor as fresh and woody like Incense rosé. Instead it's dry, dry, dry like dust or ashes, with an almost herbal/aromatic spiciness. Tauer describes it as a red scent - I'd describe it as charcoal grey. If it was only smoky/spicy hot it might seem red, but it's somehow hot and metallic cold at the same time, like smoldering ashes someone has poured a bucket of water over. Although it feels strong when first sprayed on, it has zero sillage on my skin (like most incense scents!) and either the lasting power is quite poor or it's the type of scent you easily get anosmic to when you wear it. I think probably the latter - it feels like the type of scent the nose would quickly get tired of, especially with the high concentration of one ingredient.