Iris Nobile (2004)
by Acqua di Parma

Iris? Not so much. Noble? Absolutely.

Sure, I suppose there’s some iris in here, but this is more of a sweet, spicy rose and fruit composition, and anyone expecting something like Hiris, Iris Silver Mist, or Iris Bleu Gris is going to be disappointed. On the other hand, if you disregard the label you’ll discover a beautiful, rich, indolic floral over a dense chypre base. I find it very hard to resist. Granted, part of my delight in this scent may lie in the utter surprise of its content, but I believe myself enough of a cynic that this couldn’t be entirely the case.

Iris does become more prominent as Iris Nobile develops, but never takes center stage. Instead it provides a smooth, plush undercarriage for the spice, fruit, and floral notes. When these subside, they expose a powdery chypre foundation that smells like an extension of the skin itself. Iris Nobile is a tenacious scent that lasts for several hours, and it offers plenty of sillage and projection, so it will not go unnoticed. All in all, an unexpected pleasure.

Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile uses bergamot, orange bloosom, hibiscus, mimosa, and cedar to bring out orris note and to wrap it in the sweetness of white florals. The amber and vanilla base gives this a distinctively floriental bent. I feel it's particularly beautiful in the EdP version.

According to the pyramid, Iris Nobile contains iris petals in the top and heart notes, and the more typical iris root. I completely miss the iris root in the base, but it does smell like iris petals in the top notes. It has that somewhat sharp, light, almost green, accord that could well be supplied by iris petals. The accord is not very odoriferous and it has a rather neutral, delicate aroma, that fits seamlessly in the opening along with a diminutive star anise and some reticent citruses – the whole opening accord is quite delicate and earthy to my nose. The opening presents citrus / cool florals in the process of quietly dissipating their essences in too large of space – the accord gets stretched, and it thins, and becomes more and more distant, but it is there. I find it so quietly, so soothingly beautiful, and it lasts for quite a long time. The switch to the middle notes is gradual. Almost imperceptibly the cool, neutral, airy citrus-florals of the top become a delicate floral-citrus bouquet, with a quiet and unassuming warmth. Yes, it simply transfers from cool to warm – perhaps because of the iris root that I sense rather than smell. In the base, I get a bare minimum of powder, a light woodnote (maybe the iris root), and a bit of vanilla. The essence of this fragrance is beautifully pristine; and in its delicacy, it has a very real sensuality to it. Sophisticated, translucent, and feminine, Iris Nobile with its slightly powdery transparency, and its clean, non-heady floral texture is flecked with random tiny bits of citrus, amber and vanilla. It is so very refined. The longevity is not bad, but it could be better.

I just bought a bottle of this for my daughter. The iris butter at the top and the Vanilla at the base (and all that is in between) make it a lovely blend. It is very creamy, warm, and lasts all day.

Iris Nobile is, as MonkeyManMatt has stated, more about star anise ~ in the opening. With anise being such a love it or hate it type note, your appreciation for this frag will certainly depend upon how you take to star anise! I personally enjoy it, so you can guess I really like Iris Nobile! After the initial blast of anise, the rest of this scent is truly a partnership of orange blossom and iris. The notes waft back and forth from creamy to powdery, and the overall impression is totally feminine. Lightly fresh and slightly sweet, I can't imagine anyone finding IN offensive. Along with Prada's new Infusion d'Iris, Acqua di Parma has produced another winning iris perfume for us to enjoy!

A PERVERSION OF IRIS!

Sweet, over-bearing, awkward. Ladies, steer clear of this stuff; its headache inducing, well, kinda...

To me, it over-plays the natural sweetness of orris, which is usually best complimented by balsamic and bitter-green notes.