Habit Rouge (1965)
by Guerlain

It took me a while to appreciate Habit Rouge, because I think it takes a certain kind of maturity to pull it off. Not necessarily an age thing, it's more about one's demeanor and personal style. A few years ago, I would have been fighting with Habit Rouge, but now a couple of sprays of the EDC under a dress shirt seems to be the crowning touch.

I agree with Asha's description of the notes and feel of Habit Rouge. It does have a bit of an animalic undercurrent that melds into a sweet vanilla base-- much the way L'Artisan's Dzing does. I feel like it does smell "red" for some reason, and red is not everyone's color. Though it doesn't smell of cherries, it evokes the word "cherry" as in the way someone would describe a classic car in mint condition. Habit Rouge is very cherry.

I enjoy what others have called a "crispness" about the EDC. Though Habit Rouge is classified as an oriental, the EDC version is not your usual thick heavy oriental. It's very fresh and citric, with that sweet dusty base which reminds me a little of corn syrup. As it's an EDC, it wears closer to the skin, but I prefer that. I don't like orientals that scream.

The EDT was more powdery than I would have liked, but it's been a while since I tested that and a retest is in order. I'd love to snag a bottle of the EDP, but it's hard to find. I actually find some strange parallels between the EDP and Habit Rouge Legere (which I think is also fantastic). I hear that there is a parfum extrait version out there now as well. Wow.

They don't get any better than this Guerlain classic.

I tried to like this, I really did, but alas this is not for me, too much towards the floral notes. The powdery after notes are feminine for my tastes, possibly when I'm in my senior years I may ave a change of heart.

This review is for Habit Rouge in EDC concentration.

This one starts with citrus and leather--in the citrus, I smell mostly lemon and bergamot, and the leather is the same castoreum-type leather note that I smell in Shalimar and L'Artisan Dzing!, i.e., leather, skin, bandaid, antiseptic, and manure. There is a hint of spice and vanilla, and the citrus has a sort of woody/grassy smell also, sort of like rosewood or citronella. Overall, it smells very clean (in spite of the manure!).

As the citrus burns off, the spice becomes more prominent. Not totally out front, yet, but I think it is cinnamon. The drying citrus also increases in woodyness, and the lemon smells really juicy, like fresh lemon fruit. At this stage, the leather also comes out more, and compliments the spice very well. As time passes, the juicy, fruity part of the citrus fades, but the citrusy-woody note (rosewood) stays (it has a bit of a furniture polish vibe), and the spices increase in strength. The leather has settled into a comfortable place--less like manure, more like newly tanned hide.

More time has passed...the rosewood is still present, the spices and leather are fading. I am relieved that the cinnamon did not turn into the dreaded cinnamon candle wax note that really turns me off. Sweet resins are starting to come out more--vanilla with (probably) benzoin and maybe some sweet myrrh. I suppose the lemony part could also be from frankincense resin. It is definitely getting an "unburned incense" smell which I associate with beads of resin. HR is quite amazing--I am not sure I get the "Shalimar for Men" association I have read elsewhere, but it surely has a family resemblance. I just wish it hadn't gone by so quickly!

At any rate, there have been very few scents that I found full bottle worthy after only one wearing. Usually I go through a small sample, at least 1-2 ml before I decide. But, Habit Rouge is love at first sniff, and it is not an expensive fragrance in the EDC concentration. (PS I bought a full bottle two days later).

Sort of L'Heure Bleue for men. Lots of lemon to start, with an opoponax-powder that strengthens on dry down. Lovers of clear and crisp scents may find this too powdery. Still a very gentle and lovely scent, with touches of leather and floral just under the surface.

Simply one of the best and classy parfumes on the market!

I was in the bank the other day and I was waiting in line. At once, I thought indifferently “A person in front of me is wearing Habit Rouge”. A few seconds later I thought “Hey, wait a minute!!! The person in front of me?! How weird…” Namely, ahead of me was an old woman. She looked pretty normally: She was wearing a very expensive leather jacket and she had a lot of rings on her fingers. I decided to smell her better. I approached to her as close as I could. My nose almost touched her hair. Suddenly, she turned towards me, with an extremely unfriendly mien, and asked me:” What do you want from me, young man?!” This question was the start of the following dialogue.

Me: “Excuse me, missis, are you… possibly… wearing Habit Rouge?”
She: “Am I wearing – what?”
Me: “Habit Rouge, a famous Guerlain’s scent.”
She: “No, I am not, I hate the scents and I never wear them.”
Me: “I see… Thank you.”

A few minutes later…

Me: “Excuse me, missis…”
She: “What do you want now?”
Me: “Can I ask you one more thing?”
She: “If you must…”
Me: “Do you use any kind of preparations… or maybe some body oil… something like that?”
She: “Yes, I use my salve for rheumatism, and before you ask me that – yes, it has a quite strong, funny smell. Would you please now stop with these silly questions?”
Me: “Yes, certainly… Thank you.”

“That is interesting” I thought, “a smell of her salve “in cooperation with” a smell of her leather jacket gave me a smell of Habit Rouge”. So what is the point of this story? Well, it is not necessary for every story to have a point.
And now a more conventional part of this review: Habit Rouge is a classic, woody-oriental scent with a very good strength and a decent longevity. If you give me only two words to describe Habit Rouge, these two words would be “powdery” and “leathery”. If you give me one more word, as a bonus, my choice would be “sweet”.
I did not like it at first. Namely, I had very wrong picture of this scent in my head and a nose that was used to Acqua di Gio and Cool Water. Oh, please, don’t get me wrong: I really have noting against these two scents. They are just very authentic representatives of their (our) era: superficial and commercial. And Habit Rouge… Well, Habit Rouge is something totally different...
It had only my respect at first, now it has my love as well.