
Dior Diorella and Eau Sauvage Comparison Review
Left Arm: Dior Diorella
Right Arm: Dior Eau Sauvage
Eau Sauvage Notes: Lemon, Rosemary, Petitgrain, Basil, Vetiver
On first application, I smell lemon fruit, almost edible, definitely not like lemon household products. It smells like it may have bergamot or some other bitter note to blend with the lemon, maybe even a hint of neroli since there is a bit of floral sweetness. ES is developing quickly, and the lemon is beginning to fade after only a few minutes. It settles in a place that is fresh and light, but a little bit indolic. This could be neroli, or perhaps another indolic floral such as jasmine. Either way, it is a white indolic floral, but is quite faint and it does not detract from the clean sense I get.
After 15 minutes, ES starts to develop into more of a green scent. There is still a hint of citrus, but now it also smells herbal and grassy. The notes list rosemary, basil and vetiver--and I think it is the basil that gives this fragrance its masculine edge. The vetiver provides the dry, almost bitter and grassy quality. The floral note I smelled earlier is really not discernible now, but this green stage does not completely lack in sweetness. In fact, it is quite balanced--sweet, aromatic and a touch bitter.
Diorella Notes: Sicilian Lemon, Peach, Asil, Italian Bergamot, Melon, Green Notes, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Violet, Rose Bud, Carnation, Cyclamen, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Clove, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk, Patchouli.
On first application, I also smell citrus, but it is more of a woody, resinous citrus. It is very mellow and deep. When I inhale, it goes straight to the center of my heart, a sensation I do not get with very many fragrances. I am not sure it is a fair comparison to Eau Sauvage, because I am pretty certain the Diorella is a stronger concentration. Diorella is surpassing Eau Sauvage as far as strength, longevity and interesting progression of notes. The indolic floral in Diorella is much more prominent than in ES. However, it doesn't seem like a floral fragrance, but is rather more like a floral chypre--the sweet fruit and floral is offset by dry, nutty, slightly spicy, woody basenotes.
Now that it has developed a bit, I can smell a boozy overripe or fermented fruit. Could be the melon, but it does seem a bit peachy also. Rose also can get this boozy quality. Either way, it is an "on the verge of going bad" kind of fruit and flower smell that reminds me of Chanel Coco's central rose accord. It also reminds me a little bit of Coco Mademoiselle, although the melon in CM is much cleaner than this. I love this kind of accord as long as it stays slightly edible-drinkable, like how grapes with botrytis fungus make a delicious, syrupy, raisiny, sweet and tart wine.
In "Perfumes the Guide", Turin states that Diorella is a "perfected Eau Sauvage". From the two samples I have, I am not sure I see this, except for a sort of family resemblance. I don't get the "vietnamese beef" accord in either one. To me, Eau Sauvage is a well mannered citrus-floral-herbal cologne. Diorella is a gorgeous, almost edible dessert wine of a fragrance. There is a bit of overlap in the drydown, and it seems that the herbal part of Eau Sauvage combines with a light powdery floral. This tendency is also showing in the drydown of Diorella. But up to this point, they smell like distinctly different, although artistically related, fragrances.
Thoughts about the late drydown...Eau Sauvage is a soft skin scent with a hint of something herbal, probably a light vetiver. Diorella is also a skin scent now, but is fruity and raisiny with a touch of tart melon and a tiny bit of powdery oakmoss. Wearing Diorella all day makes me think that this was the inspiration for Chanel 31 Rue Cambon.