L'Eau de Gouverneur / L'Homme (1993)
by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Fragrance notes
Top: verbena, bergamot, lemon
Mid: clary sage, nutmeg, pepper, clove
Base: cedar, vetiver, tonka, musk
L’Homme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique has a lovely citrusy-aromatic opening. The verbena is well done, with its typical lemon-basil-baked bread notes. This gives a nice transition to the green spice middle, which is an appealing concoction of dusky clary sage and peppery spices. The clove is prominent and gives a brisk and assertive character. L’Homme winds up being as an excellent vetiver/spice/wood scent. Every element develops and interacts in a very satisfying manner. A warming cool-weather scent.

The citrus opening is quite good but extremely short lasting. It disappears quickly because the allspice rising from the heart notes comes on strong very quickly into the opening. This allspice note is balanced with a nutmeg note in an accord that dominates most of the fragrance. It is an engaging accord — it could be looked at as either an extra aromatic nutmeg or a partially grounded cloves; whatever, the combination is addictive. The pepper also contributes to the aromatic abundance of the middle but in a more subtle way than the allspice of the top. The clary sage cools down the excess warmth of the allspice, nutmeg, and pepper, while at the same time, it builds further on to the enchanting spicy accord. The dry down could be stronger, I think, It gets too close to the skin, but it is a very smooth, woody accord — warm and a bit exotic. I’ve tried only seven or eight Comptoir Sud Pacific fragrances, and this is by far my favorite: It is daring; it is refined; it is masculine; it is wearable. It could last longer but it is still a great fragrance.

This Gouverneur seems to be sitting on two chairs. There's a core - a formalish old-shool male cologne, and a shell - CSP's signature sweet tropical spice syrup, and the twain don't exactly meet. Not a bad scent altogether, but there is something synthetic and unfinished about it.

I really like this one and find it very versatile. It is warm and spicy enough for cooler weather, but soft and fresh enough for warmer weather. It's also quite light, which makes it easy to wear in the daytime. All around, a nice scent that won't get too many negative reactions from others but is still distinct enough to keep you from melting into a sea of Allure Homme Sport.

I first tried this during the summer, and was completely under-whelmed by the spice/tropics combination. However, trying it again in the late fall, I am much happier with this scent. Allspice for sure, as well as touches of cumin and a bit of soapy overtones. This is one I will save to buy a bottle of to have in chilly weather to remind me of both the sun and smell of burning leaves.

L'homme is by far my favorite of the CSP offerings. It's a complex combination of white musk, nutmeg, and something vaguely tropical and fruity. I don't really smell any citrus. It has terrific lasting power. It's probably the only fragrance I've tried that manages to contain a strong note of nutmeg without being overwhelmed by the nutmeg.