Boucheron pour Homme (1991)
by Boucheron

Personally, the one note that I dislike above all others is the bitter citrus/lime, and this masterfully blended, uber masculine fragrance, has that note in its very heart. The opening is a harsh citric blast best reminiscent of YSL pour homme's concentrated edition, strong but undeniably masculine. Then the nostril-burning bitter citrus settles in and stays on my skin for at least 3-4 hours, this is the only reason for the neutral rating, because the rest of the fragrance, which lasts for at least 12 hours, has the near to perfect woody-barbershop drydown (the truly perfect base is Jaipur's). I can't say enough about the blending of the notes, I can't pick out the transition from mid to base notes, they flawlessly merge into a perfect harmony. Alas, the bitter note makes this one of the few mini bottles in my collection, and its lack of use makes me unlikely to buy a larger bottle.

Most certainly classy and refined scent, but hardly over-40. Any man with a sense of style and a well-cut suit can wear Boucheron without reservation.

Soapy clean citrus with an intriguing, medicinal and bitter sting in the tail. Has a strong, formal presence with a sort of sexless masculinity if you know what I mean. You don't? Well, it's no good for a night at the disco is what I mean. It's a boardroom and office scent.

Laboratory fresh, synthetic citrus notes compete for dominance with cloying plastic floral accords... yet the distinct undercurrent of tangy, rotting wood seems to remain constant.

As of this writing there are 47 reviews of BpH, two of which give some notice of an important fact: BpH is a chypre. That is a fundamental point to consider when contemplating BpH. For me the opening is a bit dense, but thoroughly masculine. About an hour into wearing it, it turns sour and I find it unpleasant. However, after a time the sourness dissipates and the last several hours are simply wonderful: the heaviness of the opening is gone, and the masculine character remains. Aromatic throughout. For me, it is a bit of a roller coaster ride, so I can’t give it a thumbs up. But it is worthy of consideration, hence my neutral rating.

Ooh, it IS fascinating and involved. Very early it impresses as, yes, a known fragrance, an Old Spice. A fragrance one would expect to smell in the clubhouse or the elevator on the way up to the law firm with a company with only 60+ year old attorneys... but there IS a deeper level to it! I'll admit the lemon thread is a bit chemical, I've enjoyed FAR more soft, natural lemon zest in other fragrances. But the lemon is vertical, it starts early and stays around for the matinee. It's spicy but cool, comfortable and impeccably fresh without the tired "aqua" cliche. It's not Cool Water, it's much more mature, without being geriatric. The drydown is brilliant. Lemon is prominent and surprisingly persistent, with cedar and moss. It's vibrant and zesty without being too sprightly; the mildly spicy edge keeps it regal and proper. Silage is excellent. This will be perfect for business-formal occasions and going out to a nice restaurant with friends.

A fascinating, multi-faceted masterwork, Boucheron PH is a puzzling beast, and watching the reactions it elicits and trying to deconstruct them is fascinating. Is it really a "formal" scent for "over-40" people? Why?

Like many great scents, BPH is timeless. Its concentrated citrus blast is heavily reminiscent of other 60s and 70s citrus screamers like Monsieur Balmain and YSL Pour Home -- both in its philosophy and its execution, although the Boucheron's soapy verbana-laced tones distinguish it from its citrusy brethren. Its aromatic and woody progression is simply wonderful - a cool, velvety journey that just smells great. And it is VERY powerful. The EDP that I own requires only a couple of split-second sprays to make a difference -- and one that lasts the whole day. In spirit (and uncompromising quality level), BPH is almost more Chanel than recent Chanel scents.

I strongly suspect that it is BPH's classic construction, and its elegant, stodgy and almost architectural packaging, that cause most people to think of this as an older person's scent for formal occasions. But you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you pass this one by for those reasons. That said -- if you do like relentlessly modern fruity and gourmandy scents, move along, as this one is the antithesis of that category.